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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 18

post #256 of 1050

I will visit Charvet's atelier this week. I hope I can take few good pictures...

 

"The world's first ever shirt shop"... best catch phrase in retail business. ; )

 

I found it strange to have a great house like Charvet doing exclusive sales at the Flagship store in Paris and in Bergdorf Goodman NY.

And they choose online retailer Mr Porter to sell their ready-to-wear...

 

What do you think about this brand positioning ?

 

 

I'm very intrigued by their style...Anyone order a suit at Charvet ?

post #257 of 1050
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

The stylistic flexibility of Charvet is intriguing.  In one of the photos Kuro helpfully posted one jacket has a cran necker and natural sleevehead, while the other has a straight cut lapel and a spalla camicia.

While I would be the first to defend and prefer more traditional fabrics, Chris Despos once wrote an interesting post on how some of the supers that he uses are durable, hold a crease, and respond well to alterations: http://www.styleforum.net/t/56404/unfunded-liabilities-a-k-a-the-cloth-thread/7200#post_6583091 


See also Chris' post on tailoring different fabrics: http://www.styleforum.net/t/207054/my-visit-to-napoli-mina-napoli-su-misura/2280#post_6050639
JefferyD had a bit of sartorial mythbusting on this point: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.ca/2011/02/sartorial-mythbusting.html


If I recall correctly, Dirnelli selected a super 180 for his elegant Camps de Luca suit.  How does the fabric wear and feel?

Interesting stuff there, CrimsonSox. Thank you. smile.gif

That being said, I still insist on more traditional fabrics like the ones I described. I also insist on traditional fabrics being English only. The exceptions to English only are cashmere (which I insist on being 16+ ounces, under super 100s thread count and Scottish only) and linen (which I insist on being Irish only).
post #258 of 1050
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuro View Post

Same. Also, I found it interesting that their fabric selection didn't seem to include any of the forum favorites. I only saw Drapers, Holland & Sherry, and Scabal.

I also found that interesting, Kuro. Great minds think alike. wink.gif
post #259 of 1050
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY View Post


Interesting stuff there, CrimsonSox. Thank you. smile.gif

That being said, I still insist on more traditional fabrics like the ones I described. I also insist on traditional fabrics being English only. The exceptions to English only are cashmere (which I insist on being 16+ ounces, under super 100s thread count and Scottish only) and linen (which I insist on being Irish only).

 

Where do get 16oz Scottish cashmere as a matter of interest?  Is this as a jacketing or coating?

post #260 of 1050
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY View Post

Interesting stuff there, CrimsonSox. Thank you. smile.gif

That being said, I still insist on more traditional fabrics like the ones I described. I also insist on traditional fabrics being English only. The exceptions to English only are cashmere (which I insist on being 16+ ounces, under super 100s thread count and Scottish only) and linen (which I insist on being Irish only).

Wow. You are really missing out on some great fabrics.
post #261 of 1050
OK guys, Ox's blowup and the surrounding noise by others has been cleaned up. Ox has been given the rest of the month off. Let's keep this great thread on topic from now on.
post #262 of 1050
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

If I recall correctly, Dirnelli selected a super 180 for his elegant Camps de Luca suit.  How does the fabric wear and feel?

Yes, a S180's by Schofield that is truly amazing, no idea which bunch it comes from, wish I knew. Schofield offered 2 suiting lengths to CdL gratis as a demo, so it may even have been a prototype limited run. Marc de Luca had made up the first length for himself and was really impressed by the fabric -- he would pull the suit out of his suitcase at his hotel and it was still in perfect shape. He convinced me to try it by letting me have it at the entry level suit cost, since it was leftover demo fabric, so I jumped on the unique opportunity to try a S180 without paying the premium associated with high Supers.

This fabric holds a trouser crease (and the signature CdL vents crease) like nothing I've ever seen. I was totally surprised, as all of my other high Super suits are quite the opposite, rumpling like kleenex.

