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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 260

post #3886 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Eyelets would be ok, using one of these


At least, that settles that! biggrin.gif
post #3887 of 4031
Must be morning fog, but I don't see a problem. Admittedly I have never done it this way but eyes could be punched before the shoe is lasted.

And as for trimming, I'd simply punch a very small hole through the lining, near the bottom and between the facings, and trim the lining a half centimeter or so (more or less) up from that hole. Again before lasting. Then it's just a straight shot from the top of the facings to this previously trimmed area.

Of course, I use a very small French skive to trim lining, and that makes the concept feasible (It also leaves a neat beveled edge on the lining esp. if the lining is veg.)

--
Edited by DWFII - 7/26/16 at 8:03am
post #3888 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Trimming that lining neatly after making will always be an issue, as will cutting the lining without damaging the tongue.
very true
esp. if teh person
is not very...
precise..
to wit:

uneven trimming and
damaging stitching of
teh lining
207b8ex.jpg


cutting into
teh beading:
2zea4ya.jpg
fe3ucg.jpg
11se26c.jpg


rough cutting
at teh base:
rj0dqo.jpg
28gtmqa.jpg


or even cutting
the stitching of
teh beading
at the base:
t0m4xz.jpg


that being said
many italians use
this method
(usually with teh eyelets
punched out before lasting)
but the work
is much cleaner
post #3889 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

very true
esp. if teh person
is not very...
precise..
to wit:

uneven trimming and
damaging stitching of
teh lining

cutting into
teh beading:

rough cutting
at teh base:

or even cutting
the stitching of
teh beading
at the base:

that being said
many italians use
this method
(usually with teh eyelets
punched out before lasting)
but the work
is much cleaner

Oh!!

Chrome tanned lining (and soft)--I don't know how you trim that really, really clean even if the maker is very precise.
post #3890 of 4031
Just speculating, but another way to do what Bestetti is doing, is, as @ntempleman suggested, simply to make that bridging leather a separate piece. Punch the eyes and trim as usual, then add the bridging piece and sew with white (or contrasting) thread using a round point needle (so as not to cut existing threads) right into the same holes as the closing stitches.

Last and bottom the shoes.

When the shoe is done, the white threads would be carefully picked and the whole bridging piece simply slid out. (Again, the bridging piece doesn't have to extend all the way to the bottom of the facings.)

In fact, this might be the only way it could be done with Derbys.

Just a thought...
post #3891 of 4031

Some more pics today. Really happy with the service from Marquess, and fit is great!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Specially like the last one with the bevelled waist.

Last pair I also tried for the first time today, from Brass Tokyo.

post #3892 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post

Some more pics today. Really happy with the service from Marquess, and fit is great!























Specially like the last one with the bevelled waist.


Last pair I also tried for the first time today, from Brass Tokyo.


Big fan of the shoes
post #3893 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post


Big fan of the shoes


Thank you :)

post #3894 of 4031
I am planning an upcoming trip to Japan and am thinking of commissioning a pair of bespoke shoes. I was wondering which shoemakers were amenable to overseas orders / English-speaking clients? From reading the thread, it looks like Yohei Fukuda, Marquess and Hiro Yanagimachi all speak good English, while Main D'Or understands enough English and has written notes that make ordering possible, and Spigola does not like to deal with English speaking clients. What about Clematis? Are there any others that people would recommend?
post #3895 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by dawei94 View Post

I am planning an upcoming trip to Japan and am thinking of commissioning a pair of bespoke shoes. I was wondering which shoemakers were amenable to overseas orders / English-speaking clients? From reading the thread, it looks like Yohei Fukuda, Marquess and Hiro Yanagimachi all speak good English, while Main D'Or understands enough English and has written notes that make ordering possible, and Spigola does not like to deal with English speaking clients. What about Clematis? Are there any others that people would recommend?

 

Keitaro Takano (the main shoemaker) for Clematis is unable to speak English, but Chiemi is usually around. She speaks English quite well and translates to Takano pertaining to very specific / technical shoe making terms. You would not have a problem ordering from them. 

post #3896 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by dawei94 View Post

I am planning an upcoming trip to Japan and am thinking of commissioning a pair of bespoke shoes. I was wondering which shoemakers were amenable to overseas orders / English-speaking clients? From reading the thread, it looks like Yohei Fukuda, Marquess and Hiro Yanagimachi all speak good English, while Main D'Or understands enough English and has written notes that make ordering possible, and Spigola does not like to deal with English speaking clients. What about Clematis? Are there any others that people would recommend?


I've have pairs from Marquess and Hiro Yanagimachi, and they're both a pleasure to deal with. Also met with Yohei Fukuda numerous times, and he's a great guy that I want to get a pair made from soon. Met with Clematis too, but he personally didn't speak much English. (I speak Japanese though, so I didn't really experience any difficulties.)

post #3897 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by dawei94 View Post

I am planning an upcoming trip to Japan and am thinking of commissioning a pair of bespoke shoes. I was wondering which shoemakers were amenable to overseas orders / English-speaking clients? From reading the thread, it looks like Yohei Fukuda, Marquess and Hiro Yanagimachi all speak good English, while Main D'Or understands enough English and has written notes that make ordering possible, and Spigola does not like to deal with English speaking clients. What about Clematis? Are there any others that people would recommend?

 

As stated above, Keitaro San doesn't speak English himself, but his co-worker Chiemi does and she translates very well. I know several who don't speak Japanese who have ordered shoes from Clematis, and had a good process.

 

Another one that could be interesting to check out is Seiji McCarthy, who recently started his own brand, setting up a workshop in World Footwear Gallery's main store. He's half American and has lived in the US, and he definitley speaks good English. I think he's a bit cheaper than the others since he's new on the scene.


Edited by j ingevaldsson - 8/4/16 at 12:42am
post #3898 of 4031

I can confirm that Seiji speaks perfect perfect English through my email correpondences with him. 

He's also a friendly guy. 

His MTM starts at 240K and his bespoke starts at 320K Yen. 

post #3899 of 4031

Wow, it looks like Japan has already made its place as the bespoke shoe capital of the world! I remember when I arrived in 1987, I could not find a decent shoe repairer...how things have changed! Union Works is the best shoe repairer in the world, and just look at the bespoke makers...

post #3900 of 4031
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post
 

Wow, it looks like Japan has already made its place as the bespoke shoe capital of the world! I remember when I arrived in 1987, I could not find a decent shoe repairer...how things have changed! Union Works is the best shoe repairer in the world, and just look at the bespoke makers...

 

I'd have to agree. I'm very new to the shoe game, but Japanese bespoke looks to surpass most English bespoke makers by a mile and then some. TYE, Hiro Yanagimachi, Clematis, Marquess, Yohei Fukuda, and Main d'Or just look better than the competiton, other than maybe Gaziano Girling bespoke. Other than that, Japanese bespoke blows the rest out of the water. Additionally, Japanese bespoke makers have excellent IG accounts ;) 

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