The inside pockets on the left of the coat still intrigue me and we cannot see the cuff buttons on this occasion.
I think I'm going to try a Beckett and Robb Suit - Page 8
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Unlined flannel was my choice. Not sure why that would be a bad thing. Figured it would make the suit a bit lighter and more comfortable.
The jacket may be a tad long, but I have a long torso, especially in comparison with my arms. If I use my thumb as the reference point for jacket length, the jacket ends up too short. (I've tried this on a couple of sport coats I had altered, and they ended up looking ridiculous.) Also, my butt is rather big, and when I have a jacket that is cut short, my butt tends to protrude out of the jacket more than I like. So, it's something of a compromise.
I like the balance on this jacket, but I may get my next Beckett & Robb jacket from a tiny bit shorter, and we'll see how it looks.
For what it's worth...
overall looks very good. I won't point out all the good things becuase i assume you know them. ah wth, PS is great, pattern and coloring are good, wider lapels (stick to at least this wide) are definitely good,
just some random observations:
- something with the pants from below the knee looks off... don't know if it's how it was pressed, or constructed, but there's something about the shape that seems to make it twist. Just look at all the pant pictures, whether static or moving, it looks to me like there's something wrong with the 'shape'. Do you have an unusual stance or gait? Are they cut for the way you move? Also, I have a hunch they're tight at the knees and will wear through there quickly. Lots of creasing around the knees?
- I also noticed that it's flannel but then unlined... in theory an unexpected choice, I guess if in practice it works for you
- Jacket seems quite long? I have a shorter torso so usually go with max to end of my thumb and this looks like a full 2 inches below your thumb, but also if the jacket were closed, would it cover your whole front rise?
Here's some bespoke jackets I have for comparison:
Two WW Chan suits: These are definitely shorter.
A suit by Raphael: Maybe just a little shorter, but not much. (Hard to tell because of the pose.)
An interview with Jason Yeats of Beckett & Robb
Beckett & Robb suit. Completely unstructured. (no lining, no padding. Just fabric.) In brown dupioni silk.
Beckett & Robb shirt too.
I've never owned a completely unstructured suit jacket before. It's really light weight. Feels like I'm wearing a shirt, not a suit jacket.
Here's a peek at a jacket and waistcoat I just picked up from B&R in San Francisco. The fabric is one of their stock fabrics, a 60/40 wool/cashmere blend - I've had my eye on it for ages, since Dustin had a jacket made in it. It's unstructured, like the linen suit I got from B&R, has the blue pindot lining on the vest and as the piping in the jacket, corozo buttons, and a bright red lining in the sleeves.
I'll get some proper photos of it tonight or tomorrow. It feels great, and I'm hoping the weather gets colder again soon!
Kudos to you for posting so many pictures as you go through this process. Tough crowd here, and in some cases, the advice given is a bit suspect. Overall though, with each iteration, your suits are getting better and better. I learned the hard way myself, but now that I'm an old timer, I advise those trying a new tailor to perfect suit number 1 before ordering any more. Otherwise, there are too many moving targets and you end up with a handful of narrow misses.
I'd echo a few of the sentiments above:
- You are hard to fit, the collar gap issue is a tricky one.
- Coat is a little long.
- Lapels are too narrow.
- Button stance is a little low.
- Too much vest poking out from under the coat.
I recognize that you've been addressing these in other posts. B&R seems like a good outfit and genuinely concerned with customer satisfaction. But that suit that Raphael made you -- that suit is stunning. Granted, photos only go so far, but from what I can tell, IMO, it is head and shoulders better than what B&R and Chan has made for you. Not simply from the perspective of fit, but also in all the tiny micro-decisions that amount to styling. It is really great.
Of course, given their respective price points, it is unfair to compare B&R and Raphael directly. That leads to a broader discussion. Is Raphael still an option for you, geographically? Personally, I'd rather have that one Raphael than two or three suits from a maker who can't quite nail my pattern. That makes the price issue almost moot. Just some food for thought. Anyway, thank you for sharing your experience. Enjoy all of these in good health!
I'm not saying any of this is even related to Kai or the guys above, just a general point about MTM versus OTR. I've spent a lot of time hunting around for good OTR and I still think that I've now found better than what a MTM would look like for me. Or at least, I own so few suits that I really can't afford ($ or time) to wait for iteration 3-4 to really 'nail' that fit and styling, or give up on the house after suit 2 and start all over again at another MTM place.
Just my $0.02
The biggest problem with B&R and other MTM joints is that most often they have salesman without much tailoring expertise judging and making alteration notes. Not that much of a problem for the thin and flat chested. But for guys like me the result is simply underwhelming.