Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[nutcracker]



Isetan must had a long list of Japanese cordwainers to team up with and in the end they went with Roberto Ugolino for design and Vass
to scale the production front. 

I guess it's possibly economics and logistics of: shortage of skilled labour coupled with production cost in Japan. So the niche to target the
high-end & high-margin bespoke market.

Ugolini/Vass project with Isetan was quite a few years ago Perceptions for domestic brands have changed quite a bit since. Isetan is all pushing Made in Japan now (possibly since the earthquake).

In the past few years, Isetan teamed with: Otsuka, Tsukui Reiko (Lecott), Yoshiharu Hasegawa, Union Imperial for exclusive offerings. The Isetan exclusive full hand made Otsuka Limited shoes are priced at 200K JPY, directly aimed at top priced imported shoes.

But of course, Isetan still does collab with foreign brands too. Not long ago, they had a special MTO (design your own) fair with Crockett & Jones, not something any store can pull off.

 

[nutcracker]



Isetan must had a long list of Japanese cordwainers to team up with and in the end they went with Roberto Ugolino for design and Vass
to scale the production front. 

I guess it's possibly economics and logistics of: shortage of skilled labour coupled with production cost in Japan. So the niche to target the
high-end & high-margin bespoke market.

well actually, 5 yrs ago or so, Isetan teamed with a Japanese maker to release exclusive Made in Japan rtw shoes called Mark Bladog? priced around 100K~150K JPY or so. I think they did miserably, and was took off the shelf in a relatively short time

 

[nutcracker]

Otsuka's signature Button Up Boots. In production since 1907

Full handmade RTW, Calf/ Goat Suede, priced ¥225,000

 

[clee1982]



Otsuka's signature Button Up Boots. In production since 1907

Full handmade RTW, Calf/ Goat Suede, priced ¥225,000

That's an interesting concept actually, though the price is a bit...

 

[nutcracker]

SAION Bespoke Catalogue Full Scan

 

[meister]



Misawa Noriyuki's brogues: Viennese Style (with a lil bit of Materna's DNA)

Tarsal straps. :tounge: What a beautiful shoe!

 

[chogall]

OVERSEAS
Il Micio (Fukaya Hidetaka): @ Florence
Hayafuji Ryota: @ Munich
Masaru Okuyama: @ Hong Kong http://www.masaruokuyama.com
Emiko Matsuda: @ Foster & Sons
Kuroki Satoshi: @ John Lobb Paris

Didn't know REGAL has a bespoke operation.

I know that Ms Matsuda has a huge influence inside Foster & Sons nowadays.

But what does Kuroki Satoshi do @ JL Paris?

 

[nutcracker]



But what does Kuroki Satoshi do @ JL Paris?

I think he is currently the footwear pattern engineer, meaning he creates the patterns for RTW that will be mass produced. I'm not certain of this info, maybe someone can chime in. He's been working at JL for quite.
He also continues to work as an outworker in Northampton.
He visits Japan occasionally and gives lectures

 

[nutcracker]



Didn't know REGAL has a bespoke operation.

I know that Ms Matsuda has a huge influence inside Foster & Sons nowadays.

But what does Kuroki Satoshi do @ JL Paris?

SAION's Yokoyama used to be in charge of REGAL's bespoke operation before he went solo as SAION


Some REGAL Bespoke I found on their site

Norwegian welt

Horween shell cordovan / Norwegian welt

 

[Verniza]

This thread is making me rethink my holiday plans.

Japan seems to have such a vibrant artisanal community and I would really love to visit them. Are prices more affordable than the European makers though? Considering the large amount of competition of artisans in Japan.

 

[add911_11]



This thread is making me rethink my holiday plans.

Japan seems to have such a vibrant artisanal community and I would really love to visit them. Are prices more affordable than the European makers though? Considering the large amount of competition of artisans in Japan.

No, expect them just as expensive than UK's top bespoke operation. However, their RTW is pretty good value it seems.

Europe (especially Poland, Hungary) have very talented shoemaker in very good price, but the question is do you like their style?

 

[Verniza]



No, expect them just as expensive than UK's top bespoke operation. However, their RTW is pretty good value it seems.

Europe (especially Poland, Hungary) have very talented shoemaker in very good price, but the question is do you like their style?

Oh damn I was hoping to it won't be as high as UK. 5 thou is too much for me to drop at this point.

I find European makers(Eastern Europe) a huge hit or miss for me. Some have puke worthy patina while some have too aggressive lasts and some have too clunky lasts.

I just like deep rich mirror shines and a well balanced last between sleek/classic.

 

[nutcracker]



This thread is making me rethink my holiday plans.

Japan seems to have such a vibrant artisanal community and I would really love to visit them. Are prices more affordable than the European makers though? Considering the large amount of competition of artisans in Japan.

You are quite right. Competition is quite fierce in Japan. Price varies by a lot. Unless you are already an established maker, most bespoke makers have to compete with high end- imported RTW shoes too, like JL or GG etc...

Theres lots of factors that determine bespoke pricing, including fame, but I say the average price for a full bespoke shoes in Japan is ¥200,000 or so.

Established makers with enough reputation and clienteles charge as much as ¥350,000~¥390,000, equivalent to big name English makers.

some crazy makers go from ¥500,000 or more (Guild of Crafts)


The Misawa & Workshop's bespoke spectators (in brown and beige) in you see above in this page is ¥200,000.

 

[Louis XIV]

I am interested how well educated Japanese shoemakers are in orthopedics.
I understand a lot of Japenese shoemakers have taken shoe making apprenticeships in Europe and begun their local shops afterwards.
There does not seem to exist a Japenese master craftsmanship degree which certifies not only your technical skill but your theoretical knowledge about the human body.
So while I enjoy the looks of the shoes a lot, they easily can compete with the best European makers designwise in my opinion, I am uncertain how much they care about the right stand and gait of the wearer.
To me a bespoke pair of shoes should mainly be about health and only about design in the second place.

 

[coloRLOw]

the diagram behind the shoes is interesting
who has a similar but clearer one？