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For those that have had a made to measure suit

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 

SF,

 

I am getting ready to embark on my first suit that is made to measure. I am going to Brooks Brothers to get a M2M golden fleece. I like the fact that I can have a more modern cut then the fitzgerald and I like the fact that I can select my fabric. 

 

Since I have never embarked on a M2M suit before, what are some DO'S and DONT'S of the road. I am going to be buying only one at first, and then once it comes back seeing how it fits and getting anywhere from 3-5 more.

 

What are your tips for those who have had a M2M??


Edited by 2themoon - 4/28/13 at 7:30pm
post #2 of 22
Thread Starter 

someone has to be a made to measure expert :) 

post #3 of 22
You are already doing the most important thing-start with one. Then make adjustments on the next one/several.

Think about how you intend to wear the suit and keep any options to well within that picture. Conservative suit for important business presentations? Might think twice about that contrasting buttonhole stitching. In other words, just because you can, doesn't mean you should. All those MTM options are tempting, but I have seen first time abominations with everything under the sun all on one suit (hacking pockets, contrast stitching, buttonholes on both lapels, bright pink lining, etc, etc...)
post #4 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flake View Post

You are already doing the most important thing-start with one. Then make adjustments on the next one/several.

Think about how you intend to wear the suit and keep any options to well within that picture. Conservative suit for important business presentations? Might think twice about that contrasting buttonhole stitching. In other words, just because you can, doesn't mean you should. All those MTM options are tempting, but I have seen first time abominations with everything under the sun all on one suit (hacking pockets, contrast stitching, buttonholes on both lapels, bright pink lining, etc, etc...)

I am going to be wearing all of the suits for business settings. I will not be getting anything fancy. Has anyone had luck with brooks brothers M2M? 

post #5 of 22
I believe with BB MTM that you start with one of their existing models (Fitz, Milano, etc), and then make minor adjustments so it fits you better. Unless you want to make drastic changes, I don't think you can go too far wrong.
post #6 of 22
Be sure you have someone who really knows what they are doing take your measurements. Measure twice to be sure. BB has some knowledgable folks. And some not much.
post #7 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendragon View Post

I believe with BB MTM that you start with one of their existing models (Fitz, Milano, etc), and then make minor adjustments so it fits you better. Unless you want to make drastic changes, I don't think you can go too far wrong.

What you described is MTO or made to order. Real MTM would be them taking his measurements and then building a fitz, milano, etc (as they still use existing patterns) around his measurements
post #8 of 22
Make sure that if the suit doesnt work your not stuck. I work for Nordstrom and we do a lot of MTM but a customer is never stuck with it if it doesnt come out right. We will continue to order until it comes out exactly how you want it.
post #9 of 22

I have purchased a number of BB MTM suits. There are essentially two options: the 1818 line which is half canvas construction (floating chest piece) and made in their MA factory and the Golden Fleece line which is full canvas construction and made in their NY factory. Which you select is dependent on two things: how much you want to spend and what fabric you choose (certain fabrics are for one line and not the other).

 

In general, with both options, they will take a fairly comprehensive series of measurements and then discuss the pattern style (Fitzgerald versus Madison, etc.). The results are usually very good, but expect that you will need at least two rounds of adjustments with the local in-store tailor once your suit comes in.

 

Do:

 

Make sure you use the same tailor at each step otherwise things can go terribly wrong.

Have a good idea of what style suit you are looking for; they can make just about anything you could want, but walking in without a concept in mind can end with a mess of a suit and a lot of unwanted doodads and associated costs.

Take the time to pick the fabric you want (color, weight, etc.).

Be prepared for the whole measuring, fabric selection process and ordering to take at least 90 minutes to 2 hours.

Expect to pay ~ 2000 dollars for a 3 piece MTM if half canvas, ~ 3000+ for 3 piece if full canvas + "Saxxon" wool, etc. (that is with various discounts you undoubtedly be offered - don't keel over when the initial numbers come in higher).

 

Don't:

 

Let the salesman talk you into things you don't want.

Fail to spend enough time with the tailor; he should be your sounding board and guide, not the salesman.

Focus on anything else but the MTM process on that particular visit to the store.

Let them put buttons, button holes, etc. at the factory; have them prep for details but let the store tailor finalize those items (I don't know if this is an option everywhere, or just in NY).

