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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 6

post #76 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

The only Japanese bespoke shoemaker I know who had a show in New York is Koji Suzuki. If I recall correctly from the interview (the one I translated), he said the interest generated at Styleforum played a big part to make the show happen.

So yeah, I say it's definitely possible to have these makers visit the states, if we generate enough interest to guarantee enough orders if they come.

It's a pretty competitive market at the west coast with marquee names such as JL St James, Cleverley, G&G, and JLP bespoke
already traveling to SF/LA. Not to say there are still local makers at Oregon and Seattle areas...

But then at the current Fx, Japanese bespoke is a viable alternative to some of the British makers that seems to be in a decline.
post #77 of 2750
Thread Starter 
"ISETAN JAPAN SENSES "MEN'S FESTIVAL OF JAPANESE CRAFTSMEN", Saturday April 6th, 2013

REPORT Part1



a total of 20 master-craftsmen (tailors, shoemakers, accessory makers) showed up today at Isetan's event space

AppleMark
Co-sponsored by MEN'S EX, our favourite men's fashion magazine??

On the tailors side, notable big names such as maestro Sato Hideaki (from Pecora Ginza) was there. I didnt get to see Suzuki Ichiro (Henry Pool) or Japanese pantalonaio Osaku Hayato, but their works were there for display/order

Of course, my main objective was to see some nice shoos


Otsuka Shoes, with all its glorious history

Otsuka's top of the line full handmade RTW shoes


Sarto booth, the finest band of repair specialists




custom Edoya Shoebrushes


Sarto's room shoes in shell cordovan


"BOOTBLACK" Japan's answer to Saphir

AppleMark
Custom shoecare trunk

AppleMark
Bespoke Shoeshiner, Matsumuro. aka Maestro.


his shiny shoes. He only uses cream polishes. He took them off and flexed them for me. No cracking whatsoever.
If only I knew he was there to give shoeshines, I wouldn't have worn my suede shoes......bummer




Bespoke leather bags by Ortus, formerly Clematis


Nakata Hanger: The finest hangers in the world. Shaped from a single piece of wood.

continued to Part 2
Edited by nutcracker - 4/7/13 at 6:25am
post #78 of 2750
Actually I tried to use only cream pollish to get the split shine. However, it is a harder method because it is quiet easy to get the leather damped, hence hard to get a shine

And if one only put enough hard wax on the flex, it should not flex.
Edited by add911_11 - 4/6/13 at 2:01am
post #79 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Thanks for all the info nutcracker; was also wondering what it's like quality wise. Quality to price wise will I be getting more quality going for the 50k Japanese shoes compared to the 50k Meermin (which I assume is on the lower end of the 50-100k spread).
Pretty sure I'll get a Japanese made shoe preferably midtier something equivalent to a C&J hand or bench grade if I spend too much on food smile.gif

Again thanks for the info; I understand I'm asking a lot of questions :P

It's really hard to say. I've tried several pairs of ¥50K Miyagi Kogyo shoes, and I thought they were excellent. Shape, fit was good, and the stitchwork/soles were finished very neatly. From the MEN'S EX issue where they took a pair of Miyagi shoes apart, the 'experts' said the quality was on par with Edward Green. But of course, I can't just buy their words. They do have a bias towards Japanese shoes, partially to encourage the industry.

But one thing is for certain. The weakening yen has made Japanese shoes a whole lot cheaper to get, than lets say half a year ago.
post #80 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post

Hello everyone.

I'm a japanese blogger about bespoke makers

il Quadrifoglio bespoke straight tip oxford, made by Atushi Qnai(Kyunai)

really glamorous shoes

Photo: http://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com/


A phenomenal welcome to the forum...good luck in your ventures....

I took the liberty to post some of my favourites from your blog.

 

 

 

 

post #81 of 2750

I had a truly dreadful experience with Guild of Crafts MTO (semi-bespoke)

 

They took measurements for 45 minutes (good for me, better safe than sorry) but the shoes arrived with such a huge difference comparing to my actual size (a real 0.5 size difference I'd say).

 

Anyway, I wasn't going to fly back to Japan to have them corrected so I asked my shoemaker in Italy to take care of it but it was quite disappointing, especially at 1700 EUR for MTO.

post #82 of 2750
Thanks for all the help nutcracker!
post #83 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post

I had a truly dreadful experience with Guild of Crafts MTO (semi-bespoke)

They took measurements for 45 minutes (good for me, better safe than sorry) but the shoes arrived with such a huge difference comparing to my actual size (a real 0.5 size difference I'd say).

