Originally Posted by YRR92
When you say you've had the lapels "recut" to resemble the CdL shape on your other suits, do you mean that you ordered it that way when you had them made, or are they somehow altered from a peak lapel into that Parisian shape?
Great tumblr, BTW. I've followed you.
Obsessed as I was by the CdL notch lapel, but equally deterred by the price, I undertook to commission several made-to-measure copies of that lapel, on the cheap. These somewhat unsucessful experiments, and their intermediate stages, are all documented on my Tumblr if you look closely.
In one instance, I found an MTM tailor whose standard notch lapel was somewhat similar to CdL, but his fishmouth was too closed -- I had him open up the notch by a few milimeters, and it came out looking pretty close to the original (Di Castri blue suit). Another time I asked him to copy my CdL suit from scratch, but that was such a disaster that I quasi-gifted the result to a friend, just to get it out of my sight (Di Castri blue pinstripe suit).
I also asked my tailor in Hong Kong to make a CdL copy, but it too ended up pretty far off the mark, so I had to buy extra fabric and have my alterations tailor in Paris redo the collar from scratch -- it did come out looking pretty close to the original in the end (New Kingston Fashion medium gray suit.)
I'm currently in the process of another such copy/alteration on a Handson MTM suit, we'll see what comes of it.
Lastly, I had asked Scavini to make a copy of the CdL notch lapel, but his attempt looked more like Guilson's notch lapel, which was to be expected since Guilson is his teacher and mentor at the Paris Tailor's School. Although Guilson's notch lapel is in line with the historical 'cran parisien', it still doesn't look like CdL's lapel and, the way it's cut, I won't be able to alter Sacavini's suit to make it more similar to CdL unfortunately.
BTW -- I also attempted a Smalto copy by my Hong Kong tailor, but it's not satisfactory either. Not such a big deal as that particular cut is readily available in Smalto RTW.