Please critique my TaT Suit

Hi everyone, please critique my Thick As Thieves House Cut Suit.

Please note that the house cut is meant to have skinny lapels and the jacket length is meant to be 2 inches shorter than usual.





I'm not sure why the back is crunching up like that, is this normal? These pictures are after having the suit jacket and pants pressed and worn to an interview. I am thinking about taking in the sides a little. What's your opinion on this? I don't know why the picture makes the suit jacket more slim than it really is in the last picture.

The trousers look good in my eyes.

I will leave the critiques of the jacket to the experts.

What kind of jobs are you interviewing for? The short jacket is not something I would wear for an interview.

bellyhungry said:

The trousers look good in my eyes.

I will leave the critiques of the jacket to the experts.

What kind of jobs are you interviewing for? The short jacket is not something I would wear for an interview.

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I was interviewing for an IT position. I agree with you about the jacket length, however, I was in a rush when I had this made. My next M2M will more than likely have an increase in jacket length. Thank you for your input.

Something is going on with the arm-hole positioning (possibly relative to the shoulder-slope) which is causing bunching behind the arm-hole. I have lost a few arguments with tailors regarding the issue of overly high arm-hole placement causing (at least some) the issue you are seeing. It's not always popular, but adjusting the bottom of the arm-hole down a notch may clear it up (it's not the first TAT suit I have seen with these issues).

I would go and talk to a knowledgeable tailor ASAP because the back and shoulders look like a mess right now.

MisterFu said:

Something is going on with the arm-hole positioning (possibly relative to the shoulder-slope) which is causing bunching behind the arm-hole. I have lost a few arguments with tailors regarding the issue of overly high arm-hole placement causing (at least some) the issue you are seeing. It's not always fashion jewelry but adjusting the bottom of the arm-hole down a notch may clear it up (it's not the first TAT suit I have seen with these issues).

I would go and talk to a knowledgeable tailor ASAP because the back and shoulders look like a mess right now.

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Nailed it. Although I wouldn't wear the jacket at the interview. However, if you wanted to wear the jacket get it tailored.. It looks horrible in the back very loose.

MisterFu said:

Something is going on with the arm-hole positioning (possibly relative to the shoulder-slope) which is causing bunching behind the arm-hole. I have lost a few arguments with tailors regarding the issue of overly high arm-hole placement causing (at least some) the issue you are seeing. It's not always popular, but adjusting the bottom of the arm-hole down a notch may clear it up (it's not the first TAT suit I have seen with these issues).

I would go and talk to a knowledgeable tailor ASAP because the back and shoulders look like a mess right now.

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I appreciate your honest feedback. I can see what you mean by the back/arms needing adjustment, but my untrained eyes cannot see what is wrong with the shoulders. Would you mind explaining in greater detail? Thank you!

wohwoh said:

I appreciate your honest feedback. I can see what you mean by the back/arms needing adjustment, but my untrained eyes cannot see what is wrong with the shoulders. Would you mind explaining in greater detail? Thank you!

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Please take into account, I am not a tailor and you should really consult one (perhaps one of the tailors on SF will comment or correct me if I am wrong). In short, it looks to me like the shoulders aren't the correct slope, e.g. the suits shoulders are too square, whereas you need a slightly more sloped cut to the shoulder. It manifests itself in the lumpiness in the shoulder, especially just below the collar line. I believe the quick fix is to adjust or add shoulder padding. Actually fixing the slope requires a lot of work, but it may actually go hand in hand with adjusting the arm-holes, so again, I'd talk to a tailor and see what they say.

I am pretty sure a tailor can sort this suit out for you (I'm always amazed at what they can do).

Your shoulder protrude to the left. Its very obvious with pictures of you not wearing a jacket. I am pretty sure that's the cause of rumpling on the back.

Bonggoy said:

Your shoulder protrude to the left. Its very obvious with pictures of you not wearing a jacket. I am pretty sure that's the cause of rumpling on the back.

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Yeah OP. It's like you have a built in gangster lean.



StylishJoe said:

Nailed it. Although I wouldn't wear the jacket at the interview. However, if you wanted to wear the jacket get it tailored.. It looks horrible in the back very loose.

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In the real world, people don't notice things like the back of your jacket not being exceptionally clean. Especially in IT.

So, go to a tailor and get the jacket cleaned up; but make sure you have back in time for your interview. Showing that you care by wearing a suit in the first place matters much more than having some technical problems with it.

As is fairly obvious to the naked eye, the jacket looks like hot garbage,

Taking the sides in will only accentuate what I feel is a construction issue compounding fit issues of a suitmaker that doesn't know how to construct a jacket for someone who has broad shoulders relative to their waist.

The pants look fine, I don't think the jacket can be fixed. Taking the sides in will make you look like you're wearing an Armani suit from the early 90s or like Janet Jackson on the Rhythm Nation tour.

There is no reason the ticket and pocket flaps should be overlapping. They also throw off the balance of the jacket and make it look messy.



MisterFu said:

Something is going on with the arm-hole positioning (possibly relative to the shoulder-slope) which is causing bunching behind the arm-hole. I have lost a few arguments with tailors regarding the issue of overly high arm-hole placement causing (at least some) the issue you are seeing. It's not always popular, but adjusting the bottom of the arm-hole down a notch may clear it up (it's not the first TAT suit I have seen with these issues).

I would go and talk to a knowledgeable tailor ASAP because the back and shoulders look like a mess right now.

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From the looks of it the arm holes are already pretty low as it is, anyway im not so sure that the cause of that is the armhole. It would be good if the OP got a tailor to comment on this to see if he can figure out what is causing the problem but im 90% sure its not the armhole.

OP, I can't tell if it is just your shoulder or your posture in general, but it doesn't look like either were taken into account. The short length accentuates this.

eluther said:

In the real world, people don't notice things like the back of your jacket not being exceptionally clean. Especially in IT.

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Yes, they do. It may not be conscious, and they may not be able to explain why one person looks better dressed than the other, but they certainly do notice.

Thank you for all your feedback. I will be taking this jacket to the tailor shortly to see what they say. By the way, I think the 4th picture is just from bad posture at that moment. My body isn't normally like that.

Please feel free to throw more critiques at this suit.