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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 39

post #571 of 2861
Just compare the two shoes:




The suede shoe is so incredibly deep in the heel area, that I suspect it is one of those “Elevator Shoes”, where a big built-in insole wedge will add an additional inch or more to the owner’s height.
post #572 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Just compare the two shoes:



The suede shoe is so incredibly deep in the heel area, that I suspect it is one of those “Elevator Shoes”, where a big built-in insole wedge will add an additional inch or more to the owner’s height.

I'm not 100% sure that it was inteded to be an 'elavator' type, but yes, the heel is quite deep on that one, would be quite an clever and good looking solution to inconspicuously raise height.

Here is another one of Endou's sample shoes (not my picture)

A seemless wholecut with a pinched nose (reminds me of a similar Corthay with a center crease)






Edited by nutcracker - 5/10/13 at 8:23am
post #573 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

A seemless wholecut with a pinched nose (reminds me of a similar Corthay with a center crease)






Now that's a pair of shoes.
Hey NT, Can you let me know his optional charges on his bespoke line? My poor Japanese fails to understand the slangs :-P
post #574 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

gentille & 79, Tokyo

Shoe repair and order salon gentille opened just last year, tucked in the small neighborhood of Fudomae. Already known as one of the few repair shops in Tokyo that can do full blown hand stitched recrafting, owner Koji Endou is also an accomplished shoemaker. With over 10 years of experience in shoemaking and repairing, he also apprenticed briefly under Anthony Delos at the Loire atelier.

Endou's bespoke line, '79 soixante-dix-neuf', is available for order at the atelier. Price starts at a generous ¥190,000 yen for full handmade bespoke shoes.




More norwegian welts.

I like the norwegian welt stopping in the middle like that
post #575 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Now that's a pair of shoes.
Hey NT, Can you let me know his optional charges on his bespoke line? My poor Japanese fails to understand the slangs :-P

Haha sure, I think this is how it goes

・Double Welt+¥5,000
・Bevelled Waist+¥10,000
・Norwegian Welted Single+¥20,000
・Norwegian Welted Double+¥30,000
・Norwegian Welted & Bevelled Waist+¥30,000
・Norwegian +¥20,000
・Fiddle Back+¥5,000
・Half Mid Sole+¥4,000
・Full Mid Sole+¥6,000
post #576 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Now that's interesting....looks like real lacestays and tongues, but are those laces real (functional)? or fake lol8[1].gif

unrelated question, any idea why doesn't Artioli doesn't use those elastic thing on the side like this guy
post #577 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

I'm not 100% sure that it was inteded to be an 'elavator' type, but yes, the heel is quite deep on that one, would be quite an clever and good looking solution to inconspicuously raise height.

Here is another one of Endou's sample shoes (not my picture)

A seemless wholecut with a pinched nose (reminds me of a similar Corthay with a center crease)





Those last ones have some similarities to Bestteti shoes with teh eagle claw toes.
post #578 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

I like the norwegian welt stopping in the middle like that

WOW, I am sure they never made thes in UK12.5 as MTO, perhaps I should try them. Very nice.
post #579 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Just compare the two shoes:




The suede shoe is so incredibly deep in the heel area, that I suspect it is one of those “Elevator Shoes”, where a big built-in insole wedge will add an additional inch or more to the owner’s height.

Same sole, top with full, bottom is half sole.
post #580 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saratorial_Splender View Post

Those last ones have some similarities to Bestteti shoes with teh eagle claw toes.

Those are called eagle claw toes?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saratorial_Splender View Post

WOW, I am sure they never made thes in UK12.5 as MTO, perhaps I should try them. Very nice.


That particular sample shoe is size 27.5 (UK 9), and that's already considered extra large here in Japan lol8[1].gif
post #581 of 2861
bengal-stripe, have you any info on when and where that pinched toe was born? I've only ever seen examples of this eccentric shape on Corthay's pairs and now this Japanese chap's offerings.
post #582 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

bengal-stripe, have you any info on when and where that pinched toe was born?

I have no idea if anyone (earlier than Corthay) has used that (or a similar) toe shape previously. Maybe Cothay "invented" it, maybe he was inspired by something historical. There have been all kind of weird shoes over the last few hundred years.

I cannot say, I find that toe shape desirable. But then........"One man's meat is another man's poison!"
post #583 of 2861

Corthay "Satan", for reference...

 

 

post #584 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Rome's very own Marini is having a bespoke show right now at Tie Your Tie, Tokyo....ends tomorrow..maybe I'll take a peek
post #585 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Shoe Shopping in Aoyama, Tokyo

Had a chance to stroll around the Aoyama district in Tokyo (a walkable distance from my place). Mainly a quiet residential neighbourhood, the place is nevertheless littered with museums, eateries, antique shops, and fashion boutiques that seem to occupy every other building. And yes, lots of stores carrying fine footwear. So for those thinking about visiting Tokyo, here is a little guide to the shoe brands available in the Aoyama area.

Here is a fine map of the Aoyama area created by the folks at BRIFT H. Stores are concentrated around and between the Miyuki Street (above) and the Kotto Street (below). Fashion boutiques tend to center around the former, while more artsy establishments (galleries, antique shops, and for my purpose, shoe stores) seem to surround the latter.



So let's start from Brift H, where you can get your own A3 size copy of this map....

AppleMark
Brift H, shoe polish extraordinaire. Bring in your shoes and watch Mr. Hasegawa and his boys do some magic.


Right below Brift H, is Tailor & Cutter (Bespoke suits).
Mr. Arita was trained as a cutter in Gieves & Hawkes London, and as a tailor in Ichibankan, Tokyo.

AppleMark
Some Aoyama landmarks.....Prada, but sorry not interested


Nezu Museum, the other landmark, nice shades


Happy Strollers...surprisingly, the whole area is relatively car-free


Garden creatures...Okamoto Taro Museum

So lets go looking for shoes....

AppleMark
The Lakota House. Everything Alden. They also carry their house brand Pegman

AppleMark
Paraboot


Maison Corthay


The General Store carries Anthony Cleverley

AppleMark
Lloyd Footwear for fine English shoes


Look what I found, a Ring Jacket boutique. They stock Gaziano & Girling


Tie Your Tie. You can order bespoke shoes by Il Micio: Hidetaka Fukaya, and Rome's very own Marini.Oh yeah they sell ties too


British Made for Church's and Cheaney


JM Weston

AppleMark
Classic menswear powerhouse, Strasburgo. They are the distributor of Edward Green in Japan


Vulcanize London. A fortress of British luxury stuffs. You can get Crockett & Jones here


Trading Post for pretty much every other brand: St.Crispin, Trickers, Carmina, C&J, Bestetti, Allen Edmonds, C&J, and also Japanese brand Soffice & Solid. They also take orders for the MTO brand Hall & Marks.


Across Trading Post....The Art of Shoemaking. Peek in the glass door and you'll see Yohei Fukuda hard at work

So there you go. Right next to the Aoyama area, there are the Harajuku area and Omotesando area for more shopping. That's a good 1/2 day in Tokyo for you.

Thanks to BRIFT H for helping me out (and for the map)
www.brift-h.com
Edited by nutcracker - 5/10/13 at 9:58pm
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