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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 38

post #556 of 1429
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

I generally like your contributions Foo, but it's challenging to see how a large part of your commentary here is not driven by your desire/need to defend your tailor and the way he does things, even when the initial discussion did not cover the R man.

Bingo bongo
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

You people really do just want to pick a fight with me, don't you?

Love how you often conclude that a wide variety of people want to pick fights with you. Could it not have something to do with you or the (ludicrous self-serving) positions you take? No, impossible.



Beautiful CdL suit. What is the purpose of that teardrop pocket?
post #557 of 1429
Those who are fighting are now fighting just to fight, without any point whatsoever. Please stop ruining this beautiful thread, especially after dirnelli got us back on topic with those lovely detail pictures. If you still want to gripe at each other, take it to PM.
post #558 of 1429
OK, redo of my post:

Beautiful CdL suit. What is the purpose of that teardrop pocket?
post #559 of 1429
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Since this thread has completely derailed, I will try to get in back on track with some aspirational & inspirational details from my Camps de Luca suit.

The creased vent is very cool, and not all that difficult to make, it's a wonder more tailors haven't copied that detail, it gives the jacket a unique look as you walk around. BTW -- it's not just an ironing crease, there is a special layer of 'bougran' in there to make it hold up to wear.







Does the crease stop at the top of the vent or continue along the side seam to the armhole?
post #560 of 1429
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Since this thread has completely derailed, I will try to get in back on track with some aspirational & inspirational details from my Camps de Luca suit.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The creased vent is very cool, and not all that difficult to make, it's a wonder more tailors haven't copied that detail, it gives the jacket a unique look as you walk around. BTW -- it's not just an ironing crease, there is a special layer of 'bougran' in there to make it hold up to wear.










Beautiful! Any fit pics?
post #561 of 1429
Stops at top of vent.
post #562 of 1429
I will post new fit pics some other day. I had the suit altered so I have to wait for the right day to wear it. It's a suit I break out, or avoid wearing, depending on what the day's schedule calls for. No travel, no taxis, no lifting anything... At that price, tearing the suit would entail committing seppuku immediately thereafter.
post #563 of 1429
Ha. They're ~$9K US or so?
post #564 of 1429
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Stops at top of vent.

Can also be done continuing to the armhole. Makes a striking silhouette. Especially on a firm cloth like mohair. Have done this on flannel too.
post #565 of 1429
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by archetypal_yuppie View Post

OK, redo of my post:

Beautiful CdL suit. What is the purpose of that teardrop pocket?

See below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

The label is set into a pocket which is very laborious to make and serves no purpose other than to draw attention to the amount of work done on the garment. It's the tailoring equivalent of melisma- a "see what I can do?".



The French are obsessed with the Boutonniere Milanaise which is also incredibly laborious and difficult.



The pocket jets are finished by hand



The linings are felled by hand using a type of stitch which is at least twice as long if not three times as long to do than the usual method.



A few stitches would suffice to tack the lining. Instead, they embroider the "S" for Smalto


The cut edges, which are concealed under the lining, have been overcast by hand to prevent fraying. I have never seen this on an English garment, but is typical of couture.
post #566 of 1429
I see, so it is not a pocket at all. Thx.
post #567 of 1429
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Understand the point I was making. It was as particular to Rubinacci as it was to Ferrari. You can fill in any which famous, well-reputed tailor that you like.

Interesting that you didn't take away that I was bragging about Ferrari. Lots of touchiness around here regarding London House.
Reading comprehension around here needs work. I didn't say there was no point to a partial lining--I said the claim that it signifies a superior garment is bullshit.

You people really do just want to pick a fight with me, don't you?

I understood your point and my comment was merely an observation; no critique necessarily, but I'll leave it there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Since this thread has completely derailed, I will try to get in back on track with some aspirational & inspirational details from my Camps de Luca suit.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The creased vent is very cool, and not all that difficult to make, it's a wonder more tailors haven't copied that detail, it gives the jacket a unique look as you walk around. BTW -- it's not just an ironing crease, there is a special layer of 'bougran' in there to make it hold up to wear.










Thanks D - superb way to get this back on track!
post #568 of 1429
On CdL suit the teardrop pocket is functional, but not on Smalto.

Price estimate is correct, alas...
post #569 of 1429
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

On CdL suit the teardrop pocket is functional, but not on Smalto.

Price estimate is correct, alas...

On the Smalto it is also technically functional. But how functional is it really? What can you actually store in that small pocket, and how secure would it be, considering the massive opening of it?
post #570 of 1429
It's actually deep enough to be quite functional. In their original design, it is meant to host your eyeglasses, so you have to picture a depth of at least eyeglass length. However, on my model, I asked them to size it to be able to fit an iPhone.
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