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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 175

post #2611 of 2855
^congrats. Is he completing one pair first? Two on the first order is a risky move...
post #2612 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post


Koji was a pleasure to work with and I eagerly await my first bespoke pairs from him...and already anticipate that we will work together on several more pairs in the future.

icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Most excellent!! Thanks for sharing us the experience!

Looks like a long way to go (`til delivery), but keep us updated along the way!!!!
Edited by nutcracker - 5/18/14 at 8:06pm
post #2613 of 2855

No, I have ordered two and will have them both finished at the same time.

 

I don't think its risky...when you have seen his work up-close and personal...you know the end result will be good.

 

As far as fit...with two trial shoes...before the final pair...its plenty of time to make sure he gets it right.

 

Yes, delivery is a long way...but I am not troubled by this. Koji and his family are clearly very passionate and perfectionists...and they make so few bespoke pairs per year...I am very happy patiently waiting as they take their time to ensure that the shoes are flawlessly crafted.

 

And I am dead serious when I say that the Bespoke samples I saw from him were flawless...everything from the sole and waist treatment to hand stitching on the uppers...the lines...everything...done so very carefully with the most minute attention to detail.

post #2614 of 2855
^ I've seen the work up close. I think the work is good and I ordered a pair as well yesterday. Is this your first time ordering bespoke? Two on the first go-around is always a mistake. Even if they both turn out well you lose the opportunity for improvement from one to the other. Lobb Paris wouldn't even take the order and I'm actually a little surprised that spigola would. Delivery time doesn't seem bad. I was told he comes back in October for a fitting. I would be surprised if I need a second fitting as no one else has for me, but everyone's foot is different.
post #2615 of 2855

It is my first bespoke...and I'm not too worried...

 

If they need improvements...I'll order more.

post #2616 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

It is my first bespoke...and I'm not too worried...

If they need improvements...I'll order more.

That`s the right attitude! fing02[1].gif
post #2617 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

It is my first bespoke...and I'm not too worried...

If they need improvements...I'll order more.

From what I've seen on pictures I don't think it's possible to be unsatisfied with the esthetics at least. I prefer his more classic designs, but they all have a very specific character.

Look forward to see the results!
post #2618 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

It is my first bespoke...and I'm not too worried...

 

If they need improvements...I'll order more.

Very nice choice and a nice post that tells of a great craftsman. Compliments. I can not wait to see new pictures.

post #2619 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

It is my first bespoke...and I'm not too worried...

And you really shouldn't be, imho! When he tells you he might need two pairs of trial shoes then that's obviously because he is a perfectionist and will do anything to get you the best fit possible. Him being among the very best shoemakers in the world (if not actually t h e best...) you can be very sure there won't be any issues.

post #2620 of 2855
^Yeah - that is the classic rookie mistake. Just sayin'.

Anyway, I really like the shoes. I basically walked into the Armoury by chance and while I think I'd heard of Koji Suzuki on this board, I wasn't familiar with his work and didn't know who he was and I ended up ordering a pair. I saw a shoe from across the room and they were painfully beautiful and so obviously bespoke that I was actually a little taken aback to be seeing something like that sitting in my neighborhood. It was pretty cool when I found out that the maker was downstairs.

What is most striking about Koji's shoes is the line from the front opening above the laces all the way down to the front of the toe. Rather than a gentle slope, you have a sharp drop off a cliff, following by a horizontal line that extends all the way to the toe, then slopes downward again. I wish I had taken an eye-level profile photo as you can't really see if from the photos above, but it is striking. You can get a sense of it from the brown captoe. The bespoke shoes can't be anything other than bespoke. I like that.

The fitting process was shorter and involved fewer measurements than the other makers I've used, but I don't extrapolate much from that as he might have a more involved fitting process and might just be a great fitter. So it didn't concern me. I found him pulling the tape measure much tighter across my foot than others, which I liked (and I asked for a close fit so that might be why he did it).

As far as the impossibly fitted waists, I assume that they are just that - impossible, and only for bespoke samples that don't fit any actual foot. If my shoes do come out that fitted, than wow. But I think some of what is done in the samples isn't reflective of what he does for shoes that people wear and is more to show what he theoretically can do (notice the sole above without a back piece of rubber). I thought the finish was really excellent and exactly what you want to see when looking at bespoke samples. Someone in another thread commented that using the tail of the alligator in a bespoke shoe seems like an odd choice but it didn't bother me at all.

The coolest part of the process was watching Koji draw the shoe on a piece of paper, adding or moving a seam, making little adjustments and asking questions. I had never seen anyone do that before. Particularly given that we didn't speak the same language, I thought it was very reassuring to see my shoe on a piece of paper.

If they feel as good as they look, I will be very happy.
post #2621 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

No, I have ordered two and will have them both finished at the same time.

 

And I am dead serious when I say that the Bespoke samples I saw from him were flawless...everything from the sole and waist treatment to hand stitching on the uppers...the lines...everything...done so very carefully with the most minute attention to detail.

 

    congrats PC, I think you've chosen well. this is gonna be good

post #2622 of 2855

I'm really digging the one with the monk strap, very sleek design!

post #2623 of 2855
Thread Starter 
How about some Bespoke news from Tokyo!

*

Starting this weekend (5/24), Munich based shoemaker Ryota Hayafuji will be taking orders at Old Hat Tokyo (5/24~5/26) and Osaka (5/30~6/1).
Theres also gonna be a welcoming party (open for anyone) for Hayafuji-san on Saturday night at a Harajuku restaurant. I attended the party last time, and had a wonderful time chatting with him, as well as some big names in Japanese shoe industry. Highly recommended!

Old Hat Link:
http://oldhat-jpn.com/vintage/vintage_2363.html
post #2624 of 2855
@PCK1 I strolled into The Armoury last Friday evening to check out the trunk show as I've never seen or handled any Japanese shoes and was intrigued since Suzuki-san was in town and saw those very models you took photos of. I was extremely impressed with what I saw and like you say flawless bespoke, I really loved the brown toe cap! Although I'm not in the market (or have the funds!!) if I ever decide to go bespoke Spigola will be up there!

Looking forwared to seeing the finished pairs next year!
post #2625 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

How about some Bespoke news from Tokyo!

*

Starting this weekend (5/24), Munich based shoemaker Ryota Hayafuji will be taking orders at Old Hat Tokyo (5/24~5/26) and Osaka (5/30~6/1).
Theres also gonna be a welcoming party (open for anyone) for Hayafuji-san on Saturday night at a Harajuku restaurant. I attended the party last time, and had a wonderful time chatting with him, as well as some big names in Japanese shoe industry. Highly recommended!

Old Hat Link:
http://oldhat-jpn.com/vintage/vintage_2363.html

The first left I love it. Beautiful.

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