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I bought 3 Tom Fords and I feel terrible about it. - Page 13

post #181 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

RLPL.

Thanks! Time to steer the thread back to TF.

The silouhette from TF suits comes from the thick canvassing and not the the shoulders, correct? I think you noted that TF shoulder pads are quite moderate.

So my questions would be: if a bespoke tailor was to attempt to recreate the TF silhouette, is the key component a strong chest piece?
post #182 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Thanks! Time to steer the thread back to TF.

The silouhette from TF suits comes from the thick canvassing and not the the shoulders, correct? I think you noted that TF shoulder pads are quite moderate.

So my questions would be: if a bespoke tailor was to attempt to recreate the TF silhouette, is the key component a strong chest piece?

I edited my response to include a shot of the TF pad compared to RLPL, which is WAY bigger.

The chest piece is one of the key elements, yes, but very precise cutting, sewing and pressing. And a very good pattern. Whoever is making the patterns at the factory in Padova is extremely good. Also, the chest this season is softer than it has been in the past.
post #183 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhood View Post


It was more than obvious that "over half" was an exaggeration but the fact remains that in my years as a tailor I have seen many more people walk away with less than they expected than is generally admitted to here.

If something OTR gets you 99% of the way there, then the chance of your tailor doing better is slim, with the notable exception of maybe 4 or 5 houses on the Row, and scattered through mainland Europe. Advising a person new to tailoring to undertake the kind of research and thought-processes necessary for bespoke when that person has the means to buy something almost perfect OTR is not just wrong, its down right evil. It is very likely to result in him getting a poor bespoke service, and feel negatively about an industry that desperately needs some resurgence.

This near-mythologising of bespoke is damaging to both tailor and customer. The customer ends up paying through the nose with unrealistic expectations and the tailor is left trying to turn a short fat man into Fred Astaire.

^ unbelragazzo Beat me to it with much more flair and talent for writing.

 

 

I don't disagree with your last paragraph at all. However I vehemently disagree with the postulation that OTR gets anyone 99% there. With the plethora of human dimensions, it's just not going to happen. You have a better chance of winning the lottery.

 

FWIW, I would only consider a handful of bespoke houses either. Not all that many get it right.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post


I wonder how many of the posters whose immediate response is always "you should have gone bespoke" have actually ever, themselves, "gone bespoke".

 

I have, and my immediate response is not "you should have gone bespoke". Unless the question is "should i buy a 6 grand OTR garment", then yes, the answer is "you should have gone bespoke."

post #184 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by suited View Post


Yeah, that suit looks like shit.

I have no issue with the decision of the OP. I mean, other than the fact that he could have picked the suits up at a steep discount from the TF outlet. I may be going against the grain here, but it always puzzles me when I see people going bespoke when they have a body type that would easily allow them to buy OTR and have a skilled tailor do the rest. With OTR, there's much less risk involved. You know exactly what you're getting. This does not apply to men that have established relationships with bespoke tailors and have gone through a vetting process by having several suits cut by the same shop. Other than simply enjoying the idea and process of having a garment custom made for you (which, admittedly, is nice), I seriously question the ROI of the entire process in terms of fit and function vs. OTR. Look at the bespoke pics that are posted here, do you really need anymore evidence? I completely understand why guys with unusual body types go custom, simply because their proportions don't allow for a great fit OTR, but I bet more than half of bespoke customers end up paying for the concept more than the results.

 

I agree with this completely. I have never bought bespoke, and am lucky enough to fit pretty easily in a lot of OTR suits. But I would have considered checking out custom work, until I saw the parade of hot messes that gets posted here on at least a weekly basis. Whatever else you can say about OTR, you can be sure you're not going to be leaving a store with a monstrosity like those we see in thread after thread. If you try on something that looks like that, you put it down and move on. Someday I would still like to go through the bespoke process at a very high end place. But I seriously question the wisdom of the reflexive response of MTM for every "what should I get for $500" question. Based on the evidence on this site, I think a lot of people would do better finding something nice, discounted, and OTR. That is, of course, unless one is particularly hard to fit.

post #185 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by gegarrenton View Post



I have, and my immediate response is not "you should have gone bespoke". Unless the question is "should i buy a 6 grand OTR garment", then yes, the answer is "you should have gone bespoke."

This was a 4 grand OTR garment. What more would I have gained from going bespoke?

post #186 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post


This was a 4 grand OTR garment. What more would I have gained from going bespoke?

 

I don't really need to see anymore pics of anyone in awkward poses. If you are happy with your outfit, then I am glad and hope it brings you happiness, sincerely.

post #187 of 221
lol
post #188 of 221
Wow...
post #189 of 221
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I can't speak for any tailors in the US as I'm English and have recently moved away from bespoke work.

My advice to you is this: look at suits that you like. On TV, in magazines, in shops. Take pictures, take notes, what ever you need to but pay attention to the details rather than the finished article. Do you like the shape of that pocket flap? Did light brown buttons on a dark blue cloth look classic or boring to you? Do you like your shoulders to look herculean, or do you like to down-play your breadth?

