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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread - Page 16

post #226 of 2750
Thread Starter 
o.e. by Egawa Osamu: Full handmade MTO shoes by the former partner at Guild of Crafts.




Monkstraps with shoelaces. Adjusting tightness has never been easier



Wholecuts with slits. Makes me wanna smile....



Boots styled for an Edwardian gentleman
post #227 of 2750
I don't know about the rest of you but I reckon this thread has sucked the shoe porn oxygen totally out of the footwear threads.

Hence the name NUTCRACKER I suppose....nod[1].gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovelobbs View Post

Excuse my ignorance - never heard or seen of RTW Florsheim shoe in real life....

Who are they comparable to English makers?

Isshi could chime in here with a pair of vintage Florsheims that are the best shoes in his collection (he reckons) and that is really saying something.
post #228 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Last making process:

Lasts are made completely from scratch, not from a base last or a rough turned stock. Instead, resin casts are made from plaster molds of the client's feet, and shaped accordingly.


Making of a plaster mold


The completed mold. Resin are poured into this.


Perfect foot imprints in cast foam resin.


The cast imprints are shaped, based on his medical/orthopedic knowledge and an aesthetic sense honed at Bemer's workshop


Custom orthopedic insoles are made for those who require.

When I had my orthotics made I did a similar thing except that the plaster wrapping they use in Australia returns a full plaster cast of the foot - not a hollow imprint that is then filled with resin. Well at least that was what I thought. I have wondered whether the hard plaster cast could be then used as a model for MTO but obviously you need resin to create a mould that can be shaped exactly to the shape of the foot for last purposes.

Makes me wonder whether the plaster full cast could be recast in resin?
Edited by meister - 4/13/13 at 6:17pm
post #229 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

I don't know about the rest of you but I reckon this thread has sucked the shoe porn oxygen totally out of the footwear threads.

Hence the name NUTCRACKER I suppose....nod[1].gif

geeez

Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

When I had my orthotics made I did a similar thing except that the plaster wrapping they use in Australia returns a full plaster cast of the foot - not a hollow imprint that is then filled with resin. Well at least that was what I thought. I have wondered whether the hard plaster cast could be then used as a model for MTO but obviously you need resin to create a mould that can be shaped exactly to the shape of the foot for last purposes.

Makes me wonder whether the plaster full cast could be recast in resin?

Are you thinking of making several sets (copies) of your own personal last, and use them to order MTO from various makers?

The resin lasts made by Atsuta are lighter than wood or plastic ones, but he says they have no problem in rigidity/hardness. They could be used for subsequent orders (unless you want a new shape).
btw Atsuta charges ¥30,000 for making the last.
post #230 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

There's already machines/software that does exactly what you said and more.  Except not at a consumer/retail level.

the software included dynamic stress analysis or just 3d model of the foot
post #231 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Shoecare Tansu "Getabako" by Entoan

Not exactly an Ephtee, but nevertheless a neat solution. I saw an actual one, I think they were MTO to your specification.

I remember someone making an Ephtee style leather trunk, but this may be a more doable project for those weekend woodworkers out there






Edited by nutcracker - 4/14/13 at 6:48am
post #232 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Regal makes dress shoes at different price points, and yes I find the styling and quality questionable even in their mid-range shoes.

But they do offer solid, classic styled dress shoes at a higher price point. Regal Tokyo in Ginza offers them, along with a MTO and a Bespoke service.
Regal also has a high-end line (split into a separate brand) called Shetland Fox. Their boutique is in Hibiya, but also available in department stores like Isetan.

I was not aware that Shetland Fox was made by Regal, but in my opinion their Regal branded shoes at any price point are just riding on their former reputation.

P.S. nutcracker can you recommend a good repair shop in Tokyo?
post #233 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

I don't know about the rest of you but I reckon this thread has sucked the shoe porn oxygen totally out of the footwear threads.

Hence the name NUTCRACKER I suppose....nod[1].gif
Isshi could chime in here with a pair of vintage Florsheims that are the best shoes in his collection (he reckons) and that is really saying something.

Vintage being the operative word.
post #234 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

I was not aware that Shetland Fox was made by Regal, but in my opinion their Regal branded shoes at any price point are just riding on their former reputation.

P.S. nutcracker can you recommend a good repair shop in Tokyo?

Hi Fang,

Pretty much all reputable repair shops offer similar basic service (repair and shoeshine). Some offer specialised services like recoloring

Union Works in Ginza and Naka-meguro area are probably the best known. They can even rebottom Bespoke shoes (handsewn of course)
Brass is excellent if you live towards Setagaya area
Rifare in Ebisu is also very reputable. I used to live nearby, and frequently visited them to chat. However, I find their toe-steel jobs a lil shoddy. They also operate the shoe repair booth at Shibuya Seibu Dept. store.
BALL Works in Ginza is top notch but expensive. They're really good at re-coloring and crack-repairs.

If you want English service, Spica in Azabu-juban specialises in taking foreign clients living nearby.

For shoeshine, Brift H in Aoyama is the king. Hasegawa san is well known from his youtube clip. Shoeshine Walts in Akihabara is operated by Maestro Matsumuro, you can visit maid cafe's or massages while you're waiting.lol8[1].gif
Shoeshine TOKYO in Shinbashi is also good. If you're lucky, you can have 'Shoeshiner Ken` work his magic

BUT if you're just looking for a good, fast repair job, my personal favorite is RESH, they operate shoe repair salons at Mitsukoshi Ginza and Nihonbashi, of all places. lol8[1].gif I find their service very clean and very fast.

hope I didn't confuse you. Let me know if you're looking for some specialised service. I can recommend specific stores for you smile.gif
post #235 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

Hi Fang,

Pretty much all reputable repair shops offer similar basic service (