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How do you roll? Untangle the Great Buttondown Collar Conspiracy! - Page 13

Poll Results: Which collar roll is closest to the ideal?

Poll expired: Apr 17, 2013  
  • 43% (70)
    #1
  • 6% (10)
    #2
  • 5% (8)
    #3
  • 30% (49)
    #4
  • 14% (23)
    #5
160 Total Votes  
post #181 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post


Anecdote: I recall staying for a while many years ago on W20-something St, NY with a friend, and having breakfast in a nearby diner. The table next to me was taken by a heavy-set guy in his mid-forties, wearing a white OCBD with his initials monogrammed on cuffs and chest pocket, repp tie and braces (aka suspenders). I remember thinking at the time that in London he would have been "that complete dick, the Yank in the stupid shirt", but in Manhattan, he appeared to be an examplar of a certain American style. We should preserve that.

Four monograms, including two on the same shirt?

No, he's a dick here as well.
post #182 of 197
Either 1 or 4 for me. I like the shape of both but prefer the spacing on #1, which has a more balanced look. In truth, anything approximating those two collars or something in the middle would please me.

On a related, but tangential, note:

I have a few Black Fleece OCBDs (from 2008-09), which I think roll pretty well, much better than regular BB shirts, but not as well as some vintage off-brand OCBDs I had in college. Those were hand-me-downs from my dad, and they had a thin oxford cloth that would make Vox weep with nostalgia, although I don't know if the cloth was thin from the start or only from years of wearing and washing. They were probably as old as I was, but they are disintegrated now. Now I'm thinking of finally trying "custom" made-to-order Mercer.

Foo, don't leave us hanging on the results. Can you now reveal your preference and, perhaps, your experience with Mercer?
post #183 of 197
Greek, you reminded me of an OCBD I didn't remember that I had.

Here's a lousy photos of a pretty nice roll - Black Fleece

tumblr_mlpcr3RZFK1rv8yzgo2_1280.jpg
post #184 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saigonesque View Post

Has anyone seen/ tried on the Brooks Brothers Gatsby OCBD yet? Rumor has it that it's got an unlined(!) collar very similar to their golden era shirts. If this is indeed the case, might be our best bet for a great collar roll at a reasonable price. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif



Quote:
Originally Posted by CaymanS View Post

BB used Supima instead of Supima oxford, so it's not gonna look right. Nonetheless, if it were offered in Extra-Slim, I'd order one just for the hell of it, but it looks like they're only offering "Slim" sizing for now.

no it's full-on supima oxford. compared it side-by-side to my regular, mainline OCBD. same fabric. it'd be nice if it were extra slim fit. but slim fit works pretty well on me under a jacket, so i'm ok with it.
post #185 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

It's all about the attitude? Come on, guys. That is such a lame cop-out. It wouldn't be a good explanation in virtually any other context, and it isn't here.

After all, you don't need a vintage Brooks Brothers OCBD through which to express attitude. Any floppy, unlined collar will do. However, a pleasing roll is not a given. I have a one of the much vaunted Mercer OCBDs with an unlined, soft collar. Guess what? The roll sucks. I won't say how, as that would reveal my preferences. But it is terrible, and it has nothing to with attitude.

I honestly give very little of a fuck, I'll know it when I see one I dislike but that's about it. Just trying to be sincere but that collar roll thing never really concerned me much. If I had to choose amongst your choice offered I'd pick n.4, which is close to the tie itself but still has a lot of "wave".
post #186 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Greek, you reminded me of an OCBD I didn't remember that I had.

Here's a lousy photos of a pretty nice roll - Black Fleece
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
tumblr_mlpcr3RZFK1rv8yzgo2_1280.jpg

Looks good. That's similar to how mine roll. Hard to find anything better these days, it seems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
no it's full-on supima oxford. compared it side-by-side to my regular, mainline OCBD. same fabric. it'd be nice if it were extra slim fit. but slim fit works pretty well on me under a jacket, so i'm ok with it.

Need to see it with a tie.


I found a photo of David Mercer wearing (I assume) one of his own shirts. Not the clearest angle for picture, but I think you can see an outline suggesting a nice bell curve. That's definitely an unlined collar.

post #187 of 197
BB's Gatsby OCBD with tie.

post #188 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I know which I think is the best one, but I'm not saying anything until the results are in!

mafoofan: Perhaps you're already planning a follow-up blog post, but I'm curious to hear your opinion on the best roll.
post #189 of 197

I just received my first CottonWork OCBD. This is a fairly accurate representation of the ideal roll in my mind. For my next order I must remember to specify it unfused, but the very soft interlining works well.

 

 

With a tie:

 


Edited by Quantimil - 5/17/13 at 3:58am
post #190 of 197
Thats interesting... I have one cottonwork shirt, and the collar is awful on it--its why I never ordered another shirt from them. That looks pretty good though.
post #191 of 197
post #192 of 197
I just wrote it in another thread, all the collars i have seen in this thread lack tie space and thus will never achieve this look:

http://media.tumblr.com/27efb6430cb1155ad785cd5f70353dc7/tumblr_inline_mkp0g7IeWv1qz4rgp.jpg


You can modify everything: length of collar wings, position of buttons, spread of the collar, it will all lead to failure if you start with not enough tie space.

I say you need AT LEAST 3.5cm distance between the two points, where the collar wings meet the collar band. Maybe even more, up to 5cm, I don´t know.

Most collars I see in this thread, specially on this page have ZERO tie space, which is automatic failure on a button down.
post #193 of 197
Was randomly watching an episode of Law and Order: SVU the other night. Sometimes you find inspiration in the weirdest places. But I think these are pretty good:



post #194 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Was randomly watching an episode of Law and Order: SVU the other night. Sometimes you find inspiration in the weirdest places. But I think these are pretty good:




I could never see that guy on L&O (supposedly tough, no-nonsense police commander) and not think of his LA Law character (nerdy, needy, socially ackward directmail tycoon suitor to Arnie Becker's secretary, Roz) - it ruined the show for me
post #195 of 197
Unbuttoned OCBD collar with a tie is classic dishabille. Not for daytime unless you are still in afternoon cooldown.
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