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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 190

post #2836 of 3234
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

Guys, please remember that this is a thread about Japanese bespoke shoemaking.......

Let's keep it Japanese. Fudge wheeled work at it's finest: Marquess Shoji Kawaguchi




Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Fudge wheel are an expedient for people who can't learn to use or don't have the patience to use a stitch prick.

Nice opinions you have of your colleagues.......so modest, so balanced! biggrin.gif
post #2837 of 3234
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Nice opinions you have of your colleagues.......so modest, so balanced! biggrin.gif

I was speaking about you...I can't figure out why someone who, by his own admission, has never had a stitch prick or a fudge wheel in his hand. Who has never holed an insole or made handwax,. etc., etc. etc., feels compelled to personally criticize someone who has. But along with the white gloves and tails, it's an MO, isn't it?

Your comments about English work or even fudge work aren't exactly balanced either. And, more importantly, since you've never done any of the physical work, yourself...probably as immodest as it gets.

Looking back, my observations about fudge wheels in general, esp. in comparison to stitch pricks, probably weren't balanced. And I apologize to others in this thread and to any Japanese maker who may have been offended, for that.

However, my comments/observations were about technique and the differences in results...they weren't aimed at anyone in particular--as your comments were. I won't apologize for defending myself.

--
Edited by DWFII - 8/20/14 at 9:18am
post #2838 of 3234
Thread Starter 
For those who haven`t seen yet, YOHEI FUKUDA, still arguably the hottest bespoke maker in Japan, has an excellent Facebook page with lots of pictures. Written entirely in English. A must see!



FB Link

and Mr. Cho from TheArmoury did a few posts documenting his trial fitting session with Fukuda san.

instagram link
post #2839 of 3234

Mr Fukuda's shoes all appears to be very delicate!

post #2840 of 3234
I was browsing Tye Shoemaker's blog today and my wife instantly fell in love with this pair below.

While my original intent was to make a bespoke pair for myself coming October (shoemaker not yet decided they're all brilliant) now I really want to get her this pair instead, for her birthday. Now if only we can synchronize our travel plans...



post #2841 of 3234
Thread Starter 
Il Quadrifoglio raises his game!

Single Strap Monk
Espresso calf and lizard w/ original buckles






Edited by nutcracker - 8/23/14 at 5:52pm
post #2842 of 3234
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Il Quadrifoglio raises his game!

Single Strap Monk
Espresso calf and lizard w/ original buckles


Love the original buckles. Very unique and classy!!!
post #2843 of 3234
Thread Starter 
Hiro Yanagimachi Interview on Claymoor`s List!!

post #2844 of 3234
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Hiro Yanagimachi Interview on Claymoor`s List!! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Visited his workshop 2 weeks ago, and it looked amazing. Really nice guy too!

post #2845 of 3234
Thread Starter 
Sorry too cool to pass up

TYE SHOEMAKER Bespoke Button Up Boots



TYE Shoemaker FB
post #2846 of 3234
Kinky...in a classic, timeless, and artisanal way.

Or perhaps I've been ruined by certain films I've seen in my younger years, and I fail to see the charm.
post #2847 of 3234
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Sorry too cool to pass up

TYE SHOEMAKER Bespoke Button Up Boots



TYE Shoemaker FB

Awesome! I really like his work on female shoes. His work on male shoes however, is just too feminine for my taste. Amazing craftmanship nonetheless...
post #2848 of 3234
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Sorry too cool to pass up

TYE SHOEMAKER Bespoke Button Up Boots



TYE Shoemaker FB

If those are anything like the bal button boots I tried at aubercy they will take an hour to get on (with button hook). Still, TYE is the maker that impressed me the most based on the pics posted here.
post #2849 of 3234
Quote:
Originally Posted by p.henrik View Post

If those are anything like the bal button boots I tried at aubercy they will take an hour to get on (with button hook).

It appears, apart from the two buckles at the top, all the other closings are "Sam Browne" (or button) studs with a corresponding "buttonhole" punched into the leather.




http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/button-stud-11310-007.aspx

No need for button hooks, although the services of a maid would definitely come in handy. smile.gif
post #2850 of 3234
It would be interesting if that were true. I don't think the photo is clear enough or large enough to determine for sure. I have to wonder at the dark patch in the middle of each "button." If it's thread, or the end of a "hidden" wire loop (like most vintage shoe buttons have), then it's not a Sam Browne. It could be a reflection, of course but, if so it seems to be a reflection that defies light as it remains in the center of the "button" no matter where on the boot it is.

Additionally, it seems the maker has sewn along the edge of the buttonhole. If the button hole were punched, there would be a circular line of stitching around the button itself. I don't see that.

One problem with the Sam Browne stud...particularly in this kind of application...is that it is mounted on a rigid post. I suspect, if those are indeed Sam Browne studs, the boots would be uncomfortable, digging into the ankle and instep as the boot/foot is flexed. Shoe buttons have a wire loop so that they will move and twist and turn with the movement of the shoe.

--
Edited by DWFII - 9/2/14 at 6:38am
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