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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 177

post #2641 of 3025
Quote:
Originally Posted by nmoraitis View Post
 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I didn’t want to post anything until I finally finished reading this entire thread (over 3 weeks!). While in Japan, I bought the newest issue of Last (vol. 6) magazine. Previous to buying it, I gave zero consideration to buying any shoes in Japan, remembering from my last visit how much more expensive shoes were here. I was really impressed by all the brands, but especially by the bespoke makers. The two that I instantly fell in love with were Marquess and Fukuda. It’s been a couple of years since I visited SF, but I thought to do a search because if one place had info on these guys, it was here. Little did I realize what an amazing thread I would find, definitely one of the greatest. It really reminds of when I first joined SF.

I had only read the first seven pages of the thread, when I knew I wanted to visit Marquess and I wanted one shoe in particular; the chisel. I sent an email to Shoji and he responded a couple days later (he was on vacation) that we could meet on his return to work, which was May 13. In the meantime, I visited several other stores such as WFG, Isetan, Trading Post, among others. I went to GofC, but it was closed as it was a Tuesday on my visit.

At Isetan they had several pairs of Fukuda’s MTO (apparently made in the exact same method as his bespoke). I know a lot of people here described them as drop dead gorgeous, but in reality, they were DROP…….DEAD…….GORGEOUS! I couldn’t get over how amazing these shoes really were to see in person, everything from the shape of the last and waist to the quality of the leather and the antiquing, they were truly out of this world. Having visited Cleverly for the first time back in February, I feel comfortable enough to say that the quality here was definitely superior. Disclaimer; I did not commission any bespoke at Cleverly, I only examined their samples and bought a pair of AC’s. So my comment above is obviously only based on the quality of the finishing, not on fit. At Isetan, they also had in a glass case a couple of old bespoke samples made by the great Anthony Cleverly himself. They were his chiseled toe design and looked amazing.

Finally the 13th rolled around and I made my way to the Kawaguchi’s home/shop, which is located in a residential area and thanks to Google maps, it was easy to find. I know a lot has been written here about how nice both Yuriko and Shoji are, but I must reiterate it. They oozed kindness and friendliness and even brought out some nice chilled tea for us to drink (my wife and brother also came along). We chatted for a little bit about how I came to hear about Marquess (Last, SF), where I was from (Canada) and about several other things that were not related to shoes. It was a very relaxed atmosphere, but then it was time to get down to business. It was time to see the shoes and I gotta say, they were AMAZING! Pictures rrrreeeeaaaaalllllyyyyy don’t do these shoes justice. They are perfect. And by perfect, I mean the finishing was perfect, the stiching/welt was perfect, the leather used was perfect, the balance/last was perfect, the waist treatment was perfect. For me though, of all their shoes, the chisel was the greatest. This sucker is just really gut wrenching to see in person (the good kind of gut wrenching!). I can’t even explain what makes them so great, they just are.

This being my first bespoke experience, I obviously cannot compare it to anything, but when it came time to measure my foot, Shoji was very meticulous. All in all, it took about 45minutes to an hour until he was satisfied. At one point, Shoji asked me to remove my socks so that he could do a visual inspection of my feet. I am not sure if this is always done by other shoe makers, but I thought it was interesting.
In the end, I decided on a blind brogue with a beveled waist. It’s the same shoe design as the chiseled sample, but I chose it in a colour called Antique Ocher.

I asked where some of his customers were from and he told me that almost all are from Asia (Japan to be specific) and that one was from Scandinavia, another from England and another from somewhere else which I don’t recall. I realized after reading this entire thread, that those he listed were most likely the SF members who posted in this thread. I am not sure how exhaustive his list was, but I am his first Canadian customer, and likely his first North American client.

They will send in October my sample shoes, which I will wear for a month or two before I visit them in January. So, I will keep everyone posted on how it all turns out. After almost two hours, we bid them farewell and I look forward to seeing them again.

A very big thanks to Nutcracker and BespokeMakers and really to everyone that has contributed to this thread, keep up the good work. Having read the entire thread, I feel very confident about how the final product will turn out, but I guess in the end, only time will tell. If you consider yourself a shoe aficionado, but have never been to Japan to check out their offerings, you really are doing yourself a huge disservice. You can’t say that you have seen it all, shoe wise anyway, until you visit Japan.

I have attached a photo below. I didn’t ask, but I may be Marquess’ first client to ever arrive for an appointment in a t-shirt and shorts! Heck, I wasn’t even wearing socks that day because I was wearing moc’s, so I had to borrow my brothers. It was humid, so I didn’t feel like wearing a sport coat and trousers. smile.gif

photo IMG_20140513_190402_zps98effd73.jpg

 

I'm the Scandinavian :D

Waiting for my trial pair to arrive sometime in June. Going for my next fitting in the middle of August. The chisel looks great yes.
I went with Marquess round for the first pair, but might try Marquess square for the inevitable second.

post #2642 of 3025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuro View Post

thumbs-up.gif

I don't understand why this isn't standard practice for bespoke shoemakers...

