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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 62

post #916 of 2868
Thread Starter 
A Visit to alte Art, Tokyo

alte Art by o.e. is the boutique/atelier of shoemaker Egawa Osamu. A very charming showroom with a vintage feel, the atelier is tucked behind, where Egawa-san and his partner Tsurusaki-san work in tandem. True to his atelier's name 'alte art', German for 'ancient art', Egawa is inspired by the fine craftsmanship of the old era, such as during the Victorian and the Edwardian age. Not only are his shoes completely handmade, his research into the old methods has lead him to adapt natural materials (flour paste glues, dyes, thick leather shanks, antique hardwares etc...) as well as some construction details that are rarely seen these days.

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A charming store with a vintage feel

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Two of the many shoe display cabinets

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Two of Egawa-san's musical instrument shoes: testaments to his creativity and skills. A number of them are now part of the city's musuem colleciton.

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o.e.'s Lady's shoes are also quite gorgeous. Also with a bevelled waist!


o.e. only offers full handmade MTO shoes: a method they believe will provide the best fitting shoes for the price. Egawa-san painstakingly prepared a vast collection of fitting shoes with 6 widths for each size. I struck a near perfect fit after trying several fitting shoes (his last has an excellent fit to begin with), and the fit could be further improved by last customisation/personalisation. Unlike a Bespoke, I can be assured a very decent fit from the beginning, which I think is a big plus. With the proper initial fitting and measurement, o.e. assures a great fit even without a trial fitting session. By omitting the trial session, time and cost can be shaved off, ultimately providing phenomenal shoes at a more affordable price.

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Fitting shoes Cabinet

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Already a snug fit! My toes could wiggle too.

Price for o.e. shoes (full hand made shoes) starts from ¥100,000 ($1000 or so) for Standard Line. Price starts from ¥180,000 ($1800) for the Vintage Line, which is finished to a higher degree (with bevelled waist), and uses wooden pace, thick leather shanks, and other natural materials such as flour based glue. They are Egawa san's homage to the Antique era.

My thanks to Egawa-san and Tsurusaki-san from o.e.

handsewn welted bootmaker o.e. website
Edited by nutcracker - 6/3/13 at 3:51pm
post #917 of 2868
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

A Visit to alte Art,
o.e. Egawa-san painstakingly prepared a vast collection of fitting shoes with 6 widths and 3 instep heights for each size

I wish all RTW shoe have that options to start with
post #918 of 2868
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

I wish all RTW shoe have that options to start with

my bad, its 6 widths, and 3 toe shapes to choose from (not instep height). Instep height/fitting is adjusted directly on the last.
post #919 of 2868
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

geez....here's another one for you
Found this on our buddy Bespoke_Maker's blog

TYE Shoemaker 'Correspondent' Shoes for ICHO

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Quite a painstaiking job to fill each hole with tiny leather pieces

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I knew Mr. Ohno (formerly from GUILD) did some crazy looking women's shoes....but his men's shoes look quite nice too

The boutique is located close to where I live...maybe I'll drop by and see what's up

Wonderful take on vintage Stetson Saratogas but from memory Stetson did not do a Saratoga spectator.

AppleMark

Now here is something you don't see anymore that harks back to the 40s....the use of off white thread/stitching.
post #920 of 2868
Holy crap. o.e. might be nirvana for me. Do they have enough size 10 US wide or size 9 UK trial shoes? And how's their English/international shipping?

Been looking for a value priced hand welted shoemaker. Meermin doesn't cut it with their quality or last customization. Vass MTO is very out of the way for me. This might be the answer!

p.s., just realized I had their website saved for a few years now. tongue.gif
post #921 of 2868
Thread Starter 
Oooh...you may not be happy after you hear this..... the biggest size he currently offer is 27 (US9). I'm not sure if he is does custom work or to expand on sizes. (I've seen several makers recently expand to 28...l)
post #922 of 2868
Just revisited the website. Now I know why I shelved the idea. Apparently size 10 US is for ogres at Japan.
post #923 of 2868
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Just revisited the website. Now I know why I shelved the idea. Apparently size 10 US is for ogres at Japan.

facepalm.gif quite a shame about the size restriction.....

I recall Clematis's house last going up to very big sizes....and I've heard that Sumo wrestlers order shoes for him
post #924 of 2868
Thread Starter 
Sarto Recamier Shoe Trees

Some of you may recall that the La Cordonnerie Anglaise (LCA) shoe trees used to be sold in just about every shoe stores in Japan. Their longtime importer, R&D Corporation, is a major manufacturer of shoe polishes (M.Mowbrey brand), so they pretty much had access to all the shoe outlets in the country.

However, the contract between LCA and R&D was terminated (or not extended) late last year, presumably since LCA was purchased by Saphir (they have their own distribution line in Japan). So all of a sudden, LCA shoe trees disappeared from the store racks. That is a bummer because I'm quite a fan of LCA trees (owning 5 pairs). Good news is that LCA shoe trees are due to be back under a new importer (or perhaps by Saphir themselves), but the bad news is that the price will be up (starting price of ¥10,000, or $100 USD) .

R&D, on the other hand, figured out a way to keep their customers happy by replacing the LCA trees with their own collection of trees that are essentially LCA knockoffs. They literally took the patterns of LCA trees and have them made cheaper in China. They are called the Sarto Recamier, and are available in Birch or Cedar (not offered by the original LCA). Prices are also lower, starting from ¥5700 ($57 USD) for the birch model. Having handled them myself, they don't feel as sturdy as LCA, and the birch wood feels lighter (perhaps not Euro birch). But they are priced quite reasonably.

They are available from size 39 to 45 (US5 to US12), so maybe some of you may want to pick them up on your next visit.








Edited by nutcracker - 6/4/13 at 9:06am
post #925 of 2868
Thread Starter 
more aftermarket shoe trees from Japan...

Nakada Last Shoe Tree

Made by Nakada Last, a major last manufacturer, these trees looks and feels like a wooden last. I held them and they weighed about twice as much as the LCA type trees mentioned above. The surface was left unfinished, presumably to absorb moisture. The solid brass parts are all custom milled (not just a drawer knob). While the shape is supposed to fit a wide range of shoes, they probably go well with full bodied English shoes. Costs ¥29,400 (almost $300), making them the most expensive aftermarket trees in Japan. May have been more appealing if they could have done a better job with ventilation ala St.C style.







AppleMark
They are all available at the newly opened FANS shoe repair shop in Aoyama.

from M's Blog
post #926 of 2868
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

more aftermarket shoe trees from Japan...

Nakada Last Shoe Tree

Made by Nakada Last, a major last manufacturer, these trees looks and feels like a wooden last. I held them and they weighed about twice as much as the LCA type trees mentioned above. The surface was left unfinished, presumably to absorb moisture. The solid brass parts are all custom milled (not just a drawer knob). While the shape is supposed to fit a wide range of shoes, they probably go well with full bodied English shoes. Costs ¥29,400 (almost $300), making them the most expensive aftermarket trees in Japan. May have been more appealing if they could have done a better job with ventilation ala St.C style.







AppleMark
They are all available at the newly opened FANS shoe repair shop in Aoyama.

from M's Blog

Those trees look as stunning as OTR shoe trees can get. Good thing my fetish for accessories doesn't extend to shoe trees.

I bet there must be a huge range of fine shoe creams/waxes etc for the Japanese market. I was told that C & J makes their shoes to a high standard for the Japanese market -- not sure if that's true.
post #927 of 2868
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Those trees look as stunning as OTR shoe trees can get. Good thing my fetish for accessories doesn't extend to shoe trees.

I bet there must be a huge range of fine shoe creams/waxes etc for the Japanese market. I was told that C & J makes their shoes to a high standard for the Japanese market -- not sure if that's true.

the shoe maintenance part is true. C&J not so. They are still C&J with tidier stitchings, I don't think they waste more leather for the clicking of Jap market shoes.
post #928 of 2868
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Those trees look as stunning as OTR shoe trees can get. Good thing my fetish for accessories doesn't extend to shoe trees.

I bet there must be a huge range of fine shoe creams/waxes etc for the Japanese market. I was told that C & J makes their shoes to a high standard for the Japanese market -- not sure if that's true.

Those trees do feel quite substantial, and the solid brass parts look quite nice. But yeah, the price.....

There are quite a few shoe polish makers in Japan, but the two major brands are M.Mowbrey (made by R&D), and Boot Black (by Columbus), both have quite an extensive range.

btw, Boot Black has been a regular exhibitor at the PITTI every season. If anyone happens to be there in a few weeks, don't forget to drop by their booth to get some free goodies.

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Post Cards

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USB card with full digital catalog of their lineup

Boot Black HP: http://bootblack.jp/en/index.html
post #929 of 2868
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

more aftermarket shoe trees from Japan...

Nakada Last Shoe Tree

Made by Nakada Last, a major last manufacturer, these trees looks and feels like a wooden last. I held them and they weighed about twice as much as the LCA type trees mentioned above. The surface was left unfinished, presumably to absorb moisture. The solid brass parts are all custom milled (not just a drawer knob). While the shape is supposed to fit a wide range of shoes, they probably go well with full bodied English shoes. Costs ¥29,400 (almost $300), making them the most expensive aftermarket trees in Japan. May have been more appealing if they could have done a better job with ventilation ala St.C style.







AppleMark
They are all available at the newly opened FANS shoe repair shop in Aoyama.

from M's Blog

why spend that much on non-lasted tree is my question...
post #930 of 2868
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post


why spend that much on non-lasted tree is my question...

Exactly, why would you?

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