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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 203

post #3031 of 3043
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post



There is always Jun Kuwana - King Croesus of the bespoke shoe world.

http://homepage2.nifty.com/cobblers-web/


Apart from one pair by Koji Suzuki, Kuwana hasn't had any commissions from Japanese shoemakers. Most of his bespoke shoes come from Cleverley and Fosters. He presents them with many detailed photographs and English descriptions.

There is also a blog where he talks about shoes and fashion in general. The blog is Japanese only, but if you access it through Google Chrome you will get a pretty serviceable translation thrown in. (Computer translations, although not perfect, have greatly improved, from the absolute gobbledegook of ten or so years ago.)

 

That's an excellent page! Hadn't heard about it before.

post #3032 of 3043

Spigola Trunk Show at The Armoury Hong Kong
December 5-6, 2014
http://thearmoury.com/en/events/hkg-japanese-shoemaker-koji-suzuki
https://www.facebook.com/thearmouryhk
Photos from http://gothamred.tumblr.com/

 

 

 

post #3033 of 3043

Spigola Trunk Show at Sarto Sapporo
December 13-14, 2014

http://www.sarto.jp/mens/2014/12/02/000922.php​

 

post #3034 of 3043

Man, how many inhouse or outsourced apprentices/makers does Suzuki have?  With the number of trunk shoes he's doing overseas it seems like there's barely any tie left for him to make shoes...

post #3035 of 3043
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Man, how many inhouse or outsourced apprentices/makers does Suzuki have?  With the number of trunk shoes he's doing overseas it seems like there's barely any tie left for him to make shoes...

Three in-house workers, if I recall things correctly. BM or Nutcracker can probably confirm or correct.
post #3036 of 3043
Thread Starter 
Spotted this beauty at my recent trip to Marquess accompanying a friend.

Bespoke Side Elastics in Patent Leather






Well this vintage patent leather is supposed to be something, it really looked like a well polished calfskin. wow.gif


On a side note, I was invited to join a dinner with 5 other Marquess aficionados that night (yes they all had Marquess on their feet....scary) Felt like an initiation to the club smile.gif
post #3037 of 3043
Nutcracker, is this interesting vintage patent leather corrected with a thin layer of plastic like most modern versions? Back before plastics I trust most patent hides were really wax calf polished to a mirror-like state by some poor servant.
post #3038 of 3043
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Nutcracker, is this interesting vintage patent leather corrected with a thin layer of plastic like most modern versions? Back before plastics I trust most patent hides were really wax calf polished to a mirror-like state by some poor servant.

Not so.

It was lacquered with a linseed oil based compound. It was invented in Belgium in the last quarter of the 18th century.
post #3039 of 3043
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Not so.

It was lacquered with a linseed oil based compound. It was invented in Belgium in the last quarter of the 18th century.

 

Can it still be acquired or no?

post #3040 of 3043
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

Can it still be acquired or no?

To be honest, I really don't know, but I suspect not--it's too easy and too cheap to simply roll and heat bond a film of plastic to marginal or blemished leather.
post #3041 of 3043
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Nutcracker, is this interesting vintage patent leather corrected with a thin layer of plastic like most modern versions? Back before plastics I trust most patent hides were really wax calf polished to a mirror-like state by some poor servant.

His supplier told him that, unlike typical patent leather, this old patent leather needs to be maintained like regular leather with creams and what not.
post #3042 of 3043
These are stunning!
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post

I don't have another photo.
Perhaps,seamless heel as below.

post #3043 of 3043

The Portrait of Koji Suzuki a.k.a. SPIGOLA

Photos from Coccinella

http://www.coccinella-jp.com/

http://cc-coccinella.tumblr.com/
http://instagram.com/cc.coccinella/

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