Do none of the European makers create a trial shoe to take home?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Fantastic!! A big congrats to your bespoke endeavour with Marquess. A pair of blind brogues in their chiseled last will be gorgeous. I also love their ocher calf, and how they finish it so immaculately.

Thank you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I'm the Scandinavian biggrin.gif


Waiting for my trial pair to arrive sometime in June. Going for my next fitting in the middle of August. The chisel looks great yes.

I went with Marquess round for the first pair, but might try Marquess square for the inevitable second.

I hope you will share your impressions when the trial shoes arrive!

Both the Marquess round and the square are beautiful.
post #2643 of 3025
I only know bestetti gives you trial shoes to take home. The bigger shops like JLSJ, JLP, Berluti, and the UK firms either don't do trial shoes or uses semi finished shoes for trial. Not until recently did G&G make trial shoes.

But they do remake finished shoes if something is to be improved.
post #2644 of 3025
Quote:
Originally Posted by nmoraitis View Post


photo IMG_20140513_190402_zps98effd73.jpg
firstly
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
yay
to you and
bengal and
stefan88 for
being fortunate
enough to try
Marquess
truely a
spectacular
and gifted
shoemaker

Quote:
Originally Posted by nmoraitis View Post

Do none of the European makers create a trial shoe to take home?
berluti used to
about 15 yrs or so
ago, when you take
it home and wear it
and bring it back to
them to examine

meccariello also does
for his bespoke
and as a service for
his aurum
Quote:
Originally Posted by yymd View Post


......... (Also, not sure how it is with other bespoke makers, but Antonio's test shoes are for the customer to keep)


AppleMark


AppleMark

also:
sauce: blog

tumblr_n5damtTNtq1rmf81eo2_1280.jpg
post #2645 of 3025
Looks good ^
post #2646 of 3025
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

I only know bestetti gives you trial shoes to take home. The bigger shops like JLSJ, JLP, Berluti, and the UK firms either don't do trial shoes or uses semi finished shoes for trial. Not until recently did G&G make trial shoes.

But they do remake finished shoes if something is to be improved.

That's interesting to known, thanks. I imagine that there is much information to glean from a test shoe, so I wonder why more don't do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

firstly
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/
yay
to you and
bengal and
stefan88 for
being fortunate
enough to try
Marquess
truely a
spectacular
and gifted
shoemaker
berluti used to
about 15 yrs or so
ago, when you take
it home and wear it
and bring it back to
them to examine

meccariello also does
for his bespoke
and as a service for
his aurum
also:
sauce: blog

tumblr_n5damtTNtq1rmf81eo2_1280.jpg

Thanks, I'm really looking forward to my completed pair! Many thanks too for the link posted above.
post #2647 of 3025
Thread Starter 
TYE Shoemaker Bespoke Samples

To the joy of his fans (myself included), Ohno san (TYE Shoemaker) has finally made some bespoke sample shoes for everyone to see! (all other shoes featured here or on his website are commissioned shoes)

Here is a stunner: Single monk in cognac calf and a 18K WG original buckle








TYE Shoemaker Diary
post #2648 of 3025

This might be one of the most elegant monks I've ever seen.

post #2649 of 3025
One consistency I've seen across almost all Japanese shoes is that they're all clinically clean & perfect. I could not find any quality faults whatsoever, even in my mid entry Sanyo Yamacho MTO.
post #2650 of 3025
@nutcracker:
Do you know which shoemaker has Made To Measure program? The kind that allows you to modify existing last for fit & comfort?

So far I know 2: Guild of Craft and Hiro Yanagimachi (most friendly Japanese site I've seen thus far.) Any others? Am planning to set up appointment for sometime in October or so...

Sorry if I have missed this in one of the posts.

Appreciate it - thanks!
post #2651 of 3025
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

TYE Shoemaker Bespoke Samples

To the joy of his fans (myself included), Ohno san (TYE Shoemaker) has finally made some bespoke sample shoes for everyone to see! (all other shoes featured here or on his website are commissioned shoes)

Here is a stunner: Single monk in cognac calf and a 18K WG original buckle








TYE Shoemaker Diary

Beautiful shoes...beautiful model and beautiful color.

post #2652 of 3025
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by agedashidofu View Post

@nutcracker:
Do you know which shoemaker has Made To Measure program? The kind that allows you to modify existing last for fit & comfort?

