What suit sholder for my build?

I am having three suits made up at a local MTO shop, but having a hard selecting shoulder and silhouette. I am a extremely slim guy (182cm by 58kg) with sloping narrow shoulders, looking something like this:




Which of the below models do you believe would work for me?

I know soft and natural shoulders seem to be popular around here, but experience makes me worried it will give a weak and tired impression when put on my narrow, sloping shoulders.

Model 1:





This is a pretty British jacket with a moderately roped shoulder and moderately slim armholes. I have one DB jacket in this model and find the roped shoulder rather flattering but the suit could be a little tighter in the body.

Model 2:




This model is supposedly inspired by Firenze-style tailoring with a much softer, round shoulder, high gorge-line, a bit slimmer in the body. Never tried it, fearing that the shoulder will give a weak impression when paired with my gaunt build.

Model 3:





This is what they call their “modern British” model: slightly roped shoulders, high gorge line, tight in the body, and a big cut-away in the front opening. On top this, it has these crazy flared sleeves (you can probably have them skip this detail tough). Never tried this one.

Model 4:





This model has a pronounced concave shoulder, paired with very slim armholes and rather tight sleeves, along with a very suppressed waist. I own a jacket in this model, and feel good with slim sleeves and body, but the concave shoulder feels rather “peaky” to wear. I feel it emphasizes my shoulders a little too much rather then to discreetly flatter them.

Model 5:





This model is slim and similar to the above 4, except that the concave shoulder is replaced with a softer, rounder, natural one. Sleeves are slightly more wide and generous by default but can be made as slim as model 4. I have tried this one too, and the impression is the opposite of the above – shoulder looks rather weak and tired.

Traditional model:




This is basically their take on the American sack-suit. Natural shoulders, no darts, generous fit. Probably not for me.

Fabrics are royal blue solid wool, mid-size dog-tooth wool and gray flannel that will be made into a DB. Of course I have been taking advice from the shop staff, but they seem more concerned with fit in the chest and body and seem to consider shoulder expression little more then a matter of personal taste, thus not offering much useful input.

I thus turn to the collective wisdom of Styleforum.
Any input is deeply appreciated.

Thanks for the detailed and thoughtful post. This could be interesting. Would you be willing and able to post pics of yourself wearing the models that you have already?



unbelragazzo said:

Thanks for the detailed and thoughtful post. This could be interesting. Would you be willing and able to post pics of yourself wearing the models that you have already?

Click to expand...

based on the photos and your self-description, I would choose Model #2

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Fok, for the love of God, can't you get rid of this Bug?

All of the shoulder styles look fine, but the suits won't look that way on you, so it doesn't matter. Try on a few jackets and do a quick critique. If you want, post pictures for added advice.

You have a rather thin neck, so I'd be careful with any extension on the shoulders in general.

Perhaps Model 2, but what's the waist size relative to the shoulder size? Creating a fake top-heavy look would not be good.

More importantly, do not get three suits made at the same time. Just one, wear it for a while, and then decide if that silhouette is satisfying. If there's an urgent need for multiple suits and if at all possible, buy the others off the rack and tailor extensively if necessary (still cheaper than bespoke).