French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[Griffindork]

The most interesting part of the article to me was Lorenzo Cifonelli stating that developing a RTW line was the only way for the business to grow. I wonder if they are effectively at capacity for customers. Their turnaround time is remarkable, but when you only have two cutters there is simply a limit on what can be produced.

 

[Kuro]

Yes, it is difficult to imagine the bespoke business growing without there being in drop in quality/execution, or delays in orders.

I've also wondered whether the same "hands" are assigned throughout the process for every order from a given customer (like Rubinacci).

Anyway, regarding Cifo's RTW aspirations when you look at Smalto or say Berluti I suppose it is hard to fault Lorenzo for wanting to expand.

A Cifo rtw:http://engrandepompe.forumpersos.com/t3715-cifonelli-pap

 

[HighToned]

You're forgetting that Cifonelli got Mr Rousseau, Mr Gonzales and the biggest atelier in Paris around 25-30 people.

Too bad, we can't read WWD article. I hope Cifonelli can to expand in RTW.

The good thing is fitting-. Retouch can be made upstair in the workshop.
The problem is space. Their RTW shop is pretty small and the rent near Champs Elysées is expensive !

 

[Griffindork]

My understanding is that only Massimo and Lorenzo cut the suits.

 

[paristailor]

Article WWD
https://www.facebook.com/CampsDeLuca

 

[HighToned]

My understanding is that only Massimo and Lorenzo cut the suits.

I never see Gonzales cutting but he still got plenty of customers.
I wanted to said that they are not organized like British tailors, but Cifonelli is the biggest workshop I have see.

Talking about Cifonelli, Alexander Kraft new video is out. ; )


Mr.Kraft got a beautiful jacket from Cifonelli !

Thank you for sharing WWD article.
It's funny because I recently visit Mr. Vincent Smith workshop.

Vincent Smith is a very nice guy, passionate about military clothing and tailoring.
He is the biggest menswear modelist in rtw business in France. (Christophe Lemaire, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Kenzo, Paul & Joe...etc)
Sometimes, he is a teacher at fashion school in Paris.

He created a small atelier with 3 old craftsman and 3 young apprentices (part time school / part time atelier).
This a tiny collection called "Tailored by Mr Smith" with only few garments each season all handmade in Paris.

If you want to see more about it -> http://www.high-toned.fr/en/2014/04/visit-of-tailored-by-mr-smith/

 

[lysandar]

Has Profilo Italiano been discussed at any length in this thread? Certainly not French tailoring, but it is based in Paris so...

I saw a few posts by Dirnelli and Paul-lux, and a very (very!) short forum thread on engrandepompe, both of which give me a very mixed view (value for money shirting program, jacketing quality questionable). Does anyone have more experience and is willing to share?

PS If anyone knows whether English is a viable means of communicating in the store, I would be much obliged for the heads up.

 

[SeamasterLux]

Has Profilo Italiano been discussed at any length in this thread? Certainly not French tailoring, but it is based in Paris so...

I saw a few posts by Dirnelli and Paul-lux, and a very (very!) short forum thread on engrandepompe, both of which give me a very mixed view (value for money shirting program, jacketing quality questionable). Does anyone have more experience and is willing to share?

PS If anyone knows whether English is a viable means of communicating in the store, I would be much obliged for the heads up.

Valid question: Shirts are indeed pretty good and fit well. MTM suits are rather disappointing as far as I'm concerned. I've had to work around the suit with my alteration tailor so that it would look decent. The balance of the jacket was completely off...

Foreign languages is not his strongest asset but as every Italian, he explains with his hands very well

 

[thenitwit]

So...Paris. How much are we talking for MTM sports jackets and shirts as brackets? I'm due to go there soon and was thinking I may build my wardrobe staples with the conversion rate of the GBP to EUR but wasn't sure how much I'd be looking at. Central Paris and easy to find ish. I imagine it would be quite expensive still?

 

[SeamasterLux]

So...Paris. How much are we talking for MTM sports jackets and shirts as brackets? I'm due to go there soon and was thinking I may build my wardrobe staples with the conversion rate of the GBP to EUR but wasn't sure how much I'd be looking at. Central Paris and easy to find ish. I imagine it would be quite expensive still?

Depends on where you order them from of course

If you're talking entry level MTM (Gambler, Handson, Wickett, Artling): we're talking 450-700 EUR for a sport coat (fused)

Mid-range MTM (Ohnona, Dandys, Tailormail, Scavini): 900-1300 EUR

Top tier MTM (Orazio Luciano for Tailormail, Diagné, etc.): 1500+

Shirts range from 120 EUR approximately to 250 EUR in MTM. It can be much more expensive depending on the fabric.
But I would go towards the end of the range at 240 EUR with Lucca who does fully bespoke.

Otherwise opt for Profilo Italiano at approx 140-170 EUR per shirt in MTM if you don't want bespoke.

 

[thenitwit]

Depends on where you order them from of course

If you're talking entry level MTM (Gambler, Handson, Wickett, Artling): we're talking 450-700 EUR for a sport coat (fused)

Mid-range MTM (Ohnona, Dandys, Tailormail, Scavini): 900-1300 EUR

Top tier MTM (Orazio Luciano for Tailormail, Diagné, etc.): 1500+

Shirts range from 120 EUR approximately to 250 EUR in MTM. It can be much more expensive depending on the fabric.
But I would go towards the end of the range at 240 EUR with Lucca who does fully bespoke.

Otherwise opt for Profilo Italiano at approx 140-170 EUR per shirt in MTM if you don't want bespoke.

I rang Artling and managed to speak English to them (my French is poor) and they came back with 800 euros starting for a jacket. Is there any way to get MTM with a half canvas around the 500 euro mark? I'll only be there for a few weeks so not sure if it is actually worth getting them MTM or resorting to the online MTM options. Was just a thought so thought I'd get an idea of figures. If not, are you aware of anything maybe outside of Paris but not too far that is a good deal?

I presumed fused isn't worth it having read a fair bit on here and the basic should be half canvas.

Thanks for the information. .

 

[SeamasterLux]

I rang Artling and managed to speak English to them (my French is poor) and they came back with 800 euros starting for a jacket. Is there any way to get MTM with a half canvas around the 500 euro mark? I'll only be there for a few weeks so not sure if it is actually worth getting them MTM or resorting to the online MTM options. Was just a thought so thought I'd get an idea of figures. If not, are you aware of anything maybe outside of Paris but not too far that is a good deal?

I presumed fused isn't worth it having read a fair bit on here and the basic should be half canvas.

Thanks for the information. .

Wrong information. Artling starts at 800 for suits, not jackets.

No way you'll find MTM with half canvas around 500 EUR. Online isn't nearly the same thing. Opt for Boggi or Suit Supply in that price range and go RTW.

No option that I know of outside of Paris that would be around that price area

 

[thenitwit]

Wrong information. Artling starts at 800 for suits, not jackets.

No way you'll find MTM with half canvas around 500 EUR. Online isn't nearly the same thing. Opt for Boggi or Suit Supply in that price range and go RTW.

No option that I know of outside of Paris that would be around that price area

I understand Suit Supply is a half canvas? What's Boggi like?

Thanks for the advice, again.

 

[Kuro]

 

[Griffindork]

The fantastic Romain Le Dantec!