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A visit to Sartoria Ripense, Roma-based bespoke tailoring house - Page 3

post #31 of 77
That looks good Paul - keen to see the finished product!
post #32 of 77
Paul-lux,
I have viewed your tumblr many times and have always admired your Ripense tailoring. Interesting that you say the spalla shoulder is not right for you...what "type" of shoulder is Ripense using on your jackets? They look great! I ask because I am a slim 36r and I think that is a very flattering style.
post #33 of 77
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vida View Post

Paul-lux,
I have viewed your tumblr many times and have always admired your Ripense tailoring. Interesting that you say the spalla shoulder is not right for you...what "type" of shoulder is Ripense using on your jackets? They look great! I ask because I am a slim 36r and I think that is a very flattering style.

 

It depends, I do either a spalla con rolino or a spalla camicia but with a twist so it doesn't really fall straight at the shoulder seam but buffs up in a wrinkled way.

post #34 of 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by vida View Post

Paul-lux,
I have viewed your tumblr many times and have always admired your Ripense tailoring. Interesting that you say the spalla shoulder is not right for you...what "type" of shoulder is Ripense using on your jackets? They look great! I ask because I am a slim 36r and I think that is a very flattering style.

From the photos of the glen plaid suit I do not detect any hint of "spalla"
Here are some examples:

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=spalla+shoulder&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
post #35 of 77

Very nice and I love that three piece PoW check suit on page 1

post #36 of 77
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post


From the photos of the glen plaid suit I do not detect any hint of "spalla"
Here are some examples:

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=spalla+shoulder&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

 

Spalla is just "shoulder". The glen plaid suit has a spalla con rollino. 

 

If you meant the spalla camicia, definitely it's not on the glen plaid suit.

post #37 of 77
Andrea is a very nice guy and everything I have seen from him so far is good-looking too. He also steers clients away from horrible design decisions which is especially valuable in cities like Moscow...
post #38 of 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrik View Post

I just visited Ripense and ordered a suit. I also met SeamasterLux there (he must be living in that shop smile.gif ). It was quite an experience; I did 4 fittings in the course of 5 days. Although many of his customers do the process in a much longer time; I just walked in and said that I'll be in Rome for a week and is it possible to have a suit made. Now I'm waiting for the suit as it's scheduled for September. The suit was very promising in its "final fitting" -state and I'm really looking forward to it. I may even put some pictures here, once I get it.

I'm curious how they managed 4 fittings in 5 days without compromising quality. Did you bring that up? What did they say? Or is cutting a suit so much less complicated than I thought?

I'm not in the market for new bespoke suits, but I will be in Rome in three weeks for three weeks (temptation, temptation.)
post #39 of 77
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbowtie View Post


I'm curious how they managed 4 fittings in 5 days without compromising quality. Did you bring that up? What did they say? Or is cutting a suit so much less complicated than I thought?

I'm not in the market for new bespoke suits, but I will be in Rome in three weeks for three weeks (temptation, temptation.)

 

Simply by having 3 cutters including 2 that split the work on Patrik's suit. However, the percentage of completion of the suit was actually 60% and all seams needed to be finished. 

 

Everything is still handmade in that suit :)

 

Unfortunately for you, Ripense is closed for the whole month of August like most of the others shops. So first week of September, do rush if you want it.

post #40 of 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post

Simply by having 3 cutters including 2 that split the work on Patrik's suit. However, the percentage of completion of the suit was actually 60% and all seams needed to be finished. 

Everything is still handmade in that suit smile.gif

Unfortunately for you, Ripense is closed for the whole month of August like most of the others shops. So first week of September, do rush if you want it.

Thanks for the clarification.

The summer closure may be unfortunate for me, but quite fortunate for my wallet. I'll be leaving Rome on Sep. 1.
post #41 of 77

On the first day of my trip I discussed about the suit, chose the fabric and had my measurements taken. After that I revisited the shop 4 times, always at 5pm. In the first fitting, the suit was deliberately cut too big and had only one sleeve attached, in the second fitting the suit was cut to my form, in the third fitting the lapels were complete and the lining was partially done and in the last fitting the other shoulder was finished with rollino and the other sleeve was attached. Here's a picture of the suit in its last fitting-state hanging on the shelf.

post #42 of 77
Thread Starter 

post #43 of 77

Very interesting, thanks for sharing.

 

I have a question, though, because I was thinking of using Ripense, too: how flexible do you think are they when cutting the pants? I'd request a rather high waist. Would they do that?

post #44 of 77
The pants of my suit are a bit higher than he'd normally make. They sit like my jeans. I think he's open for ideas but will turn down, or at least question the strangest ones.
post #45 of 77
Thread Starter 
To be honest, it's bespoke so you can have whatever you want. Andrea might advise you what he thinks is best for you but you decide in the end what you want.

I went for very high rise this time and it's looking good.
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