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adventures in bespoke: Chittleborough & Morgan - Page 4

post #46 of 71
@medtech_expat

If you don't mind my asking, what kind of shape are you in?

C&M have a wonderful silhouette, and I've never seen a suit from them that isn't amazing, but I'm interested to know whether they are good at "building" that shape or whether you really have a 8"-10" drop?

I can't work out whether all their customers are models or they can make anyone look like an Olympian!
post #47 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

+2, but showing no shirt cuffs. I thought you liked showing those.

I always prefer to show some cuff, and this was discussed at length with Joe. All my shirts are from NSM and uniformly show between 1/4-1/2 inches with my NSM coats. Joe's thinking is that since the armholes of his coat are cut a bit higher, that this is pulling up my shirting under the arm. I can either ask Mina for shirts with an additional 1cm sleeve length to wear with my C&M stuff, or I'm thinking to ask Joe to make up a few shirts. All my NSM shirts are soft-collared, so perhaps it makes sense to go with a more formal collar to maintain a similar aesthetic to the C&M gear. Or I can ask Joe to shorten sleeves a touch???

Along those lines, any suggestions for top shirt makers in London? I'm sure there must be threads, but no time to slog through at the moment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhood View Post

@medtech_expat

If you don't mind my asking, what kind of shape are you in?

C&M have a wonderful silhouette, and I've never seen a suit from them that isn't amazing, but I'm interested to know whether they are good at "building" that shape or whether you really have a 8"-10" drop?

I can't work out whether all their customers are models or they can make anyone look like an Olympian!

5'10" 165 lbs. I'm no gym rat but I try to stay in reasonable shape. And my true drop is more like 6"-7". I only have two data points with SR, but with this limited experience I can say that Joe and Michael are to be credited with the shape build.
post #48 of 71
Medtech if you are still in Paris have you considered trying Mary Frittolini for shirts? Apparently she takes appointments in Turin and Paris.

http://www.maryfrittolini.com/il-prodotto/

I'm thinking of trying to make an appointment with her the next time I'm in Paris.
post #49 of 71
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm actually perfectly happy with NSM for my shirts, Mina's construction and handwork is solid and I've had remarkable consistency over ~20 examples; am not really curious to experiment with another Continental maker. My search for an English option is more with regards to aesthetics, perhaps a more formal or structured collar and cuffs to match up with my English suiting (not to mention the sleeve length issue cited above).

So far am planning to look into Dege & Skinner and Sean O'Flynn, and will certainly ask Joe for his recommendations as well. Joe is so meticulous and patient I almost hope they have a resident shirtmaker...
post #50 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by medtech_expat View Post

So far am planning to look into Dege & Skinner and Sean O'Flynn, and will certainly ask Joe for his recommendations as well. Joe is so meticulous and patient I almost hope they have a resident shirtmaker...

Take a look at Budd in addition to D&S. I'm very happy with them.

I met SOF once, and he literally couldn't be bothered to talk to a potential customer. Some messages on the LL also seem to imply that he's simply not worth the cost and effort.
post #51 of 71
Emma Willis or Smyth Gibson for shirts
post #52 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by medtech_expat View Post

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm actually perfectly happy with NSM for my shirts, Mina's construction and handwork is solid and I've had remarkable consistency over ~20 examples; am not really curious to experiment with another Continental maker. My search for an English option is more with regards to aesthetics, perhaps a more formal or structured collar and cuffs to match up with my English suiting (not to mention the sleeve length issue cited above).

So far am planning to look into Dege & Skinner and Sean O'Flynn, and will certainly ask Joe for his recommendations as well. Joe is so meticulous and patient I almost hope they have a resident shirtmaker...

So I guess Charvet is out of the question for you? The ones I've had had a pretty stiff collar actually, at least compared to Mina.
post #53 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

Take a look at Budd in addition to D&S. I'm very happy with them.

I met SOF once, and he literally couldn't be bothered to talk to a potential customer. Some messages on the LL also seem to imply that he's simply not worth the cost and effort.



Just goes to show the disparity in experiences with these individual makers.

I've found Sean a pleasure to deal with. Friendly, accommodating and the quality of his work seems first class.
post #54 of 71
The slings and arrows of being your own brand. If you have a shitty day then you have a shitty brand. Flusser, Ambrossi, Rubinacci have all discovered this at one time or another.

I tend to give people a couple of chances In those circumstances, I might walk in looking to be pampered but for all I know the mans wife might have killed his dog.
post #55 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by medtech_expat View Post

I always prefer to show some cuff, and this was discussed at length with Joe. All my shirts are from NSM and uniformly show between 1/4-1/2 inches with my NSM coats. Joe's thinking is that since the armholes of his coat are cut a bit higher, that this is pulling up my shirting under the arm. I can either ask Mina for shirts with an additional 1cm sleeve length to wear with my C&M stuff, or I'm thinking to ask Joe to make up a few shirts. All my NSM shirts are soft-collared, so perhaps it makes sense to go with a more formal collar to maintain a similar aesthetic to the C&M gear. Or I can ask Joe to shorten sleeves a touch???

Many thanks - very interesting. Love how this has been discussed at length. The armholes do look indeed to have been cut quite high. Your NSM shirts seem to have plenty of sleeve length, so not sure I would want to extend those. The jacket's sleeves look on the longer side, which is perfectly fine, but showing 1/2" cuff underneath may look comical. Does Joe prefer showing no shirt cuff?
post #56 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slippybee View Post

Just goes to show the disparity in experiences with these individual makers.

I've found Sean a pleasure to deal with. Friendly, accommodating and the quality of his work seems first class.

His shirts are very hot and miss..

I had 12 that were perfect, followed by 4 that were dreadful.

He's very nice though, although I don't think he finishes all of the shirts himself, which I believe is the problem...
post #57 of 71

Frankly very very nice

post #58 of 71
The suit looks fantastic! I think ive run into you btw. It was at a NSM fitting in NYC, your hairstyle is a bit distinctive smile.gif. C&M share shop space with steed yeah? was planning on paying edwin a visit in july and would also like to check out C&M
post #59 of 71
Thread Starter 
C&M are at number 12 and are sharing space with G&G until Tony and Dean move to their own premises across the street. Come to think of it, I have seen Steed there during one of my fittings. I can highly recommend a discussion with Joe or Michael; while their house style may be too distinctive for some, their passion for tailoring, style and customer service is immediately evident. Simply a great bunch.
post #60 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by medtech_expat View Post

So far am planning to look into Dege & Skinner and Sean O'Flynn, and will certainly ask Joe for his recommendations as well. Joe is so meticulous and patient I almost hope they have a resident shirtmaker...

Last time I discussed this with him (admittedly, a year ago) he offered some Neapolitan MTM shirts (Emanuele Maffeis?)

Andrey
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