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[Shirts] [Michael Alden article] The first serious step in bespoke

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

I like this:

http://dresswithstyle.com/2011/09/28/the-first-serious-step-in-bespoke/

So, the first step in bespoke is to get a serious shirt, one that fits, made by the best craftsmen you can’t afford before you step foot inside a tailor’s shop. When you have acquired short term funding from the IMF and had a proper shirt made, have it duplicated in Bangladesh and never (ever) vary from its measures. Then and only then can you venture to the tailors and ask him to make a coat whose sleeves will be calibrated to the shirt’s measures (now a mathematical constant) so the right amount of shirt cuff is revealed.

 

So basically he suggest two tailors: one who makes the master shirt (preferably in Europe - that's close to me - UK, Italy, France - what is your best recommendation?) and the second one who replicates it (maybe I can send him the master shirt to some place like Hong Kong by post - and he is able to replicate from that?).

 

What is your take on all of this?

post #2 of 11

He's being a little bit facetious there. His main point is that you need shirts that fit properly before getting bespoke suits or jackets made (due to the fact that they are calibrated to show some cuff, and that OTR/MTM cuff lengths tend to vary widely, even within one person's wardrobe).

 

Someone who can't afford bespoke shirts should not be buying bespoke jackets, hence, his sarcastic lines about "securing funding from the IMF" and "copying in Bangladesh."

post #3 of 11
O well, M&S shirt cost as much as a MTO shirts n Hong Kong. I will take the supremacy of European shirt makers with a pitch of salt.
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Texas View Post

He's being a little bit facetious there. His main point is that you need shirts that fit properly before getting bespoke suits or jackets made (due to the fact that they are calibrated to show some cuff, and that OTR/MTM cuff lengths tend to vary widely, even within one person's wardrobe).

 

Someone who can't afford bespoke shirts should not be buying bespoke jackets, hence, his sarcastic lines about "securing funding from the IMF" and "copying in Bangladesh."

 

Sure, I completely understood Michael's post, the joke too. So now on to address me question?

 

To go to a good tailor at first then replicate it cheaper later sounds a sensible idea to me. I greatly appreciate any help.

post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

O well, M&S shirt cost as much as a MTO shirts n Hong Kong. I will take the supremacy of European shirt makers with a pitch of salt.

After reading all about your adventures and contradictions with HK tailors, I'd just stay in Europe, as for a starter at least.

post #6 of 11

If you adjust your cuff diameter, all of your shirts will show the same amount of cuff regardless of sleeve length lookaround.gif

post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by name View Post

To go to a good tailor at first then replicate it cheaper later sounds a sensible idea to me. I greatly appreciate any help.

Replication is not as foolproof as you might be imagining. Also, with any bespoke, ongoing client service over multiple orders is as important as any one specific garment coming out right. The process of bespoke is fraught with human error. You want a tailor who will be a competent ally, not just a guy who sells you stuff.
post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

If you adjust your cuff diameter, all of your shirts will show the same amount of cuff regardless of sleeve length lookaround.gif

That is very clever Mr Diaz, why did I not think of that in all these years. You guys that post all the time must have many tricks you could share. Maybe you could suggest to your friends sharing one with some posts in wayrn. That would be very good or us lurkers to learn with. I hope you like this idea.

post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnboy View Post

That is very clever Mr Diaz, why did I not think of that in all these years. You guys that post all the time must have many tricks you could share. Maybe you could suggest to your friends sharing one with some posts in wayrn. That would be very good or us lurkers to learn with. I hope you like this idea.

Be as sarcastic as you like, but sometimes things like this don't seem to be as obvious as they should. Plus, I couldn't care less about showing 5mm less cuff with some shirts than with others. Are we mannequins or something?

post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by name View Post

After reading all about your adventures and contradictions with HK tailors, I'd just stay in Europe, as for a starter at least.

THe main problem, perhaps is the language difference. I don't believe most Well known European tailors even speaks adequate English. Obviously, if you speak their native language is fine.
post #11 of 11

We always reiterate to our clients the importance of having a perfectly fitted shirt to go with an equally tailored jacket. This of course will start from getting the individual's precise measurements, right fabric, etc. Hong Kong tailors or not, the goal for us tailors is to give the clients the kind of service they expect backed up by a product suited specifically for them - without necessarily breaking the bank.

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