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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 165

post #2461 of 2917
Thread Starter 
Real Bespoke Exhibition starts today!
@ Gallery Ryabina, Omotesando 3/18~3/23
http://realbespoke.info

*
from Hiro Yanagimachi FB

Hopefully I can snap some photos to share on this thread!
post #2462 of 2917
Thread Starter 
Real Bespoke @ Gallery Rybina

A joint effort between Hiro Yanagimachi (shoes), Fugee (leather bags), and Hitsujiya (tailor), Real Bespoke is not only a showcase for the extraordinary handcrafts made by these top Japanese artisans, but also a celebration of the Bespoke-making culture in Japan. The exhibit is organized into 3 zones. The first zone shows the design and construction process (predominantly by hand) from each of the 3 disciplines. The second zone is a showcase of their new creations, tied together with a theme (formal, town use etc..). The third zone brings together actual bespoken goods that have aged through time (borrowed from the owners).

I was fortunate to be invited and to take pictures along with the press before the crowd was expected to arrive (its free btw). I would strongly recommend anyone in Tokyo to visit, it`s also a great chance to meet and talk with the craftsmen. For those who obviously can`t, I hope these pictures would give you folks a good idea of this exhibit. For the purpose of this thread, I`m mainly posting pictures of Hiro Yanagimachi`s shoes.







Zone 1 Process & Technique

A very neat way to show how a foot is measured
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
AppleMark
Measurement and last making is done by Hiro Yanagimachi himself. Very comprehensive to say the least. The exhibit allows you to see and touch the wooden last and compare it to the cast model of the foot (the last is based on).

AppleMark

Upper pattern and construction

AppleMark
The talented Ms. Konomi Egawa, patterner/clicker/closer. Visit her instagram!

AppleMark

Bottom making process, from hand welting to outstitching to sole finishing.


Zone 2 Scene Coordination

`Classic Formal` scene. Nakano-san`s (Hitsujiya) full-hand sewn coat looks dashing.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

A luxurious duet of Hiro Yanagimachi and Fugee.

AppleMark
Classic black/grey buttoned-up boots

AppleMark
Custom made button hook. Stirling silver and buffalo horn

AppleMark
Side laced plaintoe oxfords


Essentially a 2 piece construction, the back piece sits above the front/vamp piece on the quarter seem (like a derby), yet is tucked under at the lacestay (like an oxford). The laces are woven silk with sterling silver tips.



A Croc vallet stunner by Fugee


`Town Casual`

AppleMark
Long vamp wingtip derbies in burgundy cordovan. An instant winner!

AppleMark
Triple monk boots in natty Chromexel


`Resort Casual`

AppleMark
Lizard / canvas combo


A pair of suede ghillies. Meant to be worn casually and barefooted, the topline is designed like a loafer


Zone 3 Customer`s Models

Well worn suits, bags, and shoes assembled for the exhibit.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
AppleMark

AppleMark


Accompanied by the owners` profiles and messages

AppleMark
Mr. Hiro Yanagimachi

AppleMark
Great looking shoes for himself


The exhibition starts today 3/18 (Tues) and ends on 3/23 (Sunday)
@ Gallery Rybina, Omotesando. Entrance is free
http://realbespoke.info
Facebook
Edited by nutcracker - 3/18/14 at 5:27pm
post #2463 of 2917

absolutely beautiful.

post #2464 of 2917
Thread Starter 
I hope some of our fellow expatriates will make way to the Real Bespoke Exhibition this weekend!
Meet and chat with Hiro-san and his talented team!


Hiro Yanagimachi (FB)
post #2465 of 2917
Thread Starter 
Talkin about another venue currently in town, George Cleverley is currently having their Bespoke Trunk Show @ the Penninsula Hotel, Tokyo.

Tomorrow (Sat.), Mr. George Glasgow Sr. will be at Isetan Men`s, conducting an MTO fair for the Anthony Cleverly Line.

15 models, and 3 leathers to choose from, but here is the catch... starting price ¥356,400 JPY ($3500 USD / 2100 GBP)
Glad to know they are standing behind the quality of AC shoes


from Isetan Men`s FB
post #2466 of 2917
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Glad to know they are standing behind the quality of AC shoes

I'm afraid their AC line is done by Alfred Sargent. Comparing recent ACs with recent AS HGs leads to this conclusion. Therefore one could easily get in touch with Chay Cooper from AS and order a MTO Handgrade, which is, in my opinion, slightly above the AC line in terms of quality/finish and cheaper in price.

Many thanks Nutcracker for these amazing insights as well as beautiful pictures.

Regards
post #2467 of 2917
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Talkin about another venue currently in town, George Cleverley is currently having their Bespoke Trunk Show @ the Penninsula Hotel, Tokyo.

Tomorrow (Sat.), Mr. George Glasgow Sr. will be at Isetan Men`s, conducting an MTO fair for the Anthony Cleverly Line.

15 models, and 3 leathers to choose from, but here is the catch... starting price ¥356,400 JPY ($3500 USD / 2100 GBP)
Glad to know they are standing behind the quality of AC shoes


from Isetan Men`s FB


Very nice model.

post #2468 of 2917
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarMan View Post


I'm afraid their AC line is done by Alfred Sargent. Comparing recent ACs with recent AS HGs leads to this conclusion. Therefore one could easily get in touch with Chay Cooper from AS and order a MTO Handgrade, which is, in my opinion, slightly above the AC line in terms of quality/finish and cheaper in price.

Many thanks Nutcracker for these amazing insights as well as beautiful pictures.
 

Edward Green I believe is the maker, and not AS. AS hand grade in my opinion are some of the best looking shoes in the box, but that goes downhill fast after the first crease - not sure what it is, possibly the F width, but also the fact that their finish is superb, but the underlying quality is quite lacking IMHO...

post #2469 of 2917
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarMan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Glad to know they are standing behind the quality of AC shoes

I'm afraid their AC line is done by Alfred Sargent. Comparing recent ACs with recent AS HGs leads to this conclusion. Therefore one could easily get in touch with Chay Cooper from AS and order a MTO Handgrade, which is, in my opinion, slightly above the AC line in terms of quality/finish and cheaper in price.

Many thanks Nutcracker for these amazing insights as well as beautiful pictures.

Regards

Hello Cigarman

Out of curiosity which features are common between those two? I have not handled AS shoes personally. I have a pair of AC from LS clearance sale and had an impression that could have come from EG.

Anyway price in Japan is very steep. More expensive than most of hand welted shoes or even a bedpoke shoes.
post #2470 of 2917
Nutcracker,

Is that suit in the first picture from your Real Bespoke post from Hitsujiya?

Thank you, sir.
post #2471 of 2917
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit50 View Post

Nutcracker,

Is that suit in the first picture from your Real Bespoke post from Hitsujiya?

Yes they sure are!
post #2472 of 2917
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Yes they sure are!

Very nice picture
post #2473 of 2917
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

I hope some of our fellow expatriates will make way to the Real Bespoke Exhibition this weekend!
Meet and chat with Hiro-san and his talented team!


Hiro Yanagimachi (FB)

 

I happened to be in Tokyo this weekend so I managed to come to the event at the almost last minute on the last date.

Mr. Yanagimachi was explaining his shoe making to some audiences.   He is very good at lecture and he must be a good teacher. Good example and logical explanation.   There are real examples of his shoes he made for clients.  They are in various sizes and designs.  All look well balanced and attractive.   They may not be super sexy photogenic babies but are really good looking if you see in person. 

post #2474 of 2917
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

I happened to be in Tokyo this weekend so I managed to come to the event at the almost last minute on the last date.
Mr. Yanagimachi was explaining his shoe making to some audiences.   He is very good at lecture and he must be a good teacher. Good example and logical explanation.   There are real examples of his shoes he made for clients.  They are in various sizes and designs.  All look well balanced and attractive.   They may not be super sexy photogenic babies but are really good looking if you see in person. 

I totally agree with both points!! smile.gif

The other team members of his workshop (all very young) are essentially his students, and their workmanship is quite amazing.
post #2475 of 2917
Thread Starter 
TYE Shoemaker`s Tsuyoshi Ohno interviewed by Claymoor`s List



http://www.claymoorslist.com/portfolios/tye-shoemaker
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