or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 260

post #3886 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Eyelets would be ok, using one of these


At least, that settles that! biggrin.gif
post #3887 of 3890
Must be morning fog, but I don't see a problem. Admittedly I have never done it this way but eyes could be punched before the shoe is lasted.

And as for trimming, I'd simply punch a very small hole through the lining, near the bottom and between the facings, and trim the lining a half centimeter or so (more or less) up from that hole. Again before lasting. Then it's just a straight shot from the top of the facings to this previously trimmed area.

Of course, I use a very small French skive to trim lining, and that makes the concept feasible (It also leaves a neat beveled edge on the lining esp. if the lining is veg.)

--
Edited by DWFII - 7/26/16 at 8:03am
post #3888 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Trimming that lining neatly after making will always be an issue, as will cutting the lining without damaging the tongue.
very true
esp. if teh person
is not very...
precise..
to wit:

uneven trimming and
damaging stitching of
teh lining
207b8ex.jpg


cutting into
teh beading:
2zea4ya.jpg
fe3ucg.jpg
11se26c.jpg


rough cutting
at teh base:
rj0dqo.jpg
28gtmqa.jpg


or even cutting
the stitching of
teh beading
at the base:
t0m4xz.jpg


that being said
many italians use
this method
(usually with teh eyelets
punched out before lasting)
but the work
is much cleaner
post #3889 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

very true
esp. if teh person
is not very...
precise..
to wit:

uneven trimming and
damaging stitching of
teh lining

cutting into
teh beading:

rough cutting
at teh base:

or even cutting
the stitching of
teh beading
at the base:

that being said
many italians use
this method
(usually with teh eyelets
punched out before lasting)
but the work
is much cleaner

Oh!!

Chrome tanned lining (and soft)--I don't know how you trim that really, really clean even if the maker is very precise.
post #3890 of 3890
Just speculating, but another way to do what Bestetti is doing, is, as @ntempleman suggested, simply to make that bridging leather a separate piece. Punch the eyes and trim as usual, then add the bridging piece and sew with white (or contrasting) thread using a round point needle (so as not to cut existing threads) right into the same holes as the closing stitches.

Last and bottom the shoes.

When the shoe is done, the white threads would be carefully picked and the whole bridging piece simply slid out. (Again, the bridging piece doesn't have to extend all the way to the bottom of the facings.)

In fact, this might be the only way it could be done with Derbys.

Just a thought...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread