Originally Posted by shoefan
I've done both methods -- last to measure and last 1/4" under at the top of the facings. I am inclined now to do the latter, but then you need to remember you've done it that way! Moreover, if you do a derby, you need to add a build up to the last if you want to close the facings parallel and have them parallel when worn.
Bestetti does seem to close with the lining bridging the cone; it is impressive. Not sure I could even begin to imagine doing it that way.
I have done it both ways as well and for reasons that go way back and deep in my Traditions I am leaning more and more towards making the last exactly the same as the foot and lasting with the facings where I want them to be when worn. I don't know how others do it but I had to more or less "invent" ((probably invented many times before) a technique to lace them with the facings straight and yet a cm apart at the top (oxfords).
But I make some ankle high shoes...like jodhpurs and chelseas...that have no laces and which I want to be snug and exact--like a pull-on boot would be. And once I get a last approved by the customer I want to be able to use that last for as many styles of shoe as I can without having to mess with the fit over and over again.
But like I said, I've gone back and forth and may well go back again.
As for the Bestetti's...the only thing I can think of is that he's blocking the liners and closing the uppers on the lining without cutting the facings free. I may be wrong but I do a lot of blocking and that just seems like an obvious solution.