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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.) - Page 10

post #136 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit50 View Post

That said, they might be amenable but even with best intentions, having the work done on the quick and just not having a bit of time to to view the fit with a refreshed eye might hurt the final product.

Knowing CdL, that would not be their style at all to let a client walk away with an unfinished or imperfect garment. They would just as soon not do than do wrong -- they are not wanting for business and I have known them to politely refuse client requests deemed by them misguided.
post #137 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

A CdL suit takes 70 hours to make. Not sure it's realistic to expect one made in a week.

Thanks. I do not know how much of those 70-80 hours is fitting versus "finishing" the suit after fit is satisfied.

I suppose I'll ask Charles de Luca himself someday.

- M
post #138 of 1038
I've added some photos of the Camps de Luca fittings here:

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/search/camps+de+luca
post #139 of 1038

Looks really nice

post #140 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Lorenzo can communicate in English. No problems at all. You can also contact Romain at Cifonelli in Paris who speaks flawless English.

Lorenzo speaks very good English and I have found Romain to be fantastic. I have really come to admire my Cifonelli garments. I have used Huntsman, A&S and Cifonelli. I find them all great, but they are all different. The handwork on Cifonelli is world class-- especially the stitching. Cifonelli, as many of you have said, is really in between Huntsman and Italian tailors. A&S is different, but equally worth it, in my opinion. It took me some time to get used to Cifonelli but I really admire it.
post #141 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Nonsie View Post

Lorenzo speaks very good English and I have found Romain to be fantastic. I have really come to admire my Cifonelli garments. I have used Huntsman, A&S and Cifonelli. I find them all great, but they are all different. The handwork on Cifonelli is world class-- especially the stitching. Cifonelli, as many of you have said, is really in between Huntsman and Italian tailors. A&S is different, but equally worth it, in my opinion. It took me some time to get used to Cifonelli but I really admire it.

Agree with you...

I have Cifonelli ,Huntsman,Norton and A&S garments and the finishing on my Cifonelli one are perfect..

Lorenzo english is quite good..
post #142 of 1038
CdL is opening a shop in Asia. Pretty surprising move -- http://blogs.wsj.com/scene/2012/02/15/french-menswear-house-mulls-southeast-asia/
Quote:
Originally Posted by lasbar View Post

Agree with you...

I have Cifonelli ,Huntsman,Norton and A&S garments and the finishing on my Cifonelli one are perfect..

Lorenzo english is quite good..

How good is Cifonelli's finishing -- I haven't handled their garments before.

What's the main difference, finishing-wise, between the English tailors and Cifonelli?
post #143 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

CdL is opening a shop in Asia. Pretty surprising move -- http://blogs.wsj.com/scene/2012/02/15/french-menswear-house-mulls-southeast-asia/
How good is Cifonelli's finishing -- I haven't handled their garments before.

What's the main difference, finishing-wise, between the English tailors and Cifonelli?

Yes, I wanted them in a different Asian location but they want to run the show completely on their own terms which is a fair stance. But I respect the decision and would have also respected not opening any location outside of Paris. I favor exclusivity, actually, not for snobbish reasons but just because at some point it comes upon the slippery slope. As long as they keep their standards, everything is fine.

I am not familiar with so many English tailors but enough people(on SF and elsewhere) seem to be of the opinion that much of the finishing is a bit short of what one might expect. Perhaps many are taking shortcuts? I do not know. I have seen some suits from English tailors that look great. Some, not so much but that is for anywhere if you take enough houses into account.

I think Cifo and CdL pop in their detail for the most part. The styling is what is is, maybe you like it, maybe not.
You should hop on the Eurostar and make a day of it.

I'll be in Paris soon for a bit, myself.
post #144 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

CdL is opening a shop in Asia. Pretty surprising move -- http://blogs.wsj.com/scene/2012/02/15/french-menswear-house-mulls-southeast-asia/
How good is Cifonelli's finishing -- I haven't handled their garments before.

What's the main difference, finishing-wise, between the English tailors and Cifonelli?

Anderson ones were so so..
post #145 of 1038
Plenty of great info in this thread. I'm expecting this one to become the thread to end all other threads on French tailoring. Many thanks to all who share their time for contributions.
post #146 of 1038
Having been in Asia for a bit, I'm not convinced KL is an ideal springboard into the greater Asia region, from a commercial (or sartorial) perspective, but rents in KL are much cheaper than in Singapore, for instance, where there is the largest concentration of millionaires, and HK where there is a concentration of tailors.

Hopefully they'll do fine and their standards don't slip.

I understand that the Cifonelli silhouette, unlike the soft coats of Naples, are slightly more built up? In that case, it's probably not that far a jump for me, given my experience with English tailors.
post #147 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

CdL is opening a shop in Asia. Pretty surprising move -- http://blogs.wsj.com/scene/2012/02/15/french-menswear-house-mulls-southeast-asia/
How good is Cifonelli's finishing -- I haven't handled their garments before.

What's the main difference, finishing-wise, between the English tailors and Cifonelli?

Kuala Lumpur

interesting choice, if you asked me I would imagine anyone going to Asia would be setting shop in Hong Kong/Singapore/Tokyo/ or even Shanghai/Beijing or Seoul/Taipei before it gets to Kuala Lumpur
post #148 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Having been in Asia for a bit, I'm not convinced KL is an ideal springboard into the greater Asia region, from a commercial (or sartorial) perspective, but rents in KL are much cheaper than in Singapore, for instance, where there is the largest concentration of millionaires, and HK where there is a concentration of tailors.

Hopefully they'll do fine and their standards don't slip.

I understand that the Cifonelli silhouette, unlike the soft coats of Naples, are slightly more built up? In that case, it's probably not that far a jump for me, given my experience with English tailors.

I think Cifonelli's cut are more than the classic british (strong roped shoulder, relatively lean chest, clean back and lightly nipped wait).
Overall, French tailoring always concentrate on the finishing, stiff shape all done by hand.

I think KL is a good location, plenty of underrate client. I don't think they cater for the hobbyist.
post #149 of 1038
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Kuala Lumpur

interesting choice, if you asked me I would imagine anyone going to Asia would be setting shop in Hong Kong/Singapore/Tokyo/ or even Shanghai/Beijing or Seoul/Taipei before it gets to Kuala Lumpur

Same sentiments.
post #150 of 1038
People from the gulf on vacation spend in KL not HK.
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