From this I learned that the Super # itself is predictive of nothing about fabric behaviour -- it also depends on weight and how the fabric is woven (e.g. ultra high twist? what is mixed in? ) So, you can have high & low Super numbers that behave similarly, it just really all depends.

(Glad this thread has enabled us to collectively debunk a few tailoring myths that get repeated unquestionably & ad nauseam on the fora.)
post #263 of 1050
^ Dirnelli, could you post of a photo of the cdl creased vents? I forgot to ask to see when I was there last month. thanks in advance.
Edited by Kuro - 10/14/13 at 8:12pm
post #264 of 1050
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Yes, a S180's by Schofield that is truly amazing, no idea which bunch it comes from, wish I knew. Schofield offered 2 suiting lengths to CdL gratis as a demo, so it may even have been a prototype limited run. Marc de Luca had made up the first length for himself and was really impressed by the fabric -- he would pull the suit out of his suitcase at his hotel and it was still in perfect shape. He convinced me to try it by letting me have it at the entry level suit cost, since it was leftover demo fabric, so I jumped on the unique opportunity to try a S180 without paying the premium associated with high Supers.

This fabric holds a trouser crease (and the signature CdL vents crease) like nothing I've ever seen. I was totally surprised, as all of my other high Super suits are quite the opposite, rumpling like kleenex.

From this I learned that the Super # itself is predictive of nothing about fabric behaviour -- it also depends on weight and how the fabric is woven (e.g. ultra high twist? what is mixed in? ) So, you can have high & low Super numbers that behave similarly, it just really all depends.

(Glad this thread has enabled us to collectively debunk a few tailoring myths that get repeated unquestionably & ad nauseam on the fora.)

A S180 with the handling of a traditional cloth can't be cheap. Congrats at getting it gratis. I'd be curious to know the premium for it at full price at CdL.
post #265 of 1050

Oh, just out of curiosity, did you guys meet Cifonelli in NYC, or in Paris?

How "often" are the fittings if done in NYC?  Like from start to finish what is a reasonable expectation for the duration of a commission?  Did any of you guys fly into NYC to have the work done or are you guys native?  Thanks for all the information btw!

post #266 of 1050
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuro View Post

^ Dirnelli, could you post of a photo of the cdl creased vents? I forgot to ask to see when I was there last month. thanks in advance.

Here you go:

post #267 of 1050
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Here you go:

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SonofGoldman View Post

Oh, just out of curiosity, did you guys meet Cifonelli in NYC, or in Paris?


How "often" are the fittings if done in NYC?  Like from start to finish what is a reasonable expectation for the duration of a commission?  Did any of you guys fly into NYC to have the work done or are you guys native?  Thanks for all the information btw!

Both for me. They visit 5 - 6 times year, every other month or so. Time frame is going to depend on how many fittings you want/need and consider that it may be better to go slower the first time. Also, how many other orders they have and the time of year (e.g., they are closed in August) are also factors.
post #268 of 1050
For kicks, since I walk past it all the time:

post #269 of 1050

One of the most extraordinary things I've ever heard Charlie Davidson of the Andover Shop say was that the best suits in Europe were from Camps de Luca.  It's striking given his vast experience over 80 years with style and clothing.  

 

Dirnelli, I was reading your highly informative and comprehensive reviews of different suits and tailors: http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/49814477662/review-of-tailors-and-suits-ive-owned  The handwork, as both Charlie and JefferyD would agree, is unsurpassed, and perhaps matched only by a few other tailors in Paris.  But I was curious about how the bespoke experience at Camps exceeded your expectations, compared to the other famous tailoring houses.  You mentioned that other bespoke experiences left you feeling somewhat unsatisfied, but that Camps more than met what you wanted  I was wondering how they did so (perhaps in commitment to getting the fit right, and other respects)?  I think Paul-Lux had a similar experience, as RJman relates.

post #270 of 1050
Many thanks for the input, dirnelli! It's fascinating to read about French tailoring, specifically posts not tied to advertising deals, like PG must have.
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