Kai, you said that WW Chan's quality is good but perhaps not on par with Kiton and Oxxford. Â What firm's quality would you say is closest to that which WW Chan produces (Hickey-Freeman, Samuelsohn, Marting Greenfield, Gianluca Isaia, Zegna, etc)? Â Are there any areas of the suit you found to be a disappointment (ie. quality control, fit, stitching, roll of lape, whatever)? Â If so, what did you do about that? Â I had some shirts made by A-Man Hing Cheong while I was in Hong Kong but did not visit WW Chan. Â A-Man, made some fantastics shirts that were as good as my Turnbull & Asser shirts and nearly as good as what I have from Ascot Chang. Â Is WW Chan on par with A-Man?
Regarding quality: Â I think that the WW Chan Jacket is of much higher quality than Hickey Freeman. Â I own a Hickey suit and the Chan jacket is much better constructed. Â I'm afraid I don't own the other brands you mentioned, so I can't really comment on those. Â I also have no experience whatsoever with A-Man Hing Cheong tailors either, so I can't really comment on them. Â To put it in terms of my own suits that I have in my closet, I would say that the Chan suits are at least as well constructed as my Canali suits, but fit better. Â This is in spite of the fact that I fit very well into an off the rack Canali. Â When I say that the Chan suit is not quite up to the standards of Kiton, I think that what I'm really saying is that Kiton has more hand work than the Chan suit. Â This is most evident on the pants. Â There is a fair amount of hand work on the Kiton pants, while the Chan pants have very little. Â However, I can't really tell much difference between the pants in appearance, and certainly the Chan suits seem to be wearing very well. Â I can say that I look better in my Chan suits than I do in my Kiton suit, in spite of the fact that the Kiton fit me reasonably well off the rack, and I've had it tailored as well. Â In terms of disappointments, I can't really say that I have any problems with the Chan suits. Â You mentioned the roll of the lapel. Â This is one thing that Chan has nailed down completely. Â They brag about all the hand work that goes into the lapels and front of the jacket, and for good reason. Â The lapels on my Chan suits are perfect. Â Overall, the quality of the Chan suit is impeccable. Â I have no complaints. Â My only caveat is that I went through several fittings in the creation of my original pattern. Â I don't know how their "US tour" ordering/fitting procedure will compare. Â I worry a bit that no matter how skilled they are, that something of the immaculate fit will be compromised if they don't have the opportunity to make adjustments on the fly through the fitting process. Â I've had to do some minor adjustments on one of the no-fitting "internet" suits I ordered from them that they made from my pattern. Â I can't say that I am really disappointed in this, as it is unreasonable to expect them to get things perfect without the body there to try it on. Â My guess is that you may end up with some minor adjustments on a suit which you don't go through the requisite multiple fittings. Â One BIG issue I had with one of my internet purchases from Chan was the shipping. Â My dupioni silk suit was packed in a TINY fed-ex box (this was one of those boxes about the size of a legal pad, and 2 1/2 inches thick.) Â It was so compacted and wrinkled when it arrived that it took several weeks of steaming and hanging to get it out of its crumpled state. Â I was pretty unhappy about this, and I complained to them. Â They took heed and shipped my next suit in a much larger box. Â Make sure you insist on an adequate shipping box, even if it means that you pay a bit more for shipping. Â Â I guess that the bottom line is that I currently don't really even consider buying another off the rack suit. Â I have been spoiled by the fit and the complete control I have over a bespoke suit. Â They simply look better on my frame than even the most expensive ready to wear suits. Â For me, it's either Chan or Raphael from here on out. Â Raphael is a bit nicer, but Chan comes pretty close for about 1/3 the price. Â Certainly if I was going to Hong Kong again, or if I happened to live in one of the cities on Chan's tour, I would consider several more Chan suits. Â I may well purchase another one via e-mail next year anyway. Â Â Regarding the shoulder padding: Â The shoulders on my suit aren't super heavy on the padding. Â I've got pretty good shoulders, so a bunch of padding wasn't really required to give the suit a good silhouette. Â I'm sure that they could pretty much create any level of padding you want, provided that you communicate this very clearly in the initial fitting. Â (Again, another benefit of multiple fittings is that you can make adjusments to such things after you actually see the suit on your own body.) Â The padding in the shoulders was something that (in my suits) they got right the first time without the need for adjustment. Regarding vents: Yes, my suits are all double vented. Â I prefer either double vents or no vents. Â I find double vents to be more comfortable, and provided they are done right, look just as good.