or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 58

post #856 of 3042
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

If available, I do get them, if they are not already included

The new JLP's RTW shoe trees look nice, but unlike StC, G&G etc...., they are not last specific. One model is supposed to fit all the lasts. (I asked the store manager)

Btw Hiro's lasted shoe trees (I believe they are hornbeam) go for ¥25K, sounds steep but actually in line for a Bespoke maker.

170 GBP is expensive for shoe trees indeed! Two pairs and you can buy a pair of C & J shoes (though not in Japan). But I've no doubt the trees are well-made etc.

Hiro's last isn't slim right (relative to say, Girling)? It's more of a comfort last.
post #857 of 3042
For reference G&G quoted 800-900 GBP for bespoke 3 piece boot trees. JLSJ has a price list for trees too. 170 GBP seems reasonable.
post #858 of 3042
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

For reference G&G quoted 800-900 GBP for bespoke 3 piece boot trees. JLSJ has a price list for trees too. 170 GBP seems reasonable.

800-900 GBP? No typo eh? Phew. That price makes 170 GBP sound cheap. rotflmao.gif

That 170 GBP was a Japanese maker's "RTW" lasted shoe trees, so I was comparing it with Girling's 115 GBP (VAT inclusive), Vass's (60-80 euros), Cleverley's (90 + GBP).
post #859 of 3042
This is a comparison with the prices from John Lobb. Look at the prices for the bespoke trees.
http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/pricelist.htm
post #860 of 3042
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

This is a comparison with the prices from John Lobb. Look at the prices for the bespoke trees.
http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/pricelist.htm

Sheesh. I'd never have guessed English bespoke shoemakers like Lobb and Girling charge these incredulous sums for their trees.

Edit: In retrospect, it makes sense because these bespoke shoe trees are probably like making a new last, and they have to sand it to size.
Edited by bboysdontcryy - 5/29/13 at 3:12pm
post #861 of 3042
Included for G&G. Not for JLST.

Lasted bespoke trees are pretty different beast than regular English RTW trees
post #862 of 3042

Quote:

Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

This is a comparison with the prices from John Lobb. Look at the prices for the bespoke trees.
http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/pricelist.htm

 

500 pounds for a pair of shoe trees!! There are plenty of people that wouldn't even spend that on a pair of shoes.

post #863 of 3042
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Sheesh. I'd never have guessed English bespoke shoemakers like Lobb and Girling charge these incredulous sums for their trees.

Edit: In retrospect, it makes sense because these bespoke shoe trees are probably like making a new last, and they have to sand it to size.

Hiro's lasted shoe trees for these MTO shoes are identical in quality to his Bespoke shoe trees (¥30K yen), but a bit more inexpensive because they are made in a batch (from the MTO base last)

I've seen them in person. Not anything fancy or deeply shaped like St.C., but at least they fit the shoes.



*

Hiro's MTO last isn't slim but they seem to fit quite snuggly where it should.

They can adjust the fit using custom insoles, but I assume you have to be there in person.
*

pics from Hiro's FB page
Edited by nutcracker - 5/29/13 at 4:55pm
post #864 of 3042
Thread Starter 
G&G Bespoke includes shoe trees, but I recall they charge 250 GBP to make an additional pair.
post #865 of 3042
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Sheesh. This is a veritable treasure trove for clothing enthusiasts cum prospective tourists who intend to call upon Japan. No way one could gain access to all this information just by scouring the net/guidebooks. Now, if only there were a Japanese clothing thread as well -- have heard that the Japanese are fastidious over details and make exceptional clothing/suits.

Well, quite a few of the places that Nutcracker has kindly documented also sell clothes (Beams, EstNation and a lot of the other stores).

You're certainly right that Tokyo has an astounding selection of great menswear stores, ranging in price from downright affordable to absolutely sky-high! They also have some extremely good sales from time to time - I still regret not picking up a pile of Holliday & Brown silk print ties when they were on sale for Y5000 at a department store in Ginza a few years back. I've also seen Finamore shirts on sale for Y10000, which is fantastic value (but unfortunately they were all far too small for me).

I love taking a wander around places like Harajuku/Aoyama and Ginza/Yurakucho when I'm in Tokyo as there are so many lovely stores, both large and small, with a great range of products and a lot of the employees are really well-informed and passionate about the clothing that they sell. I had a great discussion with a salesman at the Brooks Brothers store in Yurakucho, where we exchanged English and Japanese terms for "working buttonholes" and "floating canvas".

Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

The flip side to this wonderful line-up is that prices are exceptionally high in Japan. It's not uncommon to see scores of Japanese tourists snapping up Cleverly shoes, Hermes bags etc over here in London. A friend who visited Japan was astounded at the prices Cleverly shoes sell for over there.

Yes, imported shoes in particular are very expensive in Japan, particularly US and British shoes. Curiously, Italian-made shoes don't seem to be as outrageously priced.
post #866 of 3042
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

Well, quite a few of the places that Nutcracker has kindly documented also sell clothes (Beams, EstNation and a lot of the other stores).

You're certainly right that Tokyo has an astounding selection of great menswear stores, ranging in price from downright affordable to absolutely sky-high! They also have some extremely good sales from time to time - I still regret not picking up a pile of Holliday & Brown silk print ties when they were on sale for Y5000 at a department store in Ginza a few years back. I've also seen Finamore shirts on sale for Y10000, which is fantastic value (but unfortunately they were all far too small for me).

True Indeed!

Isetan/Mitsukoshi, Beams, UA, Barneys etc... have these Members invitation only sales throughout the year. I've been to an Isetan one before. Mostly stuffs from a year ago, but prices go from 50% to 80% off for some really good stuffs (not just odd fits and colors).
post #867 of 3042

Nutcracker, what are your thoughts on Masaru Okayama shoes?Does he offer RTW shoes?

post #868 of 3042
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by terrorsquad View Post

Nutcracker, what are your thoughts on Masaru Okayama shoes?Does he offer RTW shoes?

Okuyama-san does Bespoke only, and from what I've seen (from pictures), his works look quite impressive. He prices his shoes quite high (HKD 38000, or ¥495K yen / $4900 USD), and I can only assume that the extra $$$ reflects on the service and the quality of finish.

He lives in Hong Kong, and from what I know, he has already amassed a large list of clientele from Hong Kong and the rest of Asia. His shoes aren't available in Japan (no trunk shows yet).

Check out the interview by our very own VRaivio, published on Keikari.com.
http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-masaru-okuyama/

I know some of our SF members owns Okuyama's shoes, and have posted before on the Hardcore thread.
post #869 of 3042
Thread Starter 
There is a Corno Blu MTO and Bespoke Trunk Show starting today @ BEAMS House Marunouchi.
Pattern Order (MTO) selection features slip-ons for the summer season. Sizes available with a quarter (1/4) pitch. ¥68K yen~
Sulla Forma MTO (or Full MTO) allows you to design a pattern from scratch (with an appointment with Mr.Seikaku). For ¥89K yen~
or you can go full Bespoke for ¥336K

*
Some new models available for MTO
post #870 of 3042
Thread Starter 
A Visit to Clematis, Tokyo Part 1

Having seen quite a lot of English and Italian styled shoes recently, I was quite curious to see some home bred Japanese Bespoke at its finest. So I naturally knocked on the doors of Clematis Ginza. I made an appointment for viewing, and was greeted with a warm welcome by shoemaker Keitaro Takano.

I already knew of his stellar reputation, in terms of quality and craftsmanship, but I was greeted with much more. In short, I found his shoes to be delightfully distinctive, sometimes whimsical, and yet undoubtedly elegant.


Located in a quiet corner of the busy Ginza district


The showroom with an impressive display of shoes. The brand color 'green' quickly grows on you.

Without further ado, lets get right into some Clematis magic....from the "Red Line" Collection.

AppleMark
Plaintoe oxford in burnished lizard. The 'Red Line' collection is Clematis' test ground for new ideas.

AppleMark
The lizard skin has been sanded / burnished to a nubuck like texture.


A slick blood red sole.


The Clematis heel. The detailing is amazing.



Lizard in a blue-ish tint. The color looks subdued and classy in a way. The toe and the heel are left slick and polished


with a blue sole....



Full Brogues from the 'Red Line'. with an unique red stained edge

AppleMark
More examples of Clematis's full handmade shoes.


A bootie with a calf/suede combo. The lacestay portion is stained darker.


A whole cut elastic slip-on with full imitation brogues.


Takano-san doesn't use marking wheels. Yes, they are all individually marked by hand.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread