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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 25

post #361 of 1430

I enjoyed the Professional tv show of NHK on tailor Kenjiro Suzuki... Some part was very interesting, with nice explications. 

 

I was disappointed when they showed Camps de Luca building, but Cifonelli atelier... I really wanted to see Smalto bespoke workshop, too bad. They only showed pictures.

 

 

For people in Japan, Kenjiro Sukuki is doing a two speechs at Wako Ginza, then he will be available for Bespoke order.

http://www.wako.co.jp/news/458?back=0

 

 

 

I think people asked in this post for pictures of Dimitri Gomez shoes. I went two times to his atelier be annoying with him and took few pictures.

 

 

 

 

post #362 of 1430
The Rake's owner, Wei Koh, in his Cifonelli bespoke suit. Looks like a mess.



post #363 of 1430

Thanks Kuro for posting the NHK story about Kenjiro Suzuki, that was fascinating to watch.

 

Here's some more content to fuel the thread:

 

1) A customer review (in French, with pics) of an ex-Smalto tailor who has set out on his own:

 

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/70201958390/guest-post-in-french-follower-benjamin-reviews

 

2) Thrift bragging rights pic of a Cifonelli bespoke DB coat:

 

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/70567436717/even-though-i-am-no-longer-buying-clothes-there

 

3) Does anybody have feedback to contribute on the new bespoke act in town, Emmanuel Vischer, who has set up in the old Rovito shop ?

post #364 of 1430
post #365 of 1430
P.P.S. Does anyone have experience to share about Rambure, Guilson, or Diagne?
post #366 of 1430
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

P.P.S. Does anyone have experience to share about Rambure, Guilson, or Diagne?
A friend has a suit made by David Diagne (text is in French) : http://engrandepompe.forumpersos.com/t1049-experience-chez-un-tailleur?highlight=exp%C3%A9rience

Here are also a few pictures of a visit of his workshop and dinner we had with him a few years ago : http://engrandepompe.forumpersos.com/t1189-david-diagne-tailleur-a-paris?highlight=diagne

He is very friendly and talented. The cut reminds me of Smalto and Kenjiro Suzuki, a little more affirmed than Suzuki (e.g. wider lapels), very soft (no shoulder pad).
post #367 of 1430
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

I love this debate about handmade luxury RTW vs. bespoke. I could carry on for hours about this topic.

I will however summarize my conclusion, for the sake of saving space: there is no universal truth, at the end of the day.

It comes down to an argument about whether certain steps in the process have more value if done by hand versus the same steps done by machine? Well, as it turns out, the answer entirely depends who is doing the handiwork. Some humans aren't as good as the machines, while others are superior to machines, so it really has to be looked at case by case. And it can vary widely within a single brand, making matters even more confusing. So yes, sometimes RTW beats bespoke, as much as we hate to admit it. One area where this is obvious is in high end fabrics, where the purchasing clout of a luxury RTW brand sometimes places the final product at a price where the bespoke equivalent would cost much more because of the value of the raw materials when purchased in a single length by the tailor.

My solution is to have both high end RTW (never paid at RRP) and bespoke, which gives one a balanced appreciation of the pros and cons of each.

Never pay RRP?

Are you saying you turn up at a place like Cifonelli and ask for a discount? How do they react?
post #368 of 1430
By that, I mean that I buy RTW only during sales, clearances, online, auctioned or thrifted.
post #369 of 1430
Thanks so much for that SeamasterLux.

I am going to Paris next October and my first place to go to will be Cifonelli. I plan to buy two jackets and was going to make that Travel Jacket one of them. However, I am a well rounded person and am concerned about the tight fit of their jackets. Should I be?
post #370 of 1430
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

By that, I mean that I buy RTW only during sales, clearances, online, auctioned or thrifted.

Thanks.

I am surprised these guys discount. Even in the sales.
post #371 of 1430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dandy Wonka View Post

I am going to Paris next October and my first place to go to will be Cifonelli. I plan to buy two jackets and was going to make that Travel Jacket one of them. However, I am a well rounded person and am concerned about the tight fit of their jackets. Should I be?

The Cifonelli house cut is notoriously tight around the chest, in part due to the shoulders which are turned forward. However, given the excellence of their tailoring skills, I am sure that they are quite accustomed to cutting perfectly fitting suits for all body types. Be prepared to feel a suit that fits tight however, since that is their style. It can catch certain customers off guard if they are used to loosely fitting suits. Once you become accustomed to tighter fitting suits, it's hard to go back and, if you're like me, you end up taking in your entire wardrobe.
post #372 of 1430
Thanks for the reply.

Being a classic "V" shape (unfortunately upside down though) I shy away from tight fitting clothes. It will certainly be a new experience.

Anyway, I have ten months so hopefully I can drop a couple of chins in the meantime.
post #373 of 1430
I brought the crazy red lace Aubercy when I was there in November. Now just waiting for it to show up.
post #374 of 1430
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

The Cifonelli house cut is notoriously tight around the chest, in part due to the shoulders which are turned forward. However, given the excellence of their tailoring skills, I am sure that they are quite accustomed to cutting perfectly fitting suits for all body types. Be prepared to feel a suit that fits tight however, since that is their style. It can catch certain customers off guard if they are used to loosely fitting suits. Once you become accustomed to tighter fitting suits, it's hard to go back and, if you're like me, you end up taking in your entire wardrobe.

Indeed, they stuffed me into a 50 as a guess and approved. Skin like, indeed, in the chest.
I wonder what size I am now with my incredible mass up?

I cannot recall a Cifo on someone who is very misshapen or extremely portly. I think the short and tight style of today is not so great for some bodies but Cifo should do a spot on job no matter the client. At least i would expect so.
post #375 of 1430
Thread Starter 
Dirnelli do you have pics of your cifonelli RTW? When do they have their RTW sales and what is the price point? Thanks.
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