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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 237

post #3541 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by manasdirge View Post
 

 

 

 

Thanks for the kind and informative replies gentlemen:happy:! will search with the key words you have provided and see what I can get!

 

And check back in this thread! Nutcracker has given a lot of superb info on many, many brands during the years.

post #3542 of 4066
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by manasdirge View Post

Hi all, I am wondering if there is a Japan brand that offers smaller sizes (I wear UK5/5.5) on lasts based on asian foot (have narrow heel and relatively low instep here)? prefer RTW shoes available online.

I have found one brand "ファクトリーの一つ 宮城興業" (giardino) on yahoo but I don't know anything about their quality/fit, anyone has a clue?

http://page19.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/x418858366?u=%3bgiardino_da_1941

Thanks in advance.

Hi there,

I've tried the high end MIYAGI KOGYO before. Initially inspired by Edward Green, they now have many American style shoes too. Fitting is unique (neither UK or US), and some of their lasts have curved, banana-esque lasts that seem to optimise fitting for Asian feet. Has a small heel cup, and accommodated my flat-feet very well (generous space / cup in the quarter area, reminded me of the Modified Last shoes). In this past year or two, they expanded their selection to include a full range of styles.

MK RTW shoes are great shoes for the price $500 USD or so? Solid making, clean sole. However, leather is Japanese kip, and looked and felt sub-par from high end shoes that I have handled such as Edward Green. May not be a fair comparison though.

CENTRAL shoes, sold alongside MIYAGI KOGYO, is also an equally good choice. A well-known shoe factory brand, and they make shoes for Sanyo Yamacho, Trading Post, Rendo, among others. Cost about 10K JPY more than Miyagi Kogyo, but apparently they use Euro calfs (Annonay and what not).

JOE WORKS: Heard great things about from fellow shoemakers such as Takano san. A brand new business, JW is a group of industry veterans who operate a tiny, but a fully equipped factory (with good year welted machine) in Asakusa. MTO shoes go for 70, 80K? They also make shoes for Clematis RTW range, which is also quite nice.

Other Japanese shoe industry members that I chatted claim that GENTRY COMPLEX makes hands down the best RTW/MTO shoes for the money in Japan. Starting about 65K JPY, they are hand sewn welted. High grade leathers such as vintage Freudenbergs are also available. Made in Fukuoka, Japan. Its a small operation of well trained shoemakers, done on the side of a mainly suits/apparel store, so they can keep the price down.

Check it out
http://www.renn.co.jp/shoes.htm

CORNO BLU RTW shoes seem to be popping up here and there online and elsewhere. A brainchild of bespoke maker Seigaku san, the RTW line is, in my opinion, not as well executed after they switched to the Taiwanese OEM KAMIOKA, and made in LAOS. Used to be made by CENTRAL.
post #3543 of 4066
No familiarity with fit or quality, but from aesthetics alone, JOE WORKS is incredible. I routinely find myself clicking on shoes I fancy while cruising instagram, and they're routinely JOE WORKS.
post #3544 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Hi there,

I've tried the high end MIYAGI KOGYO before. Initially inspired by Edward Green, they now have many American style shoes too. Fitting is unique (neither UK or US), and some of their lasts have curved, banana-esque lasts that seem to optimise fitting for Asian feet. Has a small heel cup, and accommodated my flat-feet very well (generous space / cup in the quarter area, reminded me of the Modified Last shoes). In this past year or two, they expanded their selection to include a full range of styles.

MK RTW shoes are great shoes for the price $500 USD or so? Solid making, clean sole. However, leather is Japanese kip, and looked and felt sub-par from high end shoes that I have handled such as Edward Green. May not be a fair comparison though.

CENTRAL shoes, sold alongside MIYAGI KOGYO, is also an equally good choice. A well-known shoe factory brand, and they make shoes for Sanyo Yamacho, Trading Post, Rendo, among others. Cost about 10K JPY more than Miyagi Kogyo, but apparently they use Euro calfs (Annonay and what not).

JOE WORKS: Heard great things about from fellow shoemakers such as Takano san. A brand new business, JW is a group of industry veterans who operate a tiny, but a fully equipped factory (with good year welted machine) in Asakusa. MTO shoes go for 70, 80K? They also make shoes for Clematis RTW range, which is also quite nice.

Other Japanese shoe industry members that I chatted claim that GENTRY COMPLEX makes hands down the best RTW/MTO shoes for the money in Japan. Starting about 65K JPY, they are hand sewn welted. High grade leathers such as vintage Freudenbergs are also available. Made in Fukuoka, Japan. Its a small operation of well trained shoemakers, done on the side of a mainly suits/apparel store, so they can keep the price down.

