French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 27
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Dirnelli, I am surprised that Cifonelli does RTW that is so different from their "signature" look. Seems risky from a branding and marketing perspective?
A cash grab that could backfire if the garments are not as impressive as they should be as their reputation could suffer badly.
You are talking about Cifonelli as if it were Dior Homme. I think the branding and marketing perspective of the house is fine, meaning that they offer a top bespoke offer and that for people that don't want to invest that much, they have a RTW line and alterations are made by Cifo which would already flatter/reassure/make customers happy. They've done it for a while and I don't think that it's a bad move. i'm actually convinced that it provides them with a better return on investment compared to bespoke.
Once again, the RTW models can't have high armholes and specific fits as they're made for an average man.
And I guess Berluti is the same - offering both.
I personally find it a bit of a turn off that there is a discounted line available and that it is made by different people. Takes a bit of gloss off for me. Having said that it won't stop me from getting some jackets from them when I next visit.
I'm not sure that I understand your point about the turnoff from being made elsewhere. ALL RTW is made elsewehere, except that from brands that own their factories -- e.g. Tom Ford is not made by Tom Ford, it's made for Tom Ford by some italian factory (Caruso? Zegna?), whereas Zegna is indeed made by Zegna, who owns factories and can make for themselves and for others. Very few RTW brands own factories, and most of the top RTW brands are made by a handful of italian factories such as Zegna, Caruso, Santandrews, ISAIA, Belvest, et al. So, in my view, there is nothing shocking in offering a wellmade RTW line made elsewhere. A Caruso suit made for Cifo will be a very different suit from a Caruso for RLPL or RLBL, because each brand will come to the maker with very different styling, pattern and construction specs.
I just think it cheapens the brand. But that's obviously just my problem.
Out of interest, do you know if Berluti make their own RTW?
There are other SF threads devoted to informing about who makes for what RTW brands, I suggest you have a look, to find out who's making what. Those threads will teach you to recognize the technical labels coming from each factory. Once you know the fonts of the Caruso inside label, you start to see it in alot of places.
Here are a few match-ups to get you started:
Smalto RTW = Caruso
Arnys RTW = Caruso
Hartwood RTW = Caruso
Basile RTW = Mabro
Louis Vuitton RTW = Mabro (partly)
For ties at well known French RTW brands, I would say that in 9 cases out of 10 they are being made by Boivin.
I think their is no real marketing at Cifonelli... They are too busy to do marketing. ; )
They are making RTW for people that can't go on bespoke, but want to have a well-fitted suit.
Like SeamasterLux and I said, Cifonelli RTW suit alterations are made in house and of course you will not have high end armholes.
Personally, I'm verry happy about my RTW Cifonelli suit, Lorenzo Cifonelli did the fitting with me, I got my suit few weeks later.
If you're doing RTW, it's seasonal. And because it's seasonal, you need a turnover in your collection.
So it's normal to be on sales !
ps : Tom Ford RTW is made by Zegna Couture standards.
Good news !
"Maison Francesco Smalto will present a Bespoke collection in 2014
He made me a suit for my wedding and I am starting a three pieces suit with him.
A pic of a morning jacket :