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DiNocera- Tailor shop in Napoli. My shirt and pant buying experience. - Page 2

post #16 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post

Very very nice report as there is not much information about small artisans/shops in Naples. Just one quick question : is the cloth included in these prices you reported ?


Yes- cloth included. 

 

The shirt is Canclini, a decent quality fabric but nothing special.  It's better than my Alumo fabric shirts- very nicely finished and feels great.  It is lighter weight which is great because the heat here is horrible and I run hot anyway. 

 

The pants are made from Ormezzano linen. 

 

While Gennaro's fabric selection is nice, it's not the high level stuff you can get downtown.  I don't think he would be able to sell it to the local folks- just a guess.  I'm sure he would do CMT.

post #17 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

Very impressive. I am planning a trip to Naples in the Fall.
How long would a sport coat take/? I do not particularly
care about hand work except where necessary, eg lapels.
What matter to me is the cut I want- not NSM house style.
And of course the fabric. Could this be accomplished in a week?
Thanks.


I spoke with Gennaro (through my friend- my Italian sucks) and he said he could do 2 fittings for a shirt in a week and then ship the finished shirt.  I am not really sure if he can handle a coat in that time.  Since he outsources everything I don't think he can get the quick turn-arounds you can get from the bigger places downtown.

 

If you are interested I can ask him and do my best to help you out.  And it would help him if I can get him a little business too- times are tough.

post #18 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tumbler View Post

Thanks for sharing. The shirt looks great. I love the shape of the cuffs.


Are you referring to the convertible nature of the cuff or the mitered corners?  I'd like to get some second opinions on these two choices.  I have never had a convertible cuff but I think it could be pretty handy.  Also, I have a couple of shirts with a mitered cuff and I like them- but I know there is a little kick-back here on SF when it comes to the mitered look.  I happen to like it because it breaks up the monotony of the rest of my shirts. 

post #19 of 89

These trousers look fantastic!

 

Would you mind posting a picture of you wearing the shirt?
 

post #20 of 89
Thread Starter 

OK, here are a few shots- just out of the box and not washed.

 

I can see a few things that will need to be adjusted for the final fitting.  There is some extra fabric behind the neck on the rear placket and the sleeves could be about 1/3 inch shorter- but I will wash and wear 3-4 times as instructed and then go back. 

 

It fits more loosely than the prova, which tells me that he left a little room to play because you can't add fabric, but you can take it away.  I have a weird body- long torso and big shoulders and belly, which is why I have to get shirts made.

 

I do like the way the shirt moves, the armholes are well placed and I do like to have a bit of room in the belly area because I'm 40 and not getting any slimmer.  I like the abdomen how it is because I can sit and not have the buttons pull, but I think he may want to pull some fabric at the armpit/ribcage. 

 


Edited by AmericanGent - 6/2/13 at 2:55am
post #21 of 89
Looks fantastic.
post #22 of 89

Looks great, I'd probably go for slightly wider cuffs since I sometimes wear larger watches.

post #23 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clapeyron View Post

Looks great, I'd probably go for slightly wider cuffs since I sometimes wear larger watches.

Thank you clapeyron,


My left cuff has been made a touch wider to accommodate my watch.  My daily beater watch is a thin Skagen- so it's not a big difference, but in my fittings with both Anna Matuozzo and Cosimo they have asked me which arm I wear my watch and how large it is.  Standard practice maybe? 

 

I'm not wearing my watch in these pictures - because it was Sunday morning and I was wearing PJ's and having my morning cafe about 5 min prior. 

 

Do you think that there is too much fabric near my moobs?  That's what I see in these pics- but the shirt feels great and has a great range of motion, so I'm not sure if it should be messed with.

post #24 of 89
You have to launder it a few times to see how it shrinks before you can judge the fit. BTW you should show him (the store proprietor) the shirt for his opinion. That is what you pay him for. What you learn from these interactions go to determine how good he is.
post #25 of 89

thanks, great post. I'm surprised he told you he can only do 2 suits a month (@ 1K a pop)...how do you make a living and have such a nice boutique (saw their web site) with 2 suits made per month???

I'm planning a trip in Naples and would consider them but not at a pace of 2 suits/month, they'd probably have a huge backlog.

post #26 of 89
Thread Starter 

He said can only do 2 fully bespoke, hand sewn suits a month I believe.  He also does machine sewn with hand finishing.  I will ask for clarification.   

If you would like to get more details on this I'd be glad to ask him for you.  Let me know what timeline you are working with and I'll ask if he can do it. 

I'll just have to use my iPad and Bing Translate to make sure I get it right. 

post #27 of 89
Thread Starter 

To everyone who is reading and considering using Gennaro- I just want to make it clear that I have no business affiliation with him or any other tailor in Napoli.

 

If I offer to help anyone it is just that...being helpful.  I'd like other SF members to get a good deal and of course I'd like to see Gennaro get some business so he will be able to stay open and make more shirts for me... but I stand to gain nothing. 

 

Just wanted to be clear about that. 

 

If any of you are coming to Napoli feel free to PM me I will try to hook you up however I can.  I can meet you and show you the shops I know of, etc.  I am always glad to get into the city and visit tailors and men's clothing shops! 

post #28 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanGent View Post

To everyone who is reading and considering using Gennaro- I just want to make it clear that I have no business affiliation with him or any other tailor in Napoli.

 

If I offer to help anyone it is just that...being helpful.  I'd like other SF members to get a good deal and of course I'd like to see Gennaro get some business so he will be able to stay open and make more shirts for me... but I stand to gain nothing. 

 

Just wanted to be clear about that. 

 

If any of you are coming to Napoli feel free to PM me I will try to hook you up however I can.  I can meet you and show you the shops I know of, etc.  I am always glad to get into the city and visit tailors and men's clothing shops! 

that is very kind of you, thank you.

 

I will take you up on your offer when I come during the summer!

post #29 of 89
I just wanted to add that I really hope newer, similarly real-world-sized members take note of your post - you can be less than model skinny and still look great if you get clothes that fit you well. That doesn't necessarily mean bespoke (though it probably doesn't hurt) it means finding and developing a rapport with a tailor that works well for you.

Congrats to AmericanGent for scoring a great local resource that seems to be playing out well for him, but here's hoping others who may be challenged and frustrated see this and take heart - this is looking damn good and, yes, you can do it too; even if you're like me and can't make it to Napoli.

AmericanGent: I'm playing off your willingness and openness in dealing with reality and hoping it's not lost on others, I'm not picking on you (if it helps, I'm still clinging on to a 33w but the real world is catching up with me and a set of moobs are prob in my future too).
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanGent View Post

OK, here are a few shots- just out of the box and not washed.

I can see a few things that will need to be adjusted for the final fitting.  There is some extra fabric behind the neck on the rear placket and the sleeves could be about 1/3 inch shorter- but I will wash and wear 3-4 times as instructed and then go back. 

It fits more loosely than the prova, which tells me that he left a little room to play because you can't add fabric, but you can take it away.  I have a weird body- long torso and big shoulders and belly, which is why I have to get shirts made.

I do like the way the shirt moves, the armholes are well placed and I do like to have a bit of room in the belly area because I'm 40 and not getting any slimmer.  I like the abdomen how it is because I can sit and not have the buttons pull, but I think he may want to pull some fabric at the armpit/ribcage. 








post #30 of 89
This is a great thread. Thanks for posting.
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