Check it out
http://www.renn.co.jp/shoes.htm

CORNO BLU RTW shoes seem to be popping up here and there online and elsewhere. A brainchild of bespoke maker Seigaku san, the RTW line is, in my opinion, not as well executed after they switched to the Taiwanese OEM KAMIOKA, and made in LAOS. Used to be made by CENTRAL.

 

Yeah saw Keitaro's shoes from Joe Works, and those looked really nice. Gentry Complex sounds and looks very interesting, do they have a retailer in Tokyo?

post #3545 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Hi there,

I've tried the high end MIYAGI KOGYO before. Initially inspired by Edward Green, they now have many American style shoes too. Fitting is unique (neither UK or US), and some of their lasts have curved, banana-esque lasts that seem to optimise fitting for Asian feet. Has a small heel cup, and accommodated my flat-feet very well (generous space / cup in the quarter area, reminded me of the Modified Last shoes). In this past year or two, they expanded their selection to include a full range of styles.

MK RTW shoes are great shoes for the price $500 USD or so? Solid making, clean sole. However, leather is Japanese kip, and looked and felt sub-par from high end shoes that I have handled such as Edward Green. May not be a fair comparison though.

CENTRAL shoes, sold alongside MIYAGI KOGYO, is also an equally good choice. A well-known shoe factory brand, and they make shoes for Sanyo Yamacho, Trading Post, Rendo, among others. Cost about 10K JPY more than Miyagi Kogyo, but apparently they use Euro calfs (Annonay and what not).

JOE WORKS: Heard great things about from fellow shoemakers such as Takano san. A brand new business, JW is a group of industry veterans who operate a tiny, but a fully equipped factory (with good year welted machine) in Asakusa. MTO shoes go for 70, 80K? They also make shoes for Clematis RTW range, which is also quite nice.

Other Japanese shoe industry members that I chatted claim that GENTRY COMPLEX makes hands down the best RTW/MTO shoes for the money in Japan. Starting about 65K JPY, they are hand sewn welted. High grade leathers such as vintage Freudenbergs are also available. Made in Fukuoka, Japan. Its a small operation of well trained shoemakers, done on the side of a mainly suits/apparel store, so they can keep the price down.

Check it out
http://www.renn.co.jp/shoes.htm

CORNO BLU RTW shoes seem to be popping up here and there online and elsewhere. A brainchild of bespoke maker Seigaku san, the RTW line is, in my opinion, not as well executed after they switched to the Taiwanese OEM KAMIOKA, and made in LAOS. Used to be made by CENTRAL.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by usctrojans31 View Post

No familiarity with fit or quality, but from aesthetics alone, JOE WORKS is incredible. I routinely find myself clicking on shoes I fancy while cruising instagram, and they're routinely JOE WORKS.

Thanks for the replies gentlemen, 

nutcracker, I have looked at the pictures of Gentry Complex, quite nice shoes for the price, plus hand welted construction, However I can't find a way to order or to contact the makers. I have send an email to the shop link on the gentry complex page: http://my-shop.jp/cadetto/. I'll see if this can work out.

 

As for Joe Works, can't find anything by searching "joe works", any clues?

post #3546 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by manasdirge View Post
 

 

Thanks for the replies gentlemen, 

nutcracker, I have looked at the pictures of Gentry Complex, quite nice shoes for the price, plus hand welted construction, However I can't find a way to order or to contact the makers. I have send an email to the shop link on the gentry complex page: http://my-shop.jp/cadetto/. I'll see if this can work out.

 

As for Joe Works, can't find anything by searching "joe works", any clues?

 

Here's Joe Works' Instagram.

 

In this blog post you see some pics I took of Clematis RTW-range made by Joe Works.

post #3547 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Here's Joe Works' Instagram.

In this blog post you see some pics I took of Clematis RTW-range made by Joe Works.

Very interesting, a great article, thanks for this.
post #3548 of 4066
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Yeah saw Keitaro's shoes from Joe Works, and those looked really nice. Gentry Complex sounds and looks very interesting, do they have a retailer in Tokyo?

I don"t think GENTRY COMPLEX shoes are offered in Tokyo, and to my knowledge the shoemakers who make the GC don't do works for other stores either.

Priced at $65K, I"m told that they look uncannily similar to Edward Green in style / last, but in construction and finish, equal or even better (hand sewn welted, of course)

and with an extra 64K JPY (or double the price), they can make a custom last for you (with full measurements and also a trial/fitting session). Subsequent pairs are back to 65K JPY

Really tempted to try out one myself just out of curiosity!!
post #3549 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


I don"t think GENTRY COMPLEX shoes are offered in Tokyo, and to my knowledge the shoemakers who make the GC don't do works for other stores either.

Priced at $65K, I"m told that they look uncannily similar to Edward Green in style / last, but in construction and finish, equal or even better (hand sewn welted, of course)

and with an extra 64K JPY (or double the price), they can make a custom last for you (with full measurements and also a trial/fitting session). Subsequent pairs are back to 65K JPY

Really tempted to try out one myself just out of curiosity!!


Tempting. I'm in Fukuoka many times a year :D
Difficult to get a good image of the shoes, but the machine stitched soles looked a bit messy in my opinion. I've seen this on various japanese brands, and I keep wondering why they can't make them look as nice as the decent+ european brands.

post #3550 of 4066
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post


Tempting. I'm in Fukuoka many times a year biggrin.gif

Difficult to get a good image of the shoes, but the machine stitched soles looked a bit messy in my opinion. I've seen this on various japanese brands, and I keep wondering why they can't make them look as nice as the decent+ european brands.

You mean the closed channeled sole?
post #3551 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


You mean the closed channeled sole?


No, that is fine and all, but I'm thinking of the top of the welt where the sole is stitched to the welt. It seems like they use something to imitate the fudge wheel, but doesn't get used on the actual stitching. Or maybe the length of each stitch is longer? In any case, it looks a bit off to me.

 

 

 

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 90


Not the easiest in the world to see, but there most certainly is a difference.

post #3552 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaves View Post


Very interesting, a great article, thanks for this.

 

Thanks Patrik!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post
 


No, that is fine and all, but I'm thinking of the top of the welt where the sole is stitched to the welt. It seems like they use something to imitate the fudge wheel, but doesn't get used on the actual stitching. Or maybe the length of each stitch is longer? In any case, it looks a bit off to me.

 

 

 

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 90


Not the easiest in the world to see, but there most certainly is a difference.

 

I don't think that there is such a big difference between the Japanese and European RTW-market really. Basically most welts look kinda lousy, it's mainly when you come up a bit in the price range that it start looking good, if you generalise a bit, like G&G's and Edward Green's above. Same in Japan as I experienced it, but maybe with the change that some shoes felt better in many regards except of upper welt finishing, which might lead to your experience Stefan. But when you looked at the price I could never feel that I could expect more (at least not if you compare to the European brands) even in this regard.

 

A couple of examples of Japanese brands that does it quite well IMO, first Miagi Kogyo (not the best pics to see it, I know, but best I had):

 

 

 

And here's Clematis by Joe Works:

 

 

And here Otsuka M-5 from their website:

 

 

Considering both Miagi Kogyo and Otsuka are priced below €450, and Clematis at €600, they are quite nice.

post #3553 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Thanks Patrik!


I don't think that there is such a big difference between the Japanese and European RTW-market really. Basically most welts look kinda lousy, it's mainly when you come up a bit in the price range that it start looking good, if you generalise a bit, like G&G's and Edward Green's above. Same in Japan as I experienced it, but maybe with the change that some shoes felt better in many regards except of upper welt finishing, which might lead to your experience Stefan. But when you looked at the price I could never feel that I could expect more (at least not if you compare to the European brands) even in this regard.

A couple of examples of Japanese brands that does it quite well IMO, first Miagi Kogyo (not the best pics to see it, I know, but best I had):





And here's Clematis by Joe Works:




And here Otsuka M-5 from their website:




Considering both Miagi Kogyo and Otsuka are priced below €450, and Clematis at €600, they are quite nice.
Those do indeed look nice, but the gentry complex and also others I've seen, really looks hideous. Comparing to same price range shoes, my Sargents and old bench grade C&J look cleaner.
It's sad, because some of the models and the leathers look really good otherwise.
Edited by Stefan88 - 12/11/15 at 3:50pm
post #3554 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post


Those do indeed look nice, but the gentry complex and also others I've seen, really looks hideous. Comparing to same price range shoes, my Sargents and old bench grade C&J look cleaner.
It's sad, because some of the models and the leathers look really good otherwise.

 

I can't see anything on the pics on Gentry Complex website, the picture quality is to bad, so can't say how I think those look. Nonetheless both Sargent and C&J BG are like €100 more expensive, but sure the price range is similar.

post #3555 of 4066
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

I can't see anything on the pics on Gentry Complex website, the picture quality is to bad, so can't say how I think those look. Nonetheless both Sargent and C&J BG are like €100 more expensive, but sure the price range is similar.
Have a look at the pics I uploaded above. Top 3 are from there. It's just a deal breaker.
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