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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 107

post #1591 of 1737
HighToned, he did share the scan on his Tumblr but the name was blurred. Your version has spilled the beans and all is lost...
post #1592 of 1737
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post
 

Unfortunately not as I've had a very hectic travel schedule for work and therefore haven't been able to do my next fitting.

Yes I can see from your instagram that you have done a considerable amount of travelling. I am very excited about mine and was incredibly impressed at just how quickly they had fittings ready for me, the first one took no more than 18 hours which was done with scrap cloth. Rather special.

post #1593 of 1737
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrotShopSpecial View Post
 

Yes I can see from your instagram that you have done a considerable amount of travelling. I am very excited about mine and was incredibly impressed at just how quickly they had fittings ready for me, the first one took no more than 18 hours which was done with scrap cloth. Rather special.

 

Indeed, rather hectic schedule. But I enjoy it. I'm a sartorial no man's land for the time being in Colorado but the region has many other advantages.

 

Was your 6x1 from Cifo?

post #1594 of 1737
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post
 

 

Indeed, rather hectic schedule. But I enjoy it. I'm a sartorial no man's land for the time being in Colorado but the region has many other advantages.

 

Was your 6x1 from Cifo?

 

I live in a sartorial desert all year round so I feel your pain. Yes it is from Cifo. I also spoke to Kenjiro today on the phone and I am hoping to visit his atelier when I go to Paris in two weeks, he is a very friendly chap and was more than happy to talk to me even though he is obviously swamped as he is doing most of the work on his own. Starting price at 3500 euros seems very reasonable for a man with his impressive background. Have you had any experience with his work?

post #1595 of 1737
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrotShopSpecial View Post
 

 

I live in a sartorial desert all year round so I feel your pain. Yes it is from Cifo. I also spoke to Kenjiro today on the phone and I am hoping to visit his atelier when I go to Paris in two weeks, he is a very friendly chap and was more than happy to talk to me even though he is obviously swamped as he is doing most of the work on his own. Starting price at 3500 euros seems very reasonable for a man with his impressive background. Have you had any experience with his work?

 

Yes I have. As it is a rather disappointing experience, I tend not to share about it. It's hard to judge a tailor on one commission but it didn't make me want to commission another one admittedly. 

post #1596 of 1737
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post
 

 

Yes I have. As it is a rather disappointing experience, I tend not to share about it. It's hard to judge a tailor on one commission but it didn't make me want to commission another one admittedly. 

 

Fair enough. I sent you a PM if you would rather not post anything else re KS on the public board.

post #1597 of 1737
French works on display at the PG book launch bonanza in Milan.

IMG_9575.jpeg
post #1598 of 1737
The second from left is not French but Italian (Caraceni) FWIW.
post #1599 of 1737

noticed more pictures up on the @SeamasterLux blog of his cifo travel jacket. Further affirming my belief that its a perfect design. My lust continues. 

post #1600 of 1737

subscribed

post #1601 of 1737
Thread Starter 
I saw the Cifonelli RTW collection at Barney's today. They have at least 2 different jacket styles. The one that really piqued my interest was a sport coat with the prominent sleevehead (presumably the "Le Cigarette" style for which they are known).




There is very little padding in the shoulders, most of the extra material is in the sleevehead. I think the silhouette is flattering on me, though quite different from the other coats I own. IMO the pattern and material doesn't go with the silhouette but made me reconsider ponying up the $$$ for Cifonelli bespoke.

There were other coats in the collection with a more generic shoulder expression that hold little interest for me.

The round label is sewn in like the bespoke. Does the bespoke version have an associated functional pocket or is it just for show?

The lapel buttonhole is a nicely done Boutonniere Milanese.
post #1602 of 1737
^ the only label on the bespoke is on the inside of the interior pocket. You can't see it unless you are looking inside of the pocket. In terms of whether the pocket is functional, that is certainly their default. But they will do whatever you want.
A
post #1603 of 1737
Some examples of Cifo bespoke interior jacket pockets:





post #1604 of 1737
Thread Starter 
So bespoke Cifonelli doesn't have this?




I thought this detail was supposed to imitate this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

The label is set into a pocket which is very laborious to make and serves no purpose other than to draw attention to the amount of work done on the garment. It's the tailoring equivalent of melisma- a "see what I can do?".


Hmm. Interesting.
post #1605 of 1737
I'm sure they will put that in the bespoke if you want it. But this is the only label on any of mine:

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