or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 156

post #2326 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Welcome to the Styleforum!

Major department stores and select stores conduct member`s outlet sales every 2 months or so (usually announced online), but I have been able to enter (usually at hotel banquest halls )without being checked. Big sizes are usually abundant at outlet sales.

Super 8 Shoes is a reputable online store that sells mostly used/vintage shoes, but they also stock a good amount of brand new deadstock shoes at a good price. A lot of US brand shoes, though.
http://t-8intl.com/index.html

KOMEHYO (specficially the one in Shinjuku) has lots of lightly used (and also mint condition ones) with a significant markdown.

Good luck on your bargain hunting! I`m sure other Tokyoites could chip in too.

Hi  nutcracker,

It's a pleasure to be here. I've always been a casual lurker, but your thread was too powerful to resist signing up for any longer!

Thank you for the tips! I will check out all of those, and hopefully report back with a good purchase!

If anyone else has any advice I would really appreciate it!

BTW, have you ever considered doing a tour of one of the shoe-heavy areas with other Tokyo members? I think it could be pretty cool!

Thanks again

post #2327 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


These are the insoles from Okuyama-san`s page. I`ve seen a similar one made by Egawa-san (o.e.), and I recall the side portion was quite rigid too. This plus an wrap around counter should be quite supportive.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
*


In English shoemaking it is known as "Insole up in waist"





and any bespoke firm (worth their salt) should be able to do this for you on request. They might not be too keen, as any mistake in the shape of the insole will necessitate a complete remake. (As has happened in the case of the photograph. The cut stitches show the insole was welted in, but was then redundant as there were problems with the fit. The last needed adjustments and so a new insole was required.)

Another method of arch support would be an extended heel stiffener/counter, which I personally find sublimely comfortable (I have no experience with "insole up in waist").

post #2328 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

[/SPOILER]

In English shoemaking it is known as "Insole up in waist"





and any bespoke firm (worth their salt) should be able to do this for you on request. They might not be too keen, as any mistake in the shape of the insole will necessitate a complete remake. (As has happened in the case of the photograph. The cut stitches show the insole was welted in, but was then redundant as there were problems with the fit. The last needed adjustments and so a new insole was required.)

Fascinating! Was this `insole up in waist` a common method used for English shoes in the past? Or was it intended as a special purpose insole? (for feet that needs extra arch support?)

Some Japanese shoemakers seems to prefer this `insole up in the waist`, and I know Osamu Egawa (from o.e). uses this method as a default for all of his vintage inspired shoes. I assume Okuyama-san does so too.
post #2329 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Fascinating! Was this `insole up in waist` a common method used for English shoes in the past? Or was it intended as a special purpose insole? (for feet that needs extra arch support?)

Some Japanese shoemakers seems to prefer this `insole up in the waist`, and I know Osamu Egawa (from o.e). uses this method as a default for all of his vintage inspired shoes. I assume Okuyama-san does so too.

I better ask Mr O on that... i dont know it is going to be 'beer or spirit' decision.
post #2330 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Fascinating! Was this `insole up in waist` a common method used for English shoes in the past? Or was it intended as a special purpose insole? (for feet that needs extra arch support?)

Here is Carreducker's take on "insole up in waist":

http://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/insole-up-in-waist.html

http://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/insole-up-in-waist-2.html


James Ducker calls it "not a particularly common feature". I would say, this method comes originally from orthopaedic shoemaking, where certain feet might need a lot of support or built-ups.

Whether "insole up in waist" in general (non-orthopaedic) shoemaking was more popular fifty or hundred years ago, I wouldn't know.
post #2331 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Here is Carreducker's take on "insole up in waist":

http://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/insole-up-in-waist.html

http://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/insole-up-in-waist-2.html


James Ducker calls it "not a particularly common feature". I would say, this method comes originally from orthopaedic shoemaking, where certain feet might need a lot of support or built-ups.

Whether "insole up in waist" in general (non-orthopaedic) shoemaking was more popular fifty or hundred years ago, I wouldn't know.

As always! Thanks for the info! Looks like a neat solution IMO, though an extended heel stiffiners (like the one above) are probably more than adequate for normally arched feet.
post #2332 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Saint Crispins Trunk Show in Tokyo Feb 20~22

I dropped by the posh Mandarin Oriental Hotel to say hi to Mr. Carr, along with The Armoury Team. This is Saint Crispin`s first trunk show in Japan, and Philip will be offering the brand`s signature services such as the pattern/last customisation to the Japanese clients for the fist time (St.C RTW has just been discontinued at Trading Post). MTO shoes are offered at the price of 224K JPY / 2200 USD (import tax included). The show will end tomorrow.

