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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 169

post #2521 of 2884
Thread Starter 
ISETAN JAPAN SENSES 4/9~4/13

The finale of the annual celebration of Japanese artisans, JAPAN SENSES, kicked off today at the Isetan Department store. 25 or so of the country`s best known artisans gathered for this weekend`s event, giving us a rare opportunity to meet and chat with them. The artisans themselves seemed to have been enjoying the occasion as well, to find time to meet their peers and rivals.

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Co sponsored by MEN`S EX magazine, the exhibition also featured talk shows with fashionable celebrities

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Who`s Who from Japan`s tailoring and craftsmaking world have gathered for this event

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Our favourite shoemaker, Shoji-san from Marquess

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Takes my breath away, every time I see them


I`m starting to really like Marquess`s Classic Round last (the center shoe in ocre calf). The chestnut calf wingtip on the left is on Marquess Round, an equally stunning last.


More greating looking Marquess shoes

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Last shaping demonstration

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Mr. Yohei Fukuda, checking on the foot measurements.


An absolutely stunning Imitation full brogue balmoral oxford in faded black calf. Fukuda-san carefully removes a thin layer of pigment, to reveal the greens, blues, and browns that are the base colors of the black (chrome tanned) leather.

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Yohei Fukuda`s immaculate silhouette.

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A newcomer to this year`s show, Mr. Hironori Kamo from Otsuka Shoes.

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Tools for bottom making

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Needle sharp tough boar`s hair is the preferred material for outstitching.


Like many other Japanese shoemakers, Kamo san`s outstitching is done by eye, without the use of marking wheels. This method allows the maker to use his sense and experience to adjust the pitch where necessary. The toe section is stitched tighter to keep the pitch uniform throughout the shoe.

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Otsuka`s high end RTW shoes. Fully hand made by the bespoke team. Workmanship is flawless.

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The extra thin edges, made possible by bevelling the sole, is one of Otsuka`s signature details.

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A glamorous looking sole.

The show ends tomorrow! Be there if you can!!
post #2522 of 2884

That imitation full brogue in bleached black is stunning!!

 

Why don't these guys come to the USA????

post #2523 of 2884

Beautiful reportage ... really. You always do great work.

post #2524 of 2884
Thread Starter 
This weekend seems to be particularly `Trunk Show heavy` in Tokyo.
ISETAN JAPAN SENSES (Isetan),Spigola Bespoke Trunk Show (United Arrows), Miyagi Kogyo Trunk Show (WFG Harajuku), Shoe Republic Bespoke (Rifare Ebisu) etc...

and then there is the ongoing Foster & Son Tokyo Trunk Show that I dropped by today. The show ends on 4/15

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Lovely shoes. I especially like the V-front wingtip derby. Very `Foster`-like!

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and even more lovely, Ms. Emiko Matsuda

I posted more shoes on the Foster`s thread!!
post #2525 of 2884

damn,i have to agree that the girl is more lovely:slayer:

post #2526 of 2884
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

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Are these current models? I mean, if you order a pair will you get something like the ones above? Whats the problem with the inside of the tasseled shoe? British quality versus Japanese quality!? What were their prices in Yen?
post #2527 of 2884
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post


Haha, no they are really old samples. Not many makers could boast a collection of archival grade shoes like Foster, and they were a pleasure to look at. But yeah, some of them looked really beat up, and could use some proper shoe care / repair, IMO biggrin.gif

I think Foster bespoke goes for 3000 GBP (2500 GBP minus VAT, or 420K JPY)
post #2528 of 2884
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

That imitation full brogue in bleached black is stunning!!

Why don't these guys come to the USA????

I would Imagine cause they are very small companys with limited production they dont need to travel to have work to do.
post #2529 of 2884
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


 Not many makers could boast a collection of archival grade shoes like Foster, and they were a pleasure to look at.

 

Agreed. But the problem here is that you really don`t know what you are getting - I mean they can `copy` an old classic, but with differences to the materials, finish, and needless to say the artisans, the chances of it coming out like the original is pretty slim IMO. At least with the Japanese makers, you know exactly what you are getting. Ive seen old Lobbs that are breathtakingly beautiful (in their windows), but the modern version I`d never pay that price for, nor even half the price. With a Fukuda et al, you get what you see. And by keeping those shoes in that condition is a turn-off in my opinion - the Japanese would never let any of their work get into that condition. Admittedly, some of these are 30-70 years old, but have never seen a conditioner in that time too. But anyway, enough said, and best kept here, as a study in contrast between the Japanese and British offering. Ten years ago I would not buy British bespoke over Japanese, but thats flipped around. 

post #2530 of 2884
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post

Agreed. But the problem here is that you really don`t know what you are getting - I mean they can `copy` an old classic, but with differences to the materials, finish, and needless to say the artisans, the chances of it coming out like the original is pretty slim IMO. At least with the Japanese makers, you know exactly what you are getting. Ive seen old Lobbs that are breathtakingly beautiful (in their windows), but the modern version I`d never pay that price for, nor even half the price. With a Fukuda et al, you get what you see. And by keeping those shoes in that condition is a turn-off in my opinion - the Japanese would never let any of their work get into that condition. Admittedly, some of these are 30-70 years old, but have never seen a conditioner in that time too. But anyway, enough said, and best kept here, as a study in contrast between the Japanese and British offering. Ten years ago I would not buy British bespoke over Japanese, but thats flipped around. 

Foster`s `newer` bespoke samples that I saw weren`t shabby at all. Also, if it means anything, I know there are a couple of Japanese hands involved in the current Foster`s bespoke shoemaking operation smile.gif

I do dig the visual quality of Foster`s `fading` finish, and I find it`s purpose, which is to artificially make the bespoke shoes look as if it was sitting by the window for decades, to be highly amusing. I wonder if it was a customer, or a shoemaker, that came up with the idea
post #2531 of 2884

Fairly certain Foster&Son get shoemakers like Ryota Hayafuji to make their shoes.

post #2532 of 2884
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Montana View Post

Fairly certain Foster&Son get shoemakers like Ryota Hayafuji to make their shoes.

Oh really? I have not heard of that before. Fascinating, but not surprising
post #2533 of 2884
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Oh really? I have not heard of that before. Fascinating, but not surprising

Depending on their order situation, I suppose, they send away the lasts and uppers to makers like him and receive back the finalised shoes.

post #2534 of 2884
Thread Starter 
More fun in Tokyo this weekend

Il Quadrifoglio Bespoke Trunk Show @ World Footwear Gallery Kioicho 4/18~4/20

A pair of bi-colored croc loafers (and a matching belt) for a lucky customer
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CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), default quality
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), default quality

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post #2535 of 2884
This is by far, the best thread in SF!!! Thanks to everyone here for sharing pictures and their experiences!!!

Wanted to share my latest acquisition of Sanyo Yamacho MTO which I had picked up in Tokyo. It's no spigola or il quadrifiglio by any means, but still quite pleased with the outcome. Finishing is top notch and the leather very very supple!

As I will be travelling to Japan quite frequently (bi monthly) with my new assignment, I do plan to visit many of the Japanese shoemakers

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