 

I have had good experiences with the BB MTM process at their NY store and have been very happy with the suits produced (they are much better today than during their ownership under Marks & Spencer). There is, IMHO, no comparison between the BB MTM suits versus their OTR counterparts; even if line-labels (1818, Golden Fleece, etc.) are the same, the MTM stuff is worlds better (and you pay for it smile.gif).

 

Good luck!

post #10 of 22
Made to measure suits really need precise measurements or it will look like a disaster.
post #11 of 22
Thread Starter 

can you define precise measurements?

post #12 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2themoon View Post

SF,

 

I am getting ready to embark on my first suit that is made to measure. I am going to Brooks Brothers to get a M2M golden fleece. I like the fact that I can have a more modern cut then the fitzgerald and I like the fact that I can select my fabric. 

 

Considering the huge investment you are about to make,  make sure you are comfortable with the fact that a modern cut may  look outdated in a couple of years once this fashion trend goes away in a couple of years.

post #13 of 22

I used to get quite a lot of MTM stuff, and still have a large chunk of it in my wardrobe. My advice:

 

- be measured by someone who is trained & experiencing in measuring clients for custom orders. A tailor or fitter is ideal, and they should hopefully be familiar with any minor pecularities of the factory's block pattern and how it alters with changes in size/shape and what other tweaks to the order form may therefore be needed to compensate for this. This is particularly important if your build is at any extreme of the normal spectrum of variation, but applies to some extent to everyone.

- the better MTM operations acknowledge that some tweaking is still generally needed once the suit arrives, and won't charge extra for this (within reason). It's often minor stuff, but important nonetheless.

- don't expect bespoke; it isn't bespoke and you're being charged a lot less to reflect this. In my experience, the hardest thing for MTM to achieve is the accurate shaping of a jacket through the torso from chest through to the hips. It's almost always "flatter" and less three-dimensionally contoured than bespoke. Not sure why. This may or may not be an issue for you, depending on your expectations/needs. Talking of which...

- Whether MTM is good value depends on your personal circumstances, expectations, the fitter, factory and price point. Only you can really judge this. For my own needs, I find it's a great option for trousers, but less so for jackets/suits, so those I generally either order bespoke or (if it's an item I'm less fussy about) buy RTW from a brand/line that already fits me pretty well. But ymmv definitely applies.

 

Good luck!

post #14 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

 In my experience, the hardest thing for MTM to achieve is the accurate shaping of a jacket through the torso from chest through to the hips. It's almost always "flatter" and less three-dimensionally contoured than bespoke. Not sure why.

 

My experience so far has been the same. I suspect it has to do with the fact that I need a short size, yet the block pattern is for a regular size, so the waist suppression is lower than it should and thus shaping is not optimal. I get a much better fit  thru the body with short RTW jackets than with my current MTM stuff. More shape. I tried on a drop 7, short size RTW jacket yesterday and was surprised at how good the body looked. OP, If you use a short, long or otherwise not regular size, let your fitter know about this detail - he might just alter jacket and sleeve length and that's far from optimal.

post #15 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

 In my experience, the hardest thing for MTM to achieve is the accurate shaping of a jacket through the torso from chest through to the hips. It's almost always "flatter" and less three-dimensionally contoured than bespoke. Not sure why.

 

My experience so far has been the same. I suspect it has to do with the fact that I need a short size, yet the block pattern is for a regular size, so the waist suppression is lower than it should and thus shaping is not optimal. I get a much better fit  thru the body with short RTW jackets than with my current MTM stuff. More shape. I tried on a drop 7, short size RTW jacket yesterday and was surprised at how good the body looked. OP, If you use a short, long or otherwise not regular size, let your fitter know about this detail - he might just alter jacket and sleeve length and that's far from optimal.


Funnily enough, drop 7 short length stuff tends to work out best for me in RTW too. The chest and waist fit a lot neater & less work needs doing to tidy up the back. I hadn't thought to compare my MTM items to the drop 7 items, as they're newer and I haven't ordered an MTM jacket/suit in a while so its not really a fair comparison in my case. I will say this though: I used to be really satisfied with the SB jackets I got MTM, but the factory altered ("updated") the block pattern they used some years ago, and since then, the fit was never as good (despite tweaking of measurements and post-delivery adjustment). I got a DB tux after the change which was fine, but the SB stuff just never looked quite as good as before. Hence my switch to either bespoke or RTW. So the block really can make a lot of difference to the final MTM look and some just won't be quite as good for one's specific build, regardless of playing around with measurements. How much of this is universally applicable, I don't know, but that's my personal experience.

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