French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[dirnelli]

Here's a pic from Berluti S/S 2014 that's a real turn-off:

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/73695424685/first-know-the-rules-then-dont-break-them

 

[unbelragazzo]



Here's a pic from Berluti S/S 2014 that's a real turn-off:

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/73695424685/first-know-the-rules-then-dont-break-them

Also showing a belt loop on the trousers with no belt. And it's hard to tell in that pic, but the jacket looks like it's of a "modern" length.

Not that there's a rule against it, but I think that color is arresting enough that there's no reason to add all these other doodads. It's too bad, because the color itself I quite like. A more traditionally tailored jacket and waistcoat of that color with the same shirt and pants would look quite nice IMHO.

 

[HighToned]

Berluti is quite busy in Asia, they came to Japan at their Ginza store to do a Bespoke event with tailor Karim Rebahi.
Next day, they were doing the same event in Singapore with Rake team.

I'm wondering if you ask for a "Forestière jacket" will they accept ?


Hermès is doing special event in US....
"Walk into the boutique and you’ll feel that message right away. At a rooftop dinner there last week— foie gras soup, Chilean sea bass, dark chocolate cremeux—Nichanian showed a handful of guests select items like John Lobb shoes so polished they looked wooden; deep cabinets filled with colorful calfskin and crocodile suede jackets; a slate crocodile buttondown so soft you could sleep in it (price: $64,500). The store holds more than 24,000 products total, though even the largest Hermès store in the world, the one on Rue Faubourg, holds only 10 percent of the items available.
It was a special evening for VIP customers and editors complete with a violinist and china emblazoned with the Hermès logo. Similar special events will be in San Francisco and Seattle later this month, though the New York location will be the only US location to offer demi-measure and sur-measure bespoke services. The custom program allows customers to pick from more than 5,000 fabric choices (think caviar wool, chevron cashmere, salt-and-pepper blending–a swath of your own fabric is kept in an archive should you ever need repairs) and dictate every inch of the piece. Prices start at $9,500 for the bespoke three-fitting service, which requires more than 30 measurements and roughly nine weeks to complete. Tailors will travel to a home or office to complete the fit."
See the full article of Forbes here :
http://www.forbes.com/sites/hannahe...-on-what-makes-good-taste-why-to-wear-a-suit/

 

[poorsod]

My impression is that the regular luxury brands like LV are getting oversaturated in the Asia market and no longer exclusive. LVMH bought Berluti, Arnys and Loro Piana to make into their next tier super luxury brand. I remember reading this in an article but don't recall the source.

 

[clee1982]

I assume Berluti and other luxury brands are doing well, Berluti just opened a store in Taiwan recently, that is at least a surprise to me. LV is saturated in Asia for sure, no figures, but everyone in Shanghai who could afford LV (by any means, whether it's a drop of bucket or half year salary) already got one, same thing goes with LV in Japan and probably South Korea.

 

[dirnelli]

RJMan has quit SF but sends us this postcard

 

[lasbar]



My impression is that the regular luxury brands like LV are getting oversaturated in the Asia market and no longer exclusive. LVMH bought Berluti, Arnys and Loro Piana to make into their next tier super luxury brand. I remember reading this in an article but don't recall the source.

The more brands they do have ,the more coherent their commercial development strategy can be..

 

[gambit50]



RJMan has quit SF but sends us this postcard

Nice one.

Also showing a belt loop on the trousers with no belt. And it's hard to tell in that pic, but the jacket looks like it's of a "modern" length.

Not that there's a rule against it, but I think that color is arresting enough that there's no reason to add all these other doodads. It's too bad, because the color itself I quite like. A more traditionally tailored jacket and waistcoat of that color with the same shirt and pants would look quite nice IMHO.

I like the color quite a bit as well.

 

[dirnelli]

I agree. With such an original color, simple is all you need, or even can do.

 

[mack11211]



The more brands they do have ,the more coherent their commercial development strategy can be..

Perhaps that gap between vest and waistband is meant to be filled by an LV navel ring.

 

[HighToned]

The market is not really satured in Japan.

It's funny because I talked last month with the CEO of LV Japan.
And he told me that with the opening of the new LV shop at Shinjuku - Tokyo (biggest train station in the world).
They have pretty amazing results on a two floors building.

Japanese customers are very loyal to their favorite brands and you have a lot of others new customers from Asia.


I'm very interested about the strategy of Loro Piana with Antoine Arnault at his head.
They're re-structuring everything in Paris. Wait and see ...

But trust me LVMH brands are all doing well !

 

[poorsod]

Have any of you worked with Kenjiro Suzuki? I was looking over his stuff and it looks quite nice. I hear suits start at 3500 euros which seems quite reasonable for Paris.

 

[dirnelli]

I have not worked with him, but I've seen his work up close and it was beautifully made -- the French and the Japanese share the same obsession with perfectly crafted details such as stitching and buttonholes. More so than the SR suits I've seen. I agree that his price is attractive. Marc di Fiore is even more attractive at only 2500 for similar work.

 

[lasbar]



I have not worked with him, but I've seen his work up close and it was beautifully made -- the French and the Japanese share the same obsession with perfectly crafted details such as stitching and buttonholes. More so than the SR suits I've seen. I agree that his price is attractive. Marc di Fiore is even more attractive at only 2500 for similar work.

That is cheap compared to the big boys..

 

[dirnelli]

I would not say that Di Fiore is not one of the big boys. Almost the same generation as Marc de Luca, same history, same village in Italy that everyone is from -- the families are basically neighbors & know eachother a generation back. Marc de Luca has only ever had good things to say about Di Fiore (he nevers badmouths other tailors, contrary to others.) Di Fiore is up there, he's just off the radar, known only to connaisseurs because he never grew his business and works essentially on his own.