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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 55

post #811 of 1044
My advice: keep the lapel as it is. I thought of asking Lorenzo to change the design but fortunately I did not. Gia can button the jacket all the way to the top. Perfect for a cold day when you are carrying no coat. I was in Istanbul last December and walked for hours along the Bosphorus against a bitter cold wind from the north. The buttoned up yak jacket kept me nice and warm
post #812 of 1044
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Yeah, I might ask Lorenzo to notch the lapel to make it more wearable, but I don't know how that affects other aspects of the jacket. I think means I will lose a buttonhole. Will find out on Monday.
My advice: keep the lapel as it is. I thought of asking Lorenzo to change the design but fortunately I did not. Gia can button the jacket all the way to the top. Perfect for a cold day when you are carrying no coat. I was in Istanbul last December and walked for hours along the Bosphorus against a bitter cold wind from the north. The buttoned up yak jacket kept me nice and warm
post #813 of 1044
Thanks Levantine. What color did you select?
post #814 of 1044
I chose a light olive green

There are more than 50-60 colours to choose from
post #815 of 1044
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post



.

They did a nice job on this. Is it 1 button?
post #816 of 1044
^Thank you, Kuro. Yes, one button. It is the style that Cifonelli calls "Scotia" with three patch pockets and the fabric is a tan donegal tweed by Scabal.
post #817 of 1044
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Maybe not "tailoring", but the limosine briefcase by Moynat is completely made by hand and is a good example of the French style and workmanship that you see throughout this thread: attention to detail, high-quality materials, precision, and modern variations on classical forms and shapes:



I have looked at that one before but am not sold on that shape.
post #818 of 1044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Levantine View Post

I chose a light olive green

There are more than 50-60 colours to choose from

Thanks for that. I was not going to get that jacket because I would not go for the olive green and thought it was the only colour. Now I will go for it for sure.

Is it the usual cost - around 4K?
post #819 of 1044
Love that Moynat - had my eye on that for awhile now.
post #820 of 1044
Yes the usual cost
post #821 of 1044
I just met with Lorenzo and decided to order the Yak jacket in a color called yak black. It isn't quite black, but more like a very deep blue/gray. I suspect that with the unnotched lapel, I will end up wearing this more on evenings and at night and not for business so I think that color will work really well. All of the colors are atypical and quite beautiful, but certainly outside of the color scheme that I think most of us would usually consider for jackets. The yak wool is about 12 ounces and feels a like a soft tweed. It almost has a birdseye effect to it. I will post pictures of the completed jacket when I receive it in a few months.
post #822 of 1044
^ Vety cool. Did you go for the design on the site (notchless lapel, 3 pleated patch pockets etc.)?
post #823 of 1044
Yes, the standard Qilian features, which is (I guess) a 5 roll 2, which can be buttoned all the way to the top and three flapped bellows pockets. After discussing the construction of the jacket with Lorenzo, getting it other than notchless would have been an odd choice because the whole key to that jacket is that the lapel is contiguous (no separate piece of fabric forming the collar) and is split only at the back seam. I suppose it could be notched while retaining that collar construction, but the jacket is really thought out to be something specific and I didn't want to start playing with elements that tied so well together. You can see that construction in the last picture on Parisian Gentleman's site on the link below:

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2012/01/29/qilian-bespoke-sport-jacket-by-cifonelli-a-sartorial-piece-from-far-away/
post #824 of 1044
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I just met with Lorenzo and decided to order the Yak jacket in a color called yak black. It isn't quite black, but more like a very deep blue/gray. I suspect that with the unnotched lapel, I will end up wearing this more on evenings and at night and not for business so I think that color will work really well. All of the colors are atypical and quite beautiful, but certainly outside of the color scheme that I think most of us would usually consider for jackets. The yak wool is about 12 ounces and feels a like a soft tweed. It almost has a birdseye effect to it. I will post pictures of the completed jacket when I receive it in a few months.
After you were it a few times it becomes softer and softer without losing its form.
post #825 of 1044
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I just met with Lorenzo and decided to order the Yak jacket in a color called yak black. It isn't quite black, but more like a very deep blue/gray. I suspect that with the unnotched lapel, I will end up wearing this more on evenings and at night and not for business so I think that color will work really well. All of the colors are atypical and quite beautiful, but certainly outside of the color scheme that I think most of us would usually consider for jackets. The yak wool is about 12 ounces and feels a like a soft tweed. It almost has a birdseye effect to it. I will post pictures of the completed jacket when I receive it in a few months.

I can't wait to see it!

And I can't wait to go there either.

I love the thought of that colour.

My only concern is how warm it is to wear. It's all good for you Euros but here in Oz if it's really warm there are only a couple of months to wear it.

Have to wait and see I suppose.
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