AppleMark

The Armoury originals (designed by Ethan Newton) were also there, and they looked great.


Sueded, textured, and crust leather samples.


The famous hollowed trees are made from birch wood.


Myself in a pair of St.C sample shoes (in Classic last). Fit is generous and comfortable.


Philip and Ethan


Philip and Alan

My thanks to Herr Carr and The Armoury Team for their hospitality!
Edited by nutcracker - 2/21/14 at 9:24pm
post #2333 of 2861

Nutcracker, Spigola MTO's are cheaper right?Any reason why the Japanese will go for St C's when you have the equivalent of Spigola's at a cheaper price?I believe quality wise, they are on par (or maybe Spigola's are better).

post #2334 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by terrorsquad View Post

Nutcracker, Spigola MTO's are cheaper right?Any reason why the Japanese will go for St C's when you have the equivalent of Spigola's at a cheaper price?I believe quality wise, they are on par (or maybe Spigola's are better).

Interesting thought! but a Japanese buyer will have many other choices of MTO shoes (with similar quality/price points) to choose from too!! smile.gif

In terms of being `hand made` or being fully customisable, I don`t think St.C brings anything fresh to the table for an informed Japanese buyer. Many Japanese makers offer exactly that: fully customisable MTO shoes (and 100% handmade) for about the same price or lower (the lead time is much longer though). The St.C hollowed trees are really something, though smile.gif

Spigola MTOs are not in fact `fully` made to order like St.C or other so called `pattern-order` shoes in Japan. They allow very limited pattern/last adjustment. Quality-wise, I agree that Spigola has a little edge over St.C.. Aside from the sole, Spigola MTO shoes are made alongside the bespoke orders by Koji and his small team at his Kobe studio.

If anything, I think a hypothetical Japanese will choose St.C primarily for the styles they offer. I got to see them close, and I really dig them. Feels really distinctive. I`m sure a lot of Japanese like them too.
post #2335 of 2861
Nutcracker, just out of curiosity, what are the prices like for the RTW StC at Trading Post? Just wondering what the prices comparisons are to the States and many other countries ($1,600 RTW and $1,800 Customized)
post #2336 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezlau View Post

Nutcracker, just out of curiosity, what are the prices like for the RTW StC at Trading Post? Just wondering what the prices comparisons are to the States and many other countries ($1,600 RTW and $1,800 Customized)

Hmmm... It doesn`t say on their website, so I may have to check their store out one day. I`ll let you know then. Mr. Carr is charging $2200 direct, so I assume it costs more than that.

During the Winter sale, Trading Post in Ginza had quite a few RTW St.C for sale at 80K~90K or so.
post #2337 of 2861

Does anyone have an idea how I could find out which leather has been used for this wonderful pair: http://theshoesrealist.tumblr.com/post/44295066095/spigola-mto-baby-calf-full-brogue-oxford-i-love ?

I.e. which tannery it was sourced from and also the name of the colour.

Many thanks in advance!

post #2338 of 2861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post


Hmmm... It doesn`t say on their website, so I may have to check their store out one day. I`ll let you know then. Mr. Carr is charging $2200 direct, so I assume it costs more than that.

During the Winter sale, Trading Post in Ginza had quite a few RTW St.C for sale at 80K~90K or so.

 

I would imagine every price tag gets bigger in Japan.

post #2339 of 2861

Hello to all Japanese shoe lovers. Today,  I would like to share photos of TRIAL shoes of Marquees.  I took a plunge last summer and commissioned a pair when I had a chance to visit their Tokyo workshop. 

 

This pair is for fitting check only.  Material, finish and other details are different from final products. 

Kawaguchi-san told me shape of toe area would be different too.   I am looking forward seeing them in March to discuss the fit and design in detail.

 

I need to start trying them on to tell as much as feed back at the meeting.  They are really nice people and passionate about shoes.

 

 

 

 

 

post #2340 of 2861
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Hello to all Japanese shoe lovers. Today,  I would like to share photos of TRIAL shoes of Marquees.  I took a plunge last summer and commissioned a pair when I had a chance to visit their Tokyo workshop. 

This pair is for fitting check only.  Material, finish and other details are different from final products. 
Kawaguchi-san told me shape of toe area would be different too.   I am looking forward seeing them in March to discuss the fit and design in detail.

I need to start trying them on to tell as much as feed back at the meeting.  They are really nice people and passionate about shoes.















Fantastic!! Break them in well!!! fing02[1].gif

Are they going to be an austerity wingtip? or will you have broguing/medalion?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread