Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread



nutcracker said:

yeah, Tokyu Hands started as a DIY hardware store, now they sell practically everything. The craziest thing I've seen there was an escape pod in case of tsunami disaster.

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do they do a live demo too , I am actually curious to see it...



nutcracker said:

Seems like the Summer trunk show season is coming along.....

Yuki Shirahama Bottier is having his Tokyo Bespoke Show on 6/29~6/30 @ L'Antico Guardaroba in Harajuku
Priced from ¥294,000 ($3000 USD or so)

I took these pics the last time I was there. Mr. Bottier will bring along many more samples.

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Very aggressive waist treatment on the black slip on , is this a recent in a fashion thing lately, or they're just more following the English since Day 1

Actually, most English shoe makers (to my understanding) don't really make shoes with an aggressive waist save for Girling. Always thought it was the Italians, and maybe the Japanese who pushed the conventions. Correct me if I'm wrong.



bboysdontcryy said:

Actually, most English shoe makers (to my understanding) don't really have make shoes with an aggressive waist save for Girling. Always thought it was the Italians, and maybe the Japanese who pushed the conventions. Correct me if I'm wrong.

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I have no idea, probably my view was influenced by seeing all the G&G...



clee1982 said:

Very aggressive waist treatment on the black slip on , is this a recent in a fashion thing lately, or they're just more following the English since Day 1

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Mr. Bottier offers 2 very different styles: the full bodied look of French trad (from Altan Bottier, where he apprenticed), and the aggressive Italian style influenced from Spigola. I say the slip ons fits the latter style. He spent some time living in France, so I won't be surprised if he's been influenced by some of the big names such as Corthay, or even G&G.



nutcracker said:

Mr. Bottier offers 2 very different styles: the full bodied look of French trad (from Altan Bottier, where he apprenticed), and the aggressive Italian style influenced from Spigola. I say the slip ons fits the latter style. He spent some time living in France, so I won't be surprised if he's been influenced by some of the big names such as Corthay, or even G&G.

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Oh yes! Missed out the French who tend to make aggressive stuff too! Bottier, Corthay, Berluti ... Never seen a Berluti bespoke though. Are those available in Japan too? I'm in SEA now and there's a Berluti boutique over here. Very pricey.



bboysdontcryy said:

Actually, most English shoe makers (to my understanding) don't really make shoes with an aggressive waist save for Girling. Always thought it was the Italians, and maybe the Japanese who pushed the conventions. Correct me if I'm wrong.

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Honestly, I'm not sure how many of the European shoemakers actually take notice of Japanese made shoes.....other than the fact that the Japanese seem eager to apprentice under them.

bboysdontcryy said:

Oh yes! Missed out the French who tend to make aggressive stuff too! Bottier, Corthay, Berluti ... Never seen a Berluti bespoke though. Are those available in Japan too? I'm in SEA now and there's a Berluti boutique over here. Very pricey.

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I just dropped by Corthay's Bespoke show (manned by their bespoke craftsman Yasu Shioda), and their sample looked very aggressive (much more than the RTW). Shioda-san is doing a shoemaking demo @ Isetan until the 18th if any one is interested. I also handled their new camel skin Arcas. Looked and felt like pigskin to me

I know Berluti does Bespoke shows twice a year in Japan, but not sure how it's gonna work since LVMH bought them off.

Corthay and Berluti Bespokes both starts from ¥600K yen ($6000 USD+ ). Yes, very pricey

Beveled waist is not a recent invention or style, but G&G definitely made the most sharply angled fiddleback beveled waist.

That waist treatment is just a typical beveled waist, with a pretty high heel.



chogall said:

Beveled waist is not a recent invention or style, but G&G definitely made the most sharply angled fiddleback beveled waist.

That waist treatment is just a typical beveled waist, with a pretty high heel.

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Yes, typcial beveled waist, but nonetheless pretty

ridiculously pretty. but imo square waste will provide a bit more utility/strength given that they are side elastic shoes. but its just me.



nutcracker said:

Yes, typcial beveled waist, but nonetheless pretty

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Unbelievable. I wonder if waists like that affect the stability of the shoe in any way at all. Probably not given that out foot rests mainly on the heels and the front.

More warped around insole and waist to waist heel stiffener. Otherwise, nothing extra.

I know Masaru Okuyama and Osamu Egawa (o.e.) make insoles that wraps around the arch to give extra strength and support. This in conjunction with an extended heel stiffener should be quite adequate, I think.


Masaru Okuyama's Insoles



clee1982 said:

do they do a live demo too , I am actually curious to see it...

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The tsunami escape pod is called 'LIFE ARMOUR'. It's pretty much indestructable and floats on water. For up to 4 adults. Costs ¥538K or so ($5400 USD). Straight out of Dragon Ball Z


From Tokyo Hands Shinjuku

Yuki Shirahama Bottier
Master at work.

Chiaro