Originally Posted by Man Of Lint
Sammy my ass. It is Samuelsohn snd anyone that can't manage to say or spell it properly, doesn't deserve to wear it..
Good thing you're not my fitter or rep. Frankly, I don't give a rip what you think - I've heard many people call it that.
Originally Posted by roveet
I'm glad someone posted this thread because I was wondering the same thing, namely what Samuelsohn cut should I choose. I've gone into a number of stores in the past and I haven't really had much success in getting an idea of what they have to offer.
I am tall and have a rather thin and narrow body-type, with a 38 chest.
I am very partial to the Anderson & Sheppard look but I'm not wholly opposed to something with a more structured shoulder.
A while back I had a suit made in the Gable model and I think I would prefer a bit more waist suppression - incidentally does anyone know how far one can actually go with this? I haven't actually tried to get it altered and at the time it was made, I just followed the advice of the person who was fitting me.
Mike was saying how they can suppress the waist a lot for MTM(though, I would wait til the Sam rep comes during the trunk show) when getting measured. Having no experience with MTM, I cannot verify this. I needed a lot of suppression too. It fit like a Madison OTR. Biggest thing is the coats felt lighter than all the ones I own.
C&P from AAAC for general knowledge:
My new favorite from them, very soft shoulders, light weight. Lapels are 3 1/4 inch.
I have it in a fully lined and 1/2 lined, I jokingly call it "Kitonesque" because of the very soft shoulders. I was shooting in a park today and a student asked me what I was wearing, the first thing he commented on was the shoulders, then the quality of the linen. The finishing of the inside seam is very well done with some little features that are a little different.
This jacket is undarted but is far from being a sack suit and has good waist suppression.
Perhaps Chris and Alex can comment here, but I am led to believe it is difficult to get nice suppression without the help of a quick fix dart or two.
I have this in a fully lined linen/wool mix,
again with the soft shoulder and light weight.
In the same sort of direction as the Talbot.
A Zealander wool sports jacket, patch pockets double vent, very slight padding, nice little details like the buttons on the patch pockets on one version.
I have two Grahams and only one has this. This is my favorite fall or winter jacket (along with a cashmere Borrelli).
The classic conservative cut.
Slightly full, 2 button, center vent double pleated, padded.
Mine is in 130s summer weight and is a great warm weather suit.
This is a suede sports jacket, padded, patch pockets and center vent.
Great fall weekend jacket. Undarted, but that may be a result of the suede fabric, I am not sure. Moderate waist suppression.
Soft, good waist suppression,
It is at the tailor as the dry cleaner ruined the cuff on the left arm,
so I don't know how else to describe it with out looking at again.
I really like this cut. I posted about wanting to buy a suit a ditch the pants a few months ago (and everyone advised against it) it was this cut, very nice. I don't recall if it is darted or not. They way we speak so often about our clothes, you would think I could remember that.
I have a suit, 3 BT CV and a jacket, 2 BT CV, in this cut.
Older style in the firm, square shoulders sense.
The jacket is in a Deep Henna, great fabric, slight boxy cut compared to the newer suit bodies, I don't want to say a sack suit,it is darted, but more in that direction that the Albert or the Talbot.
I think this is fairly new, this is a sports jacket with 3/4 lining, nice details in the way the lining is done at the end. Shoulders are softer than the James but more built up that the Talbot. When I fell the shoulders they don't have a thick pad, but they sit on your shoulders with a more padded fell than the Talbot (if that makes any sense). I posted a few pictures when I first got this jacket last fall.
Padded shoulders, squarish compared to the Talbot.
Soft shoulders, roped shoulder, slightly wider lapels, about 3 1/2 inches, 2 button, double vented.
The Alton feels a touch softer overall than the Trophy, but that may be the fabric as the trophy I tried on was a beautful Zealander wool flannel, the Alton was a very light 130s.
Softer shoulders than the Alston, equally roped, mid to wide lapels, 3 1/2 inches, 2 button, dual vents.
A car coat, 3/4 lined, in soft smooth wool, 6 button double breasted with nice details like a leather patch at the back of the neck on the insode and nice detail under the collar, if you flip it up on a cold or windy day, it will stand out from the jacket. Sleeves have buttoned tightening straps.
I know there are some fans of this cut here on AAAC, but I have not seen this suit body first hand and know nothing about it.
I've heard a few times of this "Anderson & Sheppard" look. can you educate me on this?