So far I know 2: Guild of Craft and Hiro Yanagimachi (most friendly Japanese site I've seen thus far.) Any others? Am planning to set up appointment for sometime in October or so...

Sorry if I have missed this in one of the posts.

Appreciate it - thanks!

OK, I assume you`re coming to Tokyo. If so, Otsuka, o.e., Yoshinoya, Regal, Ogasawara Shoes, Clematis and Yohei Fukuda are the better known bespoke makers that also offer MTM shoes that requires no extra fitting session, and also allows lasts to be modified. (aside Yanagimachi and Guild of Crafts)

Otsuka is probably the best deal (at around ¥157K for full handmade MTO)
Clematis (¥163K~ for machine bottomed, and ¥253K for full handmade), is located in Ginza (like Guild). A lot of designs to choose (and modifiable), should definitely take a look.
Yohei Fukuda`s MTO starts from ¥273K yen, same impeccable shoes as his bespokes, but only oxford designs to choose from.
post #2653 of 3025
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

OK, I assume you`re coming to Tokyo. If so, Otsuka, o.e., Yoshinoya, Regal, Ogasawara Shoes, Clematis and Yohei Fukuda are the better known bespoke makers that also offer MTM shoes that requires no extra fitting session, and also allows lasts to be modified. (aside Yanagimachi and Guild of Crafts)

Otsuka is probably the best deal (at around ¥157K for full handmade MTO)
Clematis (¥163K~ for machine bottomed, and ¥253K for full handmade), is located in Ginza (like Guild). A lot of designs to choose (and modifiable), should definitely take a look.
Yohei Fukuda`s MTO starts from ¥273K yen, same impeccable shoes as his bespokes, but only oxford designs to choose from.

Nutcracker,

Thanks a lot for the info!!! Yes, I'm coming to Tokyo in October, December, and basically every other month after that. My rationale for MTM is more to do with pricing, as bespoke pricing is quite steep, and most of the time, I'm already very pleased with the comfort and fit provided with MTM (at least with GG deco.)

I have to say that my favorite so far is Marquess and Yohei Fukuda. It's very unfortunate that Marquess does not provide MTM service. I'm now considering between HY and YF.

If your schedule allows, wouldn't it be a great idea to meet in Tokyo? Will have to see the schedule for these guys first though.

Thanks again!
post #2654 of 3025
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by agedashidofu View Post

Nutcracker,

Thanks a lot for the info!!! Yes, I'm coming to Tokyo in October, December, and basically every other month after that. My rationale for MTM is more to do with pricing, as bespoke pricing is quite steep, and most of the time, I'm already very pleased with the comfort and fit provided with MTM (at least with GG deco.)

I have to say that my favorite so far is Marquess and Yohei Fukuda. It's very unfortunate that Marquess does not provide MTM service. I'm now considering between HY and YF.

If your schedule allows, wouldn't it be a great idea to meet in Tokyo? Will have to see the schedule for these guys first though.

Thanks again!

While Shoji-san (Marquess) has a much closer and personal ties with G&G, Yohei Fukuda is stylistically closer to G&G. Like Tony, Fukuda looks back to the 1920`s (Deco age) for his inspiration.

Also, while I see nothing wrong with trying out the MTM shoes by the shoemakers above, you may also want to consider bespoke shoes (since you`ll be in Japan regularly). Misawa & Workshop, Egawa Custom Shoemaker, gentile 79, Annonymous, Le Scarpe di Cabiria, and Bottega Tramoda are just a few that offers full bespoke for ¥200K or less in Tokyo.

Egawa Daizo is probably the best known (and the most generous at 150K)
Misawa-san is a Guild and Materna alumnus, I find his workmanship to be superb. ¥200K
Gentile 79: Endo-san is a newcomer: A former Delos apprentice, his shoes are looking better and better over the past year. I`m watching him very closely. ¥180K

Yes there are many many shoemakers working in Tokyo, and I have been learning that many of them, including some very talented ones, choose to remain working behind the scene as outworkers (for both Japanese and foreign bespoke makers). Busy firms such as Yohei Fukuda and Spigola both employ outworkers they trust.

and yes if I happen to be in Japan (quite likely), we can definitely have a meet up! fing02[1].gif
post #2655 of 3025
Quote
and yes if I happen to be in Japan (quite likely), we can definitely have a meet up! fing02[1].gif

 

Cool Beans!!!  Will let you know when it's closer to the date

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post
Misawa & Workshop, Egawa Custom Shoemaker, gentile 79, Annonymous, Le Scarpe di Cabiria, and Bottega Tramoda are just a few that offers full bespoke for ¥200K or less in Tokyo.

 

:slayer:Oh man, I am now confused again - spoilt for choices!!!  I like Misawa's design & style as well...hmmm...bespoke for that price is quite tempting

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