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A couple of questions on suit w/ or w/o tie, tie w/ or w/o jacket, button closed or not etc

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Have been chasing after designers' items, such as Rick Owens, Julius, CCP, etc, for years. Recently, in pursuing to make a "better" besope suits (used to be a customer of cheap bespoke or better classified as half MTO/bespoke), I spent 2 months reading intentively in the Classic forum here. Learnt a great deal of knowledge in classic wear here. Suddenly feel an urge to transform to dress in a more "grown up" way. (no offense to designers' items, just a personal feel that I am too old for RO look, etc). Thanks guys for the fruitful discussion here.

My questions:

i) I want to know your preference on the setting below. Reason is that all of them are resonably common in my workplace. But I also read someone mentioned in this forum (or AAAC I can't recall) that jacket should always come with tie and vice versa. So, with the aim of dressing just one level better than the crowd, I wanna get some insight on the "proper" way of dressing:

A) Suit (navy, gray, etc) and tieless
B) Casual suit (casual in frabic, or lighter in color, e.g. ligh gray and Khaki) and tieless
C) odd jacket and tieless
D) jacketless with tie

P.S. I think black suit should always come with tie. So, this is out of question.

Aesthetically, I can accept A to C, but not D. Your inputs please.

ii) When you are wearing a suit or odd jacket, do you always close the top button (assume 2 buttons) when you walk/ stand?

iii) One more question - do you consider no-break or slight break more suitable for business suit or casual look?

thanks!
post #2 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by obama View Post

Have been chasing after designers' items, such as Rick Owens, Julius, CCP, etc, for years. Recently, in pursuing to make a "better" besope suits (used to be a customer of cheap bespoke or better classified as half MTO/bespoke), I spent 2 months reading intentively in the Classic forum here. Learnt a great deal of knowledge in classic wear here. Suddenly feel an urge to transform to dress in a more "grown up" way. (no offense to designers' items, just a personal feel that I am too old for RO look, etc). Thanks guys for the fruitful discussion here.

My questions:

i) I want to know your preference on the setting below. Reason is that all of them are resonably common in my workplace. But I also read someone mentioned in this forum (or AAAC I can't recall) that jacket should always come with tie and vice versa. So, with the aim of dressing just one level better than the crowd, I wanna get some insight on the "proper" way of dressing:

A) Suit (navy, gray, etc) and tieless
B) Casual suit (casual in frabic, or lighter in color, e.g. ligh gray and Khaki) and tieless
C) odd jacket and tieless
D) jacketless with tie

P.S. I think black suit should always come with tie. So, this is out of question.

Aesthetically, I can accept A to C, but not D. Your inputs please.

ii) When you are wearing a suit or odd jacket, do you always close the top button (assume 2 buttons) when you walk/ stand?

iii) One more question - do you consider no-break or slight break more suitable for business suit or casual look?

thanks!


Firstly there is no MTO/Bespoke, i think you mean somewhere between MTM and Bespoke. In MTO they dont take your measurements just think of it as if you went into a store saw a suit that fit you but you didnt like the color so you ordered it in another fabric hence the term "made to order". MTM they will use your measurements and apply it to a stock pattern that the tailor/brand already carries I.E if i went into Brioni and they took my measurements they would apply said measurements towards a Nomentano, Chiga, Millenio, etc. Bespoke the pattern is made for you hence the need for additional measurements.

Secondly regarding your question on ties and the jacket being buttoned etc you have too first look at the reason we do these things in the first place. Jackets are suppose to give off the illusion of a well proportioned body, in the modern time we only button the middle button or the top button in a 2 button suit. When the jacket is buttoned we can see the real shape as opposed to having it open. Now as for the tie its an accessory to add color to an outfit, now in today's world it can be seen as stuffy. Pocket squares originally were meant to be perfumed so when walking though the streets you would have something to cover your nose for the shit smell For the break in the pants traditionally no or a slight break is preferred, basically to get the back of your pants to touch the start of the heel of your shoe, but then again with all the different cuts of pants now "slim, straight, etc" its really up to you. But too much break in pants will make it look sloppy and not "casual" Imo break shouldnt be the decided factor between a casual or business look, if its jeans then thats another story but we are talking pants here.
post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
Thanks Jeff, it was a typo. I meant half MTM and half bespoke. Because it was of a low quality tailor and allow 1 fitting only.

So, all the options above work with you? Seems that only unbutton jacket bothers you?

Any inputs from others?
post #4 of 5
Suit without tie is a terrible look. You can get away with it with something casual like a linen or cotton suit during the summer, but that's about it. Any worsted wool / woolen flannel suit you wear needs a tie. Odd jacket with no tie is a perfectly acceptable look for more casual situations that demand neither a suit nor a tie. Wearing a tie with no jacket is generally not recommended, though in offices where people take off their jackets it may not matter much as a practical matter. What you wear will depend on the needed level of formality.

I always button one button on my jackets. This should definitely be done when standing. When seated, you can unbutton a single breasted jacket (but not a double breasted one). I prefer a very slight break but that is strictly personal preference. Too much break looks sloppy and if you don't get the no break look right, you may look like you outgrew your pants.
post #5 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by obama View Post

Thanks Jeff, it was a typo. I meant half MTM and half bespoke. Because it was of a low quality tailor and allow 1 fitting only.

So, all the options above work with you? Seems that only unbutton jacket bothers you?

Any inputs from others?

Its not that it bothers me. What i was trying to do was explain the reason why we do things such as keep the jacket buttoned etc. In the end its really up to you do whatever YOU feel is nice, a major part of pulling off an outfit is confidence after all.
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