French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[Dandy Wonka]



Dandy Wonka,
For Cifo, I think it will depend on how close the first fitting is. Lorenzo has in the past made pretty significant alterations to a jacket overnight in a hotel room in New York City, but that is after my pattern was pretty good.

I am hoping it is a couple of days after first measure - before I go away.

 

[dirnelli]

FWIW -- It's interesting to note that the Smalto notch lapel below, with its trademark French bespoke ‘frogmouth’, is in fact a midway point between the lapel design of the classic lounge notch and the design of the peaked lapel.

 

[Dandy Wonka]



I really don't understand why someone would take this approach, or why a tailor would agree to work under such conditions. Why add time constraints to the process?

Yes Cifonelli can do great work but **** happens. For example, on the last suit that they made for me there were fit issues (e.g., wonky shoulders) and it needed to be returned twice for alterations. It was my 3rd suit with them without any requested changes to the pattern or any shortened delivery time....

If you had to fly 24 hours to get to Paris and you really want the best you would understand why someone would take such an approach. It's about making the best of a bad situation.

Worst case they end up sending it to me. Possibly not perfect. Possibly I have to take it to a tailor here or send it back to them. Well worth the risk for mine.

I just got my first pair of Aubercy shoes delivered. They were too big. Luckily i went with Xavier's advice to make one of the four pairs to try for size first. I arranged to call them on FaceTime wearing the shoes and was able to show them where they were too big. I have now sent them back to be altered. The bonus was that I got to speak again with Xavier and his wonderful papa. Now I am looking forward to getting the pair back and they assure me they will be perfect. If not we will do it again.

Sadly Down Under we don't have the luxury of jumping in a cab to go to these places - or even a train.

 

[Romain]



FWIW -- It's interesting to note that the Smalto notch lapel below, with its trademark French bespoke ‘frogmouth’, is in fact a midway point between the lapel design of the classic lounge notch and the design of the peaked lapel.

Hi Dirnelli, I believe it is actually called a fishmouth lapel

You can see many variations of this kind of lapel here, from C to H (french text, sorry): http://stiff-collar.com/2012/05/28/les-revers-parisiens/

 

[dirnelli]

You are correct re fishmouth, but Marc de Luca told me the SR tailors call it 'frogmouth' because of the jeer at the French. The italians call it 'bocca di lupo', or wolf mouth.

 

[lasbar]



FWIW -- It's interesting to note that the Smalto notch lapel below, with its trademark French bespoke ‘frogmouth’, is in fact a midway point between the lapel design of the classic lounge notch and the design of the peaked lapel.

I like that even if I mustn't according to my sartorial credo..

 

[dirnelli]

What is your credo?

 

[dopey]



You are correct re fishmouth, but Marc de Luca told me the SR tailors call it 'frogmouth' because of the jeer at the French. The italians call it 'bocca di lupo', or wolf mouth.

Maybe de Luca heard that said as a joke, but on SR Frogmouth refers to a horizontal opening on trouser hip pockets. And I have also heard them refer to those lapels as fish mouth.

 

[HighToned]

Hi Dirnelli, I believe it is actually called a fishmouth lapel

You can see many variations of this kind of lapel here, from C to H (french text, sorry): http://stiff-collar.com/2012/05/28/les-revers-parisiens/

This week, I went to Kenjiro Sukuzi, he showed me all the lapels he devellopped during his time at Smalto.
It was pretty impresive, he got around 150 shapes.

 

[Kuro]

...

 

[TheFoo]



You are correct re fishmouth, but Marc de Luca told me the SR tailors call it 'frogmouth' because of the jeer at the French. The italians call it 'bocca di lupo', or wolf mouth.

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but you can have a fishmouth notch without the extended lapels. In the picture posted, the lapel is extended beyond the collar--very much reminiscent of a "hybrid peak." I seem to recall seeing versions where there is no such extension, but the angle of the notch is the same (leavint the top edge of the lapel more or less parallel to the ground).

If so, which tailor does which? Or is it not tailor-specific?

 

[HighToned]

Hi,

Apologies to all if this is slightly off topic for this thread, but how is Aubercy going to alter the fit of rtw shoes?
I've only heard the term fish mouth as well...

Xavier Aubercy is now devellopping bespoke service with a Japanese shoemakers at rue Vivienne.
Maybe he will do something, even it's RTW.

Or maybe he will pick the right size when Dandy Wonka will be in Paris.

I came at the shop, just by looking my feet. Xavier pick me the perfect size.
It's my second pair of Aubercy and I'm pretty happy about it.

 

[dirnelli]

Smalto, Diagne = extendend edge
Camps de Luca, Gonzales, Kenjiro Suzuki = non-extended edge

The traditional fishmouth is non-extended, but Smalto made a name for himself with this assymetrical version, subsequently copied by Diagne.

 

[Kuro]

...

 

[TheFoo]



Smalto, Diagne = extendend edge
Camps de Luca, Gonzales, Kenjiro Suzuki = non-extended edge

The traditional fishmouth is non-extended, but Smalto made a name for himself with this assymetrical version, subsequently copied by Diagne.

Cifonelli?

I very much like the fishmouth, but not so much the extended version. To my mind, it is too close to a peak lapel to be suitable for more casual jackets.

It's a lovely regional eccentricity. I wouldn't want to have it on any other jacket, but would want all my Parisian jackets made that way. If I had a Parisian tailor.