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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 258

post #3856 of 4059

Is that Marquess Round or Classic?

post #3857 of 4059
Stefan: That's amazing service for sure! I like this new toe shape better toe, balances the rest of the quite long shoe and slim waist and heel better.
post #3858 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

Is that Marquess Round or Classic?

It's based more off a marquess round, but I would say it's somewhere in the middle

Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Stefan: That's amazing service for sure! I like this new toe shape better toe, balances the rest of the quite long shoe and slim waist and heel better.

Takk :) I prefer this too :)

post #3859 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post

It's based more off a marquess round, but I would say it's somewhere in the middle
Takk smile.gif I prefer this too smile.gif
gorgeous. how much did he charge to change the last and relast the shoes?
post #3860 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post


gorgeous. how much did he charge to change the last and relast the shoes?


Nothing. There was another little something he had to correct, but I didn't realise the amount of extra work changing the toe shape meant. 

post #3861 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post


Nothing. There was another little something he had to correct, but I didn't realise the amount of extra work changing the toe shape meant. 

Huge undertaking - could you document what he did? This is quite exciting and interesting!
post #3862 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD View Post

JP shoe experts, there was a shop in Harajuku down the street from Harajuku station toward Shibuya. It was really small and they sold some RTW calfskin joints made in Asakusa as well as some Tricker's. Their shoes seemed like a step up from AE and were, I think, around 40,000 yen per pair, but I cannot remember the name for the life of me.

Anyone familiar?

I am pretty sure it's Trading post, which is a 2x5 store. If you have time, ask if there are any outlet sale coming up. I was super lucky to be there when they had one, and they had carminas and zonkey boots for between 30-40 thousand yen, but the best was definitely their house brand (trading post by carlos santos). I snagged a balmoral boot for 20.000 yen.

If I'm not mistaken, this particular branch is where all the sale last pieces go from all over japan.
post #3863 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

Huge undertaking - could you document what he did? This is quite exciting and interesting!
He fastened the shank. Not sure what you call it, but it was loose.

In addition, as service, he relasted it to my more recent last with improved fit around the arch, and changed the shape of the toe (reshaping the toe puff completely).
To do this, the shoe had to be relasted, rewelted, and resolved with new sole stitching too, all done by hand.
Edited by Stefan88 - 7/25/16 at 2:34am
post #3864 of 4059
ThinkDerm, re-lasting can be done to most leather shoes. There was an old, interesting RJman article on A Suitable Wardrobe back in the days, maybe it's been transferred to the new site as well. Arduous and expensive work, but worth it if you're attached to some shoes that you'd like to wear with a better fit.
post #3865 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post


He fastened this thing between the sole and insole. Not sure what you call it, but it was loose.

In addition, as service, he relasted it to my more recent later with improved fit around the arch, and changed the shape of the toe (reshaping the toe puff completely).
To do this, the shoe had to be relasted, rewelted, and resolved with new sole stitching too, all done by hand.

 

I think you're referring to the shank....

But yes, looks like he went through a tremendous amount of work indeed!

post #3866 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMarch View Post

I think you're referring to the shank....
But yes, looks like he went through a tremendous amount of work indeed!

Thanks! Edited!
post #3867 of 4059
That's the beauty of hand welted shoes, as long as the upper is still in a good state you can strip them back to just the upper and remake them if necessary. It's also not uncommon to strip the upper and refront that, if the vamp has had it but the quarters are still ok. Although I wonder why anyone would go quite that far rather than just make a new upper, but they do.
post #3868 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

That's the beauty of hand welted shoes, as long as the upper is still in a good state you can strip them back to just the upper and remake them if necessary. It's also not uncommon to strip the upper and refront that, if the vamp has had it but the quarters are still ok. Although I wonder why anyone would go quite that far rather than just make a new upper, but they do.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BH4RPVvBxPv/
post #3869 of 4059
Classic LSJ manoeuvre, seen a good few of those in my years there along with all manner of weird and wonderful restorations
post #3870 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Classic LSJ manoeuvre, seen a good few of those in my years there along with all manner of weird and wonderful restorations

Why didn't anyone advise that chap that something better could be done to his shoes?







That "restoration" is hardly 'weird and wonderful', just downright weird!
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