Anyway, I wasn't going to fly back to Japan to have them corrected so I asked my shoemaker in Italy to take care of it but it was quite disappointing, especially at 1700 EUR for MTO.

wow that sucks
i know GOC has a test fitting session included for their MTO program. Even if you omitted that, 0.5 size difference sounds bad
post #84 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Thanks for all the help nutcracker!

You're most welcome.
I've posted these before, but here's some pics of CENTRAL SHOES, one of the nicer RTW shoes











Central shoes also makes Sanyo Yamacho shoes. When it comes to goodyear welted shoes, possibly the best factory in Japan along with Miyagi Kogyo

they've just released a lot more designs for the summer season, including couple of nice slip ons
post #85 of 2750

nutcracker: Thanks a lot.keep up the great work!

clee1982: Thank you very much.

poorsod: Thank you. classic round toe & chisel squared toe

IIovelobbs: Thank you for viewing my blog.

 : 


Edited by BespokeMakers - 4/6/13 at 6:52am
post #86 of 2750
CLEMATIS Bespoke Chukka Boots, made by Keitaro Takano

 

 

 


Edited by BespokeMakers - 4/6/13 at 7:02am
post #87 of 2750
Yes, Koji Suzuki has had several trunk shows in New York.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/71558/koji-suzuki-bespoke-order-trip-to-new-york-august-22-24

Bic
post #88 of 2750

I'll be back in Japan from June for 10 months so this is now my favourite thread on the forum. Thanks, nutcracker.

post #89 of 2750
Thread Starter 
"ISETAN JAPAN SENSES "MEN'S FESTIVAL OF JAPANESE CRAFTSMEN", Saturday April 6th, 2013

REPORT Part2

Marquess (Kawaguchi Shoji)


First Impression: understated, classic English


Look closely, they are finished to the nth degree

AppleMark
Full brogues. Dead stock Freudenburg calfskin


Workdesk on site


Mr.Kawaguchi's lovely wife Yuriko (also English trained, they met in England) is the other half of Marquess. She does the patterning, clicking and closing. Husband Shoji is in charge of last making and bottom making. Very charming couple

AppleMark
The silhouette is absolutely stunning. I can really tell Kawaguchi-san's soft spoken character reflected on these. He doesn't like flashy. His signature Marquess Round has a smooth silhouette, and it seemed well thought through and calculated.


Marquess sole. I've seen pictures of lovely fiddlebacks done by him. But personally, he much prefers this soft and lightly bevelled waist sole. Fiddle waists also tend to make the sole look bulged. With all the fiddle waists around, this almost looks fresh

AppleMark
Black diamond. Deadstock Freudenburg calf hide proudly hangs above his booth.

Mr. and Mrs. Kawaguchi are undoubtedly skilled with solid resumes, yet I was really struck at how humble he was. A really nice fellow to chat with. He's not a kind who's eager to assert or prove a point. His works do all the talking.

I told Mr.Kawaguchi I will post his photo here, but being a bit apprehensive, he said 'not if it looks ugly'. Unfortunately for me, his eyes were shut, so I will keep the pics to myself. Sorry Kawaguchi-san!

Marquess bespoke starts from ¥330,000 yen. definitely a bargain. Sooner or later, I believe the price will be raised to ¥400,000. so fly to Japan and line up boys, Lead time is 1 year.
Edited by nutcracker - 4/8/13 at 4:28am
post #90 of 2750
Thread Starter 
"ISETAN JAPAN SENSES "MEN'S FESTIVAL OF JAPANESE CRAFTSMEN", Saturday April 6th, 2013

REPORT Part3

CORNO BLU (Seikaku Yutaka)



Bespoke Sample. Chiselled form seem to reflect the Italian pedigree.

AppleMark
Beautiful sole.


Bespoke Sample.


These are all RTW samples. Seikaku san, aside from his bespoke practice, has branched out to create the CORNO BLU RTW line, goodyear welted, machine made shoes by Central Shoes and available at Isetan and Beams. For the RTW shoes, sizes are available at every 2.5mm pitch, or 1/4 inch. There is also a MTO program based on this RTW collection. And what is so fascinating about this MTO program is that upon 1st order, you will be given a personalised last (customized from a base last) that can be used for subsequent orders. But the catch is that shoes are all machine made (bench made), goodyear welted shoes with relatively affordable price. The program also allows you to create a pattern from scratch. Basically you can have a Bespoke like experience for a lot less (and machine made), and to come back for more with your personalised last. This is scary scary stuff.


Lazy-man shoes design from the RTW/MTO collection.



Finish and quality look top notch for a Japanese RTW shoes. Nice fiddled waist finish.

AppleMark
Seikaku-san.
Edited by nutcracker - 4/6/13 at 9:51am
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