Once you've got a feel for the bits you like and the bits you don't you can start working out which tailor might cut in a way that you find attractive. Check out a few of the Savile Row chaps - they almost all have regular trips to NYC. Google for some reputable tailors in your area; you can often weed-out the bad ones by checking here to see some reviews, and doing things as simple as asking to meet the cutter, rather than the salesman. Ask if their stuff is made on-site. Hell, I'd like to see if you could get Tom Ford to do bespoke, simply as I don't know any Mortal who has managed it. Normally thats reserved for celebrities and those in seats of power.

If that fails then come back to us with a "specification" and we can point you to someone who will be able to do well.

The thing to remember is this; the garment may take 3 months just to get to the first fitting if your tailor travels to NYC from elsewhere. A finished garment may be a year away.

The thrill of bespoke is knowing that your garment will last you 20 years. That no one else has the same item, that your chunky thighs or wobbly elbows are taken care of properly. Buying is a solution, commissioning is an experience.

Thanks for the awesome advice.

I have learned so much from this thread it's incredible . I'm now obsessed with learning everything about this really cool hobby.

Now about Tom Ford .....yes he absolutely does bespoke for anyone who will pay; he also does made to measure.

So a 6,000 threepiece would cost about 9,000 . A purely bespoke I'm scared to even ask

However I did spend over 18k ( taxes more like 20k).....I'm sure I could have gotten one Tom
Ford Bespoke for that . If I could do it all over again that is probably what I would do.

I was in Gucci today and they told me a bespoke would cost 3-5k ; however I bet he meant MTM and not made to measure. But the sales person insisted it was in fact bespoke.

Now as far as bespoke lasting 20 years.....so does good OTR ....I know because in 92 I bought like 5 Armani suits . The problem is that the shoulder pads are so incredibly high I look like a football player . Its just out of style. So I simply gave them to
My gardener . No joke !

Having said all of this I don't really need all that much alteration.....it's just that the guy from the Kardashians Scott discik has the most incredible fitting suits that I have ever seen in my life . It's like a second skin and I would love to have something that fits as well as his.

So in that endeavor I did something just for fun today.....don't kill me.....I went to mysuit.....I paid 700 bucks and basically I did Ford accents . I got a 4 1/2 Inch lapel ( the widest they offer ) a ticket pocket and flaps just like ford, a vent In the back , no pleats two buttons and a vest. The design was a navy blue pinstripe zoom suit Scott discik style .....paisleys on the back of the vest.

I was amazed that they had a size 43....which is what I probably truly am but it's not sold OTR.

The cost is about $700 bucks and I just did this for the fun of it. I don't really care how it turns out.....I'm just enjoying learning about all these little intorcacies.

It will be ready in two weeks and I can't wait.

Oh and now that I've learned what canvas was I was able to ask about it. They do a half canvas.


Here is the specifics from my order:

C; FABRIC : CN51039, NAVY BOLD STRIPE, 100% WOOL, $495; BUTTON : 2-Button; LAPEL TYPE : Peak, Standard (3 1/2
post #190 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by gegarrenton View Post

 

I don't really need to see anymore pics of anyone in awkward poses. If you are happy with your outfit, then I am glad and hope it brings you happiness, sincerely.

If he posed less awkwardly would it have been easier for you to admit he's right?

post #191 of 221
I'm glad you've decided to get into tailoring as a hobby but I feel you should have fair warning: Scott Discik is like the opposite of what folks around here stand for. In this forum we tend to lean towards very classic looks (that is, nothing exaggerated that will look dated in 10 years, as you found with your Armani shoulders), no silk cloths, no bright colours.

There is nothing wrong with that style per se, but it just doesn't appeal to this group of people. Essentially anything that can be deemed as "peacocking" goes out of the window.

People will be happy to advise you on good quality brands, nice cloth, good construction techniques, but don't expect much love for super-fashionable looks.
post #192 of 221
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I'm glad you've decided to get into tailoring as a hobby but I feel you should have fair warning: Scott Discik is like the opposite of what folks around here stand for. In this forum we tend to lean towards very classic looks (that is, nothing exaggerated that will look dated in 10 years, as you found with your Armani shoulders), no silk cloths, no bright colours.

There is nothing wrong with that style per se, but it just doesn't appeal to this group of people. Essentially anything that can be deemed as "peacocking" goes out of the window.

People will be happy to advise you on good quality brands, nice cloth, good construction techniques, but don't expect much love for super-fashionable looks.

In the same way....but since this was for fun I decided to just get a fun suit to wear in the summer with no tie to a club or something ?

No way could I wear a suit like that in my line of work....

The reason I brought Scott discik up is not for the style on the cloth of his suits but rather how astonishingly well they fit him .

Scott's basically a jerk and he doesn't have a very muscular body....but this suits as far as the fit are superb. Say what you want about the style .....but the fit is just incredible in my humble opinion.
post #193 of 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by manchambo View Post

If he posed less awkwardly would it have been easier for you to admit he's right?

 



Seeing as I don't think he's right, no.

 

I am serious in that I hope he gets enjoyment out of his stuff, that is the whole point. I don't see any upside to denigrating his clothes and physique on a forum, contrary to popular belief, I don't think being a jerk enhances anyone's argument. The awkward pose comment applies to the whole forum, I am not picking on anyone in particular.

post #194 of 221
From your pic that looks like a 3piece base a suit. I have a 2piece base a in black and dark blue. They adjusted it for me and it fits well. Cost me 2k gbp each
post #195 of 221
Tom Ford bespoke? Does Tom Ford do it himself? He's not even a tailor.
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