French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 52
Berluti kept the "Rive Gauche" style of Arnys. It's quite softer on the structure, more casual and colorful than others tailors in Paris.
They still taking care of Arnys bespoke customers. I saw many silk linings with Arnys initials reserved for old customers.
Arnys family didn't have much succession to take care of the business. Alfredo Orlandi was in charge at the atelier at this time. He is very kind old timer with eager to share his tailoring skills. He should be retired but he still wants to work.
Mr Alfredo Orlandi chooses to push Karim Rehabi to be in charge so they can save the history of Arnys.
Tailor, Karim Rehabi is travelling all over the world to promote French tailoring. I don't think the focus is on US, they send him in Asia also or a lot in the new shop in London.
Berluti wants to provide a full bespoke service. Either it's for a suits, shoes, jeans, shirts, coats, tuxedos, sport jackets and trench coats...
Alessandro Sartori didn't touch the bespoke style. But he designed few bespoke garments to provide advices to new customers. Those garments are on display at Berluti shops.
On the RTW side, designer Alessandro Sartori incorporate few aspects of Arnys tailoring such as leather buttonholes, inner pockets details but yes the RTW is fashion forward.
Edited by HighToned - 3/25/14 at 10:38am
and what happened to Korn?
Le Bespoke Tailoring de notre pays nous confectionne un art onéreux et d’un autre temps, est pas du tout dans le courant actuel. Le savoir-faire dans la grande-mesure est incontestable et nous sommes au summum de l’art artisanal. Mais ce n’est pas suffisant.
C’est la même chose comme si tu te mettais un costume de Humphrey Bogart, il semblerait ancien, déphasé, et le plus distrait te dirais "bien qu’élégants, je te voie un peu bizarre…". Par contre si ma femme se mettait une robe de Lauren Bacall elle serait simplement ridicule. La mode masculine, évolue très lentement et certains en profite pour s’endormir. Un petit dépoussiérage ne ferait pas de mal.
A nice illustration of the French view on bespoke tailoring. Duret is a French maker of leather goods and belts. I wanted a bespoke belt made to my specifications but won't be in Paris until October. I contacted Duret and told them my belt size and also that my tailor was Parisian and could give detailed information about my measurements. Duret told me that in order to get the appropriate size, they would send me a package with instructions. Today, I received from Duret a canvas belt with cork and nail attached via leather at one end, and a leather capsule at the other end. It is a simple but nifty way to get an accurate belt size. It came with instructions in English. All of this was sent international mail with a customs declaration at no cost to me. Sure, they could have just accepted my measurement over the phone and sent me a belt, but then I might not have measured right and I wouldn't be happy. Typical of my experience with those who really want to get it right. Pictures below (with Cifonelli bespoke trousers and a Charvet bespoke shirt thrown in for good measure). Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
An update on the process of Duret. They don't accept credit cards, so non-Parisian clients have to wire euros just like with Passaggio Cravatte or Vass. Once they receive your trial belt and your wire transfer, details are confirmed in writing. Now for the waiting...