Originally Posted by chogall
So in the case of reducing width or adding volume, they would have to relast the shoes and most likely making a new insole? And if bad enough, making a new upper? Or they just going to stretch or heat shrink the problematic areas??
Well, how to solve a certain problem, has to to be decided on a case by case basis. Over the centuries, shoemakers have acquired a few nasty and/or naughty tricks and have learned how to make a shoe fit, even if the fit is initially somewhat off. Also some firms will be more ruthless than others. It depends on the degree of the problem, whether a bit of stretching or shrinking will do or if a partial or a complete re-make is required. Most of the time, you will get the existing upper to fit over the revised last, but if the problem is too big, then a new upper needs to be made.
Shoemaking firms (at least those can afford to charge high prices) calculate with a not inconsiderable margin, as to cover the costs for required re-makes. After all, in the end it all comes out in the wash: one job goes swimmingly and brings a nice profit, while the other one just breaks even or, in the worst case scenario, comes in at a loss. As long as the profit at the end of the year comes up to expectations, all is well. Of course, if a firm has more re-makes than good fits, they might consider if they are in the right line of work.
[quote name="chogall" url="/t/343005/japanese-shoes-bespoke-rtw-super-thread/540#post_6329424"How about the process for full Norvegese sewn construction shoes? Since these shoes won't have welts and would be heard to stretch without damaging the upper?[/quote]
Norwegian construction (leave that Norvegese
to the Italians) is a quite rare beast in English shoemaking. A firm might refuse to do a Norwegian for a first-time customer, (or craftily try to talk you out of the idea), just as they do not like to work in expensive exotics or make a 'casual' (loafer) for a new customer.