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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 160

post #2386 of 3016
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by griffon_id View Post

What is the price range I am looking at?

Main-d`or bespoke starts from ¥290,000 JPY (about $2850 USD)
I don`t think the trees are included though
post #2387 of 3016
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Main-d`or by Eiji Murata

The man with the Midas touch: His name is Eiji Murata, a son of a shoemaker, and a 100% home grown and trained craftsman. He founded Main-D`or about 10 years ago, while also teaching full time at the Esperanza (a shoemaking academy in Asakusa). On the off days (from teaching), he works on commissions at his own studio in a Chiba suburb. He seems to be content in making shoes quietly in his own pace, for those who appreciates his craft, and are willing to seek him out (usually through referrals). He also seems to shun media attention, and not much information (about him) is available in print or online (up until quite recently, an interview on the LAST magazine).

So I decided to take a pilgrimage (to Chiba, an hour ride from central Tokyo) to meet this mysterious shoemaker who is often referred to as `one of the very best` by his peers. Let`s just say that my expectations were very very high. Murata-san greeted me to enter his unassuming studio with a simple plaque that read `Bespoke Shoemaker: Main-D`or`. After serving me a fine cup of coffee, he brought out his shoes and welcomed me to handle them.

So how were they? To be very honest, they were exactly as I imagined. First of all, the level of fit and finish were off the charts. Along with these were sample shoes, I also handled some of his (finished) commissioned works (no pictures!). Indeed they were finished to the same level of details. Then the silhouette came into view. The lasts` shapes were soft, reserved, and well thought out (something that I have started to appreciate more).

Main-d`or shoes aren`t particularly styled in the English tradition though, a point emphasised by Murata himself. The Japanese approach to shoe design, particularly last making, has grown to be fundamentally different from the English / European counterpart, he said. While I can`t really attest about how the fit differs between English vs Japanese shoes, I did sense that locally trained Japanese shoemakers (such as himself) took pride in their Japanese shoemaking heritage. Murata said he and his circle of local shoemakers are very much into rediscovering and preserving the styles and methods used in the country`s past. A fascinating insight into the mind of a consummate artisan.

Main-d`or Bespoke samples:



Soft lines. Impeccable craftsmanship. This must be his golden formula.


Round Toes


Wingtips


The Bevelled Waist


Japanese baby calfskin: Among the finest grained leather that I`ve seen. Only the best available specimens from Ilcea, Zonta, as well from Japanese tanneries, are stocked.


Main-d`or provides 2 fitting sessions to ensure an optimum fit. The 2nd trial shoes are worn over a period of a month or so, and the uppers` creases, the soles` wear pattern provides cues for further optimisation.


Wooden lasts are all carved out from rough-turns.


Shoemaker`s tools


The far right one is a 20 spi marking wheel. `Sure I can make you a pair (with these), although they won't be
very practical` biggrin.gif


16 stitches per inch, the default for dress shoes.


Mr. Eiji Murata


My thanks to Murata-san for his hospitality!

Fantastic .... but it has a website? Or are these the only images available?

post #2388 of 3016
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gianni Cerutti View Post

Fantastic .... but it has a website? Or are these the only images available?

Hi Gianni,

Main-d`or has no website. I have posted some of his shoes before on this thread, should come up if you use the `search the thread` function.
post #2389 of 3016
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Main-d`or by Eiji Murata

The man with the Midas touch: His name is Eiji Murata, a son of a shoemaker, and a 100% home grown and trained craftsman.

...so he hasn't gone to Europe to learn these masterful skills? If he really has learned everything from his father and then just by experimentation, Murata is definitely among the most talented Japanese cordwainers. Most of the guys featured in this thread have tapped from Lobb and the like.
post #2390 of 3016
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Main-d`or by Eiji Murata

The man with the Midas touch: His name is Eiji Murata, a son of a shoemaker, and a 100% home grown and trained craftsman. He founded Main-D`or about 10 years ago, while also teaching full time at the Esperanza (a shoemaking academy in Asakusa). On the off days (from teaching), he works on commissions at his own studio in a Chiba suburb. He seems to be content in making shoes quietly in his own pace, for those who appreciates his craft, and are willing to seek him out (usually through referrals). He also seems to shun media attention, and not much information (about him) is available in print or online (up until quite recently, an interview on the LAST magazine).

So I decided to take a pilgrimage (to Chiba, an hour ride from central Tokyo) to meet this mysterious shoemaker who is often referred to as `one of the very best` by his peers. Let`s just say that my expectations were very very high. Murata-san greeted me to enter his unassuming studio with a simple plaque that read `Bespoke Shoemaker: Main-D`or`. After serving me a fine cup of coffee, he brought out his shoes and welcomed me to handle them.

So how were they? To be very honest, they were exactly as I imagined. First of all, the level of fit and finish were off the charts. Along with these were sample shoes, I also handled some of his (finished) commissioned works (no pictures!). Indeed they were finished to the same level of details. Then the silhouette came into view. The lasts` shapes were soft, reserved, and well thought out (something that I have started to appreciate more).

Main-d`or shoes aren`t particularly styled in the English tradition though, a point emphasised by Murata himself. The Japanese approach to shoe design, particularly last making, has grown to be fundamentally different from the English / European counterpart, he said. While I can`t really attest about how the fit differs between English vs Japanese shoes, I did sense that locally trained Japanese shoemakers (such as himself) took pride in their Japanese shoemaking heritage. Murata said he and his circle of local shoemakers are very much into rediscovering and preserving the styles and methods used in the country`s past. A fascinating insight into the mind of a consummate artisan.

