Ben Sherman has been the only brand I've found with good slim fitting shirts. I can't remember the name of the cut since I don't have the tags anymore, but the 98% cotton, 2% elastane one fits nicely and is comfortable. I use the 3L size. From top of iliac crest to armpit I'm 15". Underside of the arm from armpit to wrist bone I'm 22.5". Not sure what the proper measuring standards are, but I have long arms, and I wear my pants on the hips and the 3L still fits fine.
I have a lot of shirts from BR or J.Crew. Most of them had to be taken in at the sides and sleeves. They are making "slim fit" shirts now. I live in Austin TX, it costs me $14-16 a shirt at my local tailor. If it's worth anything must of my clothes have been tailored (I have a thin build) because I hate the bellowing look.
The only problem with these shirts, at least with the white one with the spread collar, is that they are not as wrinkle-free as they claim.
I bought two Geoffrey Beene shirts at a 60% discount, and right now the collars are so stiff they are unwearable. Initially I thought the collars were too tight, but none of my other shirts have a problem and the collars fit the same. Even after washing them a few times, I still get a rash on my neck since it's like rubbing your neck against cardboard all day. I'm going to buy some fabric softener this weekend and soak the collars in it. Glad I didn't pay full price for them...any suggestions on how to soften them up (pound them with a rubber mallet perhaps?).
Today we recieved our Hilditch & Key dress shirts in the slim fit model. According to them, I am the only retailer in the US that has ordered that model. I did post awhile back the specs on these shirts and I will get pics up soon of our fabric selections.
Has anyone tried the bespoke shirt service at Nordstrom yet? When the salesman told me about it, he said shirts start at $145 and go all the way up to $295, which is an amazing price range for bespoke shirts. I think they're made in SE Asia, so i'm not sure what the end product will look like in terms of quality, but he said if you're not satisfied with the shirt they'll allow you to return it.
I've been looking at doing bespoke shirts for a while as I've been really frustrated with finding reasonably priced slim fitting shirts, but with starting prices at $250 and no great recommendations, I've been a bit hesitant.
For my measurements [14.5 neck, 39 chest, 16.5 shoulders, 32.5 arms, 32 waist]
I've also had reasonable luck with:
APC, Band of Outsiders, H&M (slim fit), Nom de Guerre, and almost any Japanese label in medium.
As for alterations, I've got a tailor that only charges $20-28 USD to dart or bring in from the sides and/or tapper arms and shorten sleeves. I don't know why his prices are so low, but his work has been good so far.
In responce to the Nordstroms bespoke service, (i just had my interview there today and got the job) but none the less they told me about their new service for dress shirts and they also offer the same for ties and bow ties. But as far as shirts are concerned they start with a basic body form and add the collar and cuffs and buttons that you prefer and they just end up tailoring it for you and maybe add some monogramming. I really wouldnt consider it a bespoke service, more like a mainstream customization. But from what i saw their work wasnt bad just not as individualistic as i'd hoped.