I am having three suits made up at a local MTO shop, but having a hard selecting shoulder and silhouette. I am a extremely slim guy (182cm by 58kg) with sloping narrow shoulders, looking something like this:
Warning: Undershirt pic (Click to show)
Which of the below models do you believe would work for me?
I know soft and natural shoulders seem to be popular around here, but experience makes me worried it will give a weak and tired impression when put on my narrow, sloping shoulders.
This is a pretty British jacket with a moderately roped shoulder and moderately slim armholes. I have one DB jacket in this model and find the roped shoulder rather flattering but the suit could be a little tighter in the body.
This model is supposedly inspired by Firenze-style tailoring with a much softer, round shoulder, high gorge-line, a bit slimmer in the body. Never tried it, fearing that the shoulder will give a weak impression when paired with my gaunt build.
This is what they call their “modern British” model: slightly roped shoulders, high gorge line, tight in the body, and a big cut-away in the front opening. On top this, it has these crazy flared sleeves (you can probably have them skip this detail tough). Never tried this one.
This model has a pronounced concave shoulder, paired with very slim armholes and rather tight sleeves, along with a very suppressed waist. I own a jacket in this model, and feel good with slim sleeves and body, but the concave shoulder feels rather “peaky” to wear. I feel it emphasizes my shoulders a little too much rather then to discreetly flatter them.
This model is slim and similar to the above 4, except that the concave shoulder is replaced with a softer, rounder, natural one. Sleeves are slightly more wide and generous by default but can be made as slim as model 4. I have tried this one too, and the impression is the opposite of the above – shoulder looks rather weak and tired.
This is basically their take on the American sack-suit. Natural shoulders, no darts, generous fit. Probably not for me.
Fabrics are royal blue solid wool, mid-size dog-tooth wool and gray flannel that will be made into a DB. Of course I have been taking advice from the shop staff, but they seem more concerned with fit in the chest and body and seem to consider shoulder expression little more then a matter of personal taste, thus not offering much useful input.
I thus turn to the collective wisdom of Styleforum.
Any input is deeply appreciated.