Main-d`or Bespoke samples:



Soft lines. Impeccable craftsmanship. This must be his golden formula.


Round Toes


Wingtips


The Bevelled Waist


Japanese baby calfskin: Among the finest grained leather that I`ve seen. Only the best available specimens from Ilcea, Zonta, as well from Japanese tanneries, are stocked.


Main-d`or provides 2 fitting sessions to ensure an optimum fit. The 2nd trial shoes are worn over a period of a month or so, and the uppers` creases, the soles` wear pattern provides cues for further optimisation.


Wooden lasts are all carved out from rough-turns.


Shoemaker`s tools


The far right one is a 20 spi marking wheel. `Sure I can make you a pair (with these), although they won't be
very practical` biggrin.gif


16 stitches per inch, the default for dress shoes.


Mr. Eiji Murata


My thanks to Murata-san for his hospitality!

NC,great article!:bounce2: 

post #2391 of 3016
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

...so he hasn't gone to Europe to learn these masterful skills? If he really has learned everything from his father and then just by experimentation, Murata is definitely among the most talented Japanese cordwainers. Most of the guys featured in this thread have tapped from Lobb and the like.

Haha sorry for not being clear, I meant homegrown as in `inside Japan only` (I will edit that part in my writeup). Though his father has been a major influence on him, he did graduate from a Japanese shoemaking academy (urged by his father). However, the school only offered basic handmaking skills, and most of his shoemaking knowledge were self taught (through experimentations), he says. I know he`s been teaching for a while, and quite a few of his pupils are now in the business of bespoke/ handmade shoes. In fact I recall one of his student is now employed as an in-house shoemaker at an English bespoke house we all know (I can`t reveal smile.gif.)
Edited by nutcracker - 2/28/14 at 6:51pm
post #2392 of 3016
post #2393 of 3016
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Hi Gianni,

Main-d`or has no website. I have posted some of his shoes before on this thread, should come up if you use the `search the thread` function.

Too bad ... I would have liked to see her website ... but I will look the photos you've done in the past ... Thanks again.

post #2394 of 3016
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeMakers View Post

Hidetaka Fukaya
Acquired tastes - Article from Monocle Magazine


from the Monocle article: Fukaya`s pupils.... master shoemakers of tomorrow smile.gif

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 75
post #2395 of 3016
Thread Starter 
For those living in Osaka / Kansai area, a great opportunity to meet Mr. Yohei Fukuda and to see his wonderful shoes this weekend.
Yohei Fukuda Trunk Show: March 1~2 (today and tomorrow)
@ Vulcanize Osaka

also from Yohei Fukuda Blog:

A stunning pair of bespoke Chukka boots.




The line of stitches that extends from the heel is stitched through the lining, and keeps the stiffener below in place. The portion that contacts the ankle bones (above the stitches) are unlined for comfort. An old technique that is seldom seem today.

and another pair...


A Doublemonk Booty with imitation caps. Also partially unlined.
post #2396 of 3016
Thread Starter 
Also coming up next weekend:

Gaziano & Girling Bespoke Trunk Show
with Daniel Wegan
March 7~8 @ Brift H, Aoyama Tokyo

The show is taking place at the stylish shoeshine parlour, Brift H. Should be very interesting. smile.gif

This weekend, Brift H is also celebrating an opening of their new concept store, THE BAR.




Brift H FB
Edited by nutcracker - 2/28/14 at 7:02pm
post #2397 of 3016

Those chukkas and the double monk boot are WOWOWOOWOW :bounce2:

post #2398 of 3016
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

For those living in Osaka / Kansai area, a great opportunity to meet Mr. Yohei Fukuda and to see his wonderful shoes this weekend.
Yohei Fukuda Trunk Show: March 1~2 (today and tomorrow)
@ Vulcanize Osaka

also from Yohei Fukuda Blog:

A stunning pair of bespoke Chukka boots.




The line of stitches that extends from the heel is stitched through the lining, and keeps the stiffener below in place. The portion that contacts the ankle bones (above the stitches) are unlined for comfort. An old technique that is seldom seem today.

and another pair...


A Doublemonk Booty with imitation caps. Also partially unlined.

That's cool ... fantastic ... these two other shoes Fukuda do nothing but confirm his talent

post #2399 of 3016

TYE SHOEMAKER
Trial fitting shoes

http://www.tyeshoemaker.com/

post #2400 of 3016
Thread Starter 
The annual celebration of Japanese artisans is coming up next month!

JAPAN SENSES @ Mitsukoshi / Isetan (4/1~4/12), co-sponsored by MEN`S EX magazine



As far as shoemakers go, Shoji Kawaguchi (Marquess), Yohei Fukuda, and Otsuka Shoes would be conducting shoemaking demos and taking orders at the exhibition. Patina artist, Yusuke Ito will also be there for demos.

Other artisans of interest: Nakata Hanger (bespoke hangers), Ishida Brush (handmade brush for vicuna), and a whole bunch of tailors who work in/out of Japan (Tailor Caid, Pecora Ginza, Ichiro Suzuki etc... some offering special discounts).

Check out the latest edition of MEN`S EX for more info (though I have`t got mine yet smile.gif)

You can find my report on last year`s event here
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