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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 245

post #3661 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

You can find them in stores like goodsjapan if you google for Japanese skiving knives, I'm not sure what they're called though. Most heavy duty skiving is done with a pushing motion though, even with the more traditional long or curved profile blades.

I didn't know that but that's the way I was taught and the way I do it. Everyone else I've run across seems to want to pull. I've done it both ways but prefer to push although in the right hands / right circumstances pulling works well. I've seen European shoemakers pull skiving against a plate of glass held to their chests.

I have a couple of the Japanese shoemakers knives and I like them in some situations. The first one I got was given to me by a Japanese shoemaker and is pretty good steel. It was the definition of "scary sharp" when I first got it. The other I bought from goodsjapan through Ebay (?) and it has a curved blade. Wasn't as sharp initially but is pretty good now...indicating that the steel is good. I have used them to cut outsole channels...pulling...but ordinarily, I push with them.
post #3662 of 4059
They've got some fancy ideas over on the mainland, I tend to avoid knives and glass plates near my chest wherever possible.

This is a useful skiver, an old Barnsley. Photo is of the bevel side, so push it with the other side up to avoid cutting in too deep.



In conjunction with one of those wooden handled "shoemakers knives", with a concave profile from repeated sharpening. My favourite one of those died not so long ago, gradually working on another.

Generally pull the knife when skiving upper leather though.
post #3663 of 4059
Interesting. Are you skiving on glass or marble...or something else?

I push skive through upper leather, as well. I have a domed piece of glass that I skive on and combined with a slightly hollow ground knife (as shown below), I have a tremendous amount of control, simply because when two convex surfaces meet, the area of contact is limited to very nearly a point. And as an added benefit, the "crumbs" or parings fall down the sides of the dome and out of the work area.

In the photo below one knife is a Berg and the other is a Tina.



(It might be worth clicking on the photo and then selecting "original" for a closer look.)
post #3664 of 4059
Skive on marble here, or some sort of kitchen worktop approximate. (In amongst some inherited furniture, my wife had a marble topped commode which we auctioned off a couple of years ago due to lack of space - boy do I wish I had that now, would have been the perfect skiving station).

That domed glass idea sounds pretty cute, I'll have to keep an eye out for something suitable when I troll the auction house next.
post #3665 of 4059
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighToned View Post


Nutcracker, I wasn't arguing on Japanese vs French craft. I know that Japanese as a lot of beautiful craftsmanship.
I'm aware of the oldest companies are 53 % Japanese companies. Be careful, old companies doesn't mean "craftsmanship", first place is Hotel, Machinery Company, Religious Goods ... ; )
Japanese companies are also very old because of the flexibility created by Japanese law to adopt an apprentice as your son.


I was saying at Chogall that French didn't copy the Japanese for the best crafts preservation. For me they are very different approach in Europe compare to Japan. 

Cool, sorry for the mixup.

If you're looking at the same data I"m looking at above, then 1744 out of the 3113 centenial businesses in Japan are Sake distillers and vendors, 759 Wooden constructors, 569 kimono manufacters.
541 Hotels / inns, and 674 landlord/rentors.

Anyway, not much to do about shoemaking, sorry.
post #3666 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Skive on marble here, or some sort of kitchen worktop approximate. (In amongst some inherited furniture, my wife had a marble topped commode which we auctioned off a couple of years ago due to lack of space - boy do I wish I had that now, would have been the perfect skiving station).

That domed glass idea sounds pretty cute, I'll have to keep an eye out for something suitable when I troll the auction house next.

Actually they're not easy to find. My teacher had an "old fashioned" television screen. It was domed. I could never find one. Then I ran across a 1951 Chevy truck side corner window. Which was more like a cylinder cut in half. [In fact, I've had common glass jars cut in half lengthwise but people who will do that are very rare. The claim is that common glass jars shatter when this is attempted.]

I've been teaching for so long people tell me that those are getting hard to find as well..because my students are buying them up.

So then...because I was teaching...I had to come up with something else--namely an old glass one gallon cider jug dropped into a rectangular hole in the bench such that the cider jug is cradled with only half of its length showing.

Same principle...just in case you wanted to try it. And FWIW.

PS...and not to get too far in the weeds...I use that same glass "dome' and the same technique with the Japaneses shoemakers knife.

--
post #3667 of 4059
Kind of like a glass carboy/demijohn? Better get the homebrew kit out from the shed!
post #3668 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Kind of like a glass carboy/demijohn? Better get the homebrew kit out from the shed!

Why in the world is it in the shed in the first place??!! biggrin.gif

I'm not sure what you're referring to but something like this is what I use (one gallon):

post #3669 of 4059
Heh, I had this misguided notion that I could pick up some brewing in and around shoemaking when I started up on my own. Still waiting for these quiet days I had in mind.

That's the exact thing I was thinking, glass carboy for fermentation.
post #3670 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

Heh, I had this misguided notion that I could pick up some brewing in and around shoemaking when I started up on my own. Still waiting for these quiet days I had in mind.

That's the exact thing I was thinking, glass carboy for fermentation.

I wouldn't call it misguided. I did the same thing early on in my career. Made some good stuff...very scientific...Best Bitters. Stout, Amber ale. But I lost all my bottles when I tried to make Ginger ale. Probably too much residual sugar. Set them in the crawl space under the house for a while (it's cool and dark) and about three weeks later they started going off like bullets in a fire.

We didn't dare even check under there until about six months later.
post #3671 of 4059
I generally pull skive. I do it with the bevel up, not down. With something heavy like a toe puff, I will do a combination of pulling and pushing on a marble tile.

Based on DW's Chevy window idea, I use a bell jar when skiving light leather, which has a good curve and also fits in my lap.

http://www.target.com/p/anchor-heritage-glass-jar-1-gallon/-/A-15295209#prodSlot=medium_1_17&term=glass+jar
post #3672 of 4059
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighToned View Post
 

 

MOF is an awards, it's a significant achievement in a life.  It's the equivalent of Japanese National Living Treasure (人間国宝).

Big difference : 

You don't even need to be French to wear the French collar on your outfit. Three years ago, a Japanese man won MOF on leather work for Hermès, he is now working for Moynat.

 

Btw, Meilleur Ouvrier de France was created in 1924, and Japanese National Living Treasure created in 1950.

 

 

Nutcracker, I wasn't arguing on Japanese vs French craft. I know that Japanese as a lot of beautiful craftsmanship.

I'm aware of the oldest companies are 53 % Japanese companies. Be careful, old companies doesn't mean "craftsmanship", first place is Hotel, Machinery Company, Religious Goods ... ; )

Japanese companies are also very old because of the flexibility created by Japanese law to adopt an apprentice as your son.

 

 

I was saying at Chogall that French didn't copy the Japanese for the best crafts preservation. For me they are very different approach in Europe compare to Japan. 

 

Thank you for the correction!!

post #3673 of 4059
Haha I knew there was a reason I kept hold of this empty bottle! (And not just because it was a leaving gift)

post #3674 of 4059
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Edited by nutcracker - 3/5/16 at 5:17am
post #3675 of 4059
If this wasn't such a serviceable mantle clock I could press the domed glass window into action.



See these quite often at the auction house.

Growing up on a boat, I'm pretty familiar with those domed portholes that are common in some boat types - they look a decent size for skiving on too.
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