I can't speak for any tailors in the US as I'm English and have recently moved away from bespoke work.
My advice to you is this: look at suits that you like. On TV, in magazines, in shops. Take pictures, take notes, what ever you need to but pay attention to the details rather than the finished article. Do you like the shape of that pocket flap? Did light brown buttons on a dark blue cloth look classic or boring to you? Do you like your shoulders to look herculean, or do you like to down-play your breadth?
Once you've got a feel for the bits you like and the bits you don't you can start working out which tailor might cut in a way that you find attractive. Check out a few of the Savile Row chaps - they almost all have regular trips to NYC. Google for some reputable tailors in your area; you can often weed-out the bad ones by checking here to see some reviews, and doing things as simple as asking to meet the cutter, rather than the salesman. Ask if their stuff is made on-site. Hell, I'd like to see if you could get Tom Ford to do bespoke, simply as I don't know any Mortal who has managed it. Normally thats reserved for celebrities and those in seats of power.
If that fails then come back to us with a "specification" and we can point you to someone who will be able to do well.
The thing to remember is this; the garment may take 3 months just to get to the first fitting if your tailor travels to NYC from elsewhere. A finished garment may be a year away.
The thrill of bespoke is knowing that your garment will last you 20 years. That no one else has the same item, that your chunky thighs or wobbly elbows are taken care of properly. Buying is a solution, commissioning is an experience.
Thanks for the awesome advice.
I have learned so much from this thread it's incredible . I'm now obsessed with learning everything about this really cool hobby.
Now about Tom Ford .....yes he absolutely does bespoke for anyone who will pay; he also does made to measure.
So a 6,000 threepiece would cost about 9,000 . A purely bespoke I'm scared to even ask
However I did spend over 18k ( taxes more like 20k).....I'm sure I could have gotten one Tom
Ford Bespoke for that . If I could do it all over again that is probably what I would do.
I was in Gucci today and they told me a bespoke would cost 3-5k ; however I bet he meant MTM and not made to measure. But the sales person insisted it was in fact bespoke.
Now as far as bespoke lasting 20 years.....so does good OTR ....I know because in 92 I bought like 5 Armani suits . The problem is that the shoulder pads are so incredibly high I look like a football player . Its just out of style. So I simply gave them to
My gardener . No joke !
Having said all of this I don't really need all that much alteration.....it's just that the guy from the Kardashians Scott discik has the most incredible fitting suits that I have ever seen in my life . It's like a second skin and I would love to have something that fits as well as his.
So in that endeavor I did something just for fun today.....don't kill me.....I went to mysuit.....I paid 700 bucks and basically I did Ford accents . I got a 4 1/2 Inch lapel ( the widest they offer ) a ticket pocket and flaps just like ford, a vent In the back , no pleats two buttons and a vest. The design was a navy blue pinstripe zoom suit Scott discik style .....paisleys on the back of the vest.
I was amazed that they had a size 43....which is what I probably truly am but it's not sold OTR.
The cost is about $700 bucks and I just did this for the fun of it. I don't really care how it turns out.....I'm just enjoying learning about all these little intorcacies.
It will be ready in two weeks and I can't wait.
Oh and now that I've learned what canvas was I was able to ask about it. They do a half canvas.
Here is the specifics from my order:
C; FABRIC : CN51039, NAVY BOLD STRIPE, 100% WOOL, $495; BUTTON : 2-Button; LAPEL TYPE : Peak, Standard (3 1/2