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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 6

post #76 of 1302
Thread Starter 
Simon Crompton's Cifonelli

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2011/03/final-tweed-jacket-from-cifonelli.html#.UYZgdqKG18E

To me it looks to have more drape than I would have expected from Cifonelli.





Simon Crompton's Cifonelli DB
http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/10/photos-from-permanent-style-drinks.html#.UYZk16KG18E

I didn't find his write up about making of his Cifonelli DB, so I wonder if it is RTW.



Additional Cifonelli DB Jacket details (a different coat it seems) with a nice Milanese lapel buttonhole.
http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/02/cifonelli-jacket-in-detail.html#.UYZjpKKG18E



Simon Crompton in A&S and Hugo Jacomet in Cifonelli
http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2011/10/welcome-hugo-jacomet-parisian-gentleman.html#.UYZkFqKG18E

post #77 of 1302
Thread Starter 
Arnys, sadly now gone.

Flusser intro on Arnys
http://books.google.com/books?id=xRLb7QO8EgsC&pg=PA309&lpg=PA309&dq=flusser+arnys&source=bl&ots=bNa9WnObX1&sig=k4ehBg8nq3BVTpuWbAh0P5MsN3U&hl=en&sa=X&ei=ETiDUcaPOebx0gHnu4DADQ&ved=0CD8Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=flusser%20arnys&f=false

From a later page Flusser writes:
Quote:
[ Arnys sportswear] is so well made and costly that one imagines the only sport you can wear it for is shopping.




RJMan's article about Arnys and its recent acquisition by LVMH.

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/07/au-revoir-arnys.html

Arnys Forestiere. Because all the cool kids have one (or more).
Some info
http://www.keikari.com/english/arnys-forestiere/







I've tried on the Forestiere several times over the years but just couldn't like it. I preferred this style instead.




Arnys Buttons
I learned from Arnys about how great buttons can determine the entire look.

From RJMan's coat


From Ville Raivio's write up
post #78 of 1302

In that last pic, Crompton's A&S does look smarter than the Cifo, which appears quite blocky. Could just be HJ's body shape.

post #79 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


Simon Crompton's Cifonelli DB Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I didn't find his write up about making of his Cifonelli DB, so I wonder if it is RTW.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Additional Cifonelli DB Jacket details (a different coat it seems) with a nice Milanese lapel buttonhole.
http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/02/cifonelli-jacket-in-detail.html#.UYZjpKKG18E
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show) ]

The DB jacket detail shots include a client label with his name on it, so it's bespoke. Suspect it's the same DB coat, it' s just hard to see the herringbone at that resolution.
post #80 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

While French tailors certainly sound top-notch, I wonder how the young guys in their 20s / 30s are ever supposed to gain an introduction to local bespoke at those prices? Short of Wall Streeters at that age, I can't imagine people having the financial wherewithal to throw down 5-6K euros for a suit.

 

Do they all head to Italy or buy high-end MTM? Or is there a local version of Ercole / Graham Browne?

 

Di Fiore, Brano and some others are not at the price level of Cifo and Camps which makes it more affordable.

 

But amongst young French guys in their 20s/30s, many go MTM starting with Artling, Handson, Gambler, Ohnona, Les Dandys, Diagne and so many others. Prices range from 500€ to 2000€ (starting price I mean) and quality varies greatly.

 

You're right however since I own 1 Camps and 1 Cifo but approximately 10 Sartoria Ripense. I could save the money for 2.5 Ripense suits and order a Camps instead but well, I had to build my wardrobe first. Now I've got a significant number of nice pieces and I also enjoy very much working with Andrea Luparelli from Sartoria Ripense which makes me think that I'll see later for another Camps, even if it still remains my greatest experience everything. The price tag is just that high for me and I consider myself already very fortunate to own one.

post #81 of 1302
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

In that last pic, Crompton's A&S does look smarter than the Cifo, which appears quite blocky. Could just be HJ's body shape.

I think the Crompton's A&S DB also looks better than his Cifonelli DB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mack11211 View Post

The DB jacket detail shots include a client label with his name on it, so it's bespoke. Suspect it's the same DB coat, it' s just hard to see the herringbone at that resolution.

You might be right that they are the same. I was thinking about this for a while and wasn't sure one way or the other.
post #82 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post

 

Di Fiore, Brano and some others are not at the price level of Cifo and Camps which makes it more affordable.

 

But amongst young French guys in their 20s/30s, many go MTM starting with Artling, Handson, Gambler, Ohnona, Les Dandys, Diagne and so many others. Prices range from 500€ to 2000€ (starting price I mean) and quality varies greatly.

 

You're right however since I own 1 Camps and 1 Cifo but approximately 10 Sartoria Ripense. I could save the money for 2.5 Ripense suits and order a Camps instead but well, I had to build my wardrobe first. Now I've got a significant number of nice pieces and I also enjoy very much working with Andrea Luparelli from Sartoria Ripense which makes me think that I'll see later for another Camps, even if it still remains my greatest experience everything. The price tag is just that high for me and I consider myself already very fortunate to own one.

 

Thanks for your reply. Would you have any pics of your CdL?

post #83 of 1302
Re price-tag, it is increasingly rare that I should hear of, let alone meet, any actual French clients of Camps or Cifonelli. I hear there are some, but I'm beginning to suspect it's an urban legend... It seems like the whole business has gone international: Russians, African rulers, Gulf, Asia, etc.

Nevertheless, for those less well-heeled, there is an abundant local offering of made-to-measure tailoring, at just about every price. It's actually a business that's on the up and up in Paris. It seems like every young kid is starting up a business selling made-to-measure shirts and/or suits, trying to capture the current menswear spending bubble. With made-to-measure prices that are now pretty much in line with what the average man is willing to pay for a ready to wear suit, most parisians are buying made-to-measure suits at the low end of the price range. The guy who seems to have cornered the market is Gambler, who sells ten-thousand €500 MTM suits a year out of a 10 m² hole in the wall at Madeleine. Close second is Handson around the corner.
post #84 of 1302
Thread Starter 
Dirnelli has pics of his CdL on this tumblr.

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/tagged/camps-de-luca




Edited for accuracy.
Edited by poorsod - 5/5/13 at 11:34am
post #85 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Dirnelli has pics of his CdL on this tumblr.

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/tagged/camps-de-luca

tumblr_mkznxxMcR11rugtzko2_500.jpg

tumblr_mf0kf7mpLc1rugtzko1_500.jpg
Be careful, the blue is a copy, the gray is the real deal.
Edited by dirnelli - 5/5/13 at 11:08am
post #86 of 1302
I wear my fathers suits from Smalto and Feruch.
if you saw them in person, you would understand why NSM turns me off.
strong shoulders, fully padded canvas, but with a high armhole.
needle work is sublime.

i will take some photos of my father's shirts from Lanvin. these date back to the 70's/80s
the finest shirts i have ever seen. they put charvet to shame..
RJman sent me a recent version(last 5 years) shirt from lanvin.
not even close in work man-ship

.
post #87 of 1302
Good info
post #88 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romain View Post

So, Caruso is making RTW for (almost) all the parisian tailors?
Even if the quality is good, it sounds a little disturbing to have a French suit made by Italian in China...

Regarding Stark, you can find some info on their website/online shop: http://en.starkandsons.com/

alternatively you can have Chinese making them in Italy...
post #89 of 1302
arnys' old bespoke workshop (click through on right arrow) http://www.puretrend.com/media/dans-l-atelier-arnys_m406117

speaking of Lanvin, how is their bespoke department (which I think is now actually led by a tailor that was at arnys)?
post #90 of 1302

Dirnelli:

 

When you say you've had the lapels "recut" to resemble the CdL shape on your other suits, do you mean that you ordered it that way when you had them made, or are they somehow altered from a peak lapel into that Parisian shape?

 

Great tumblr, BTW. I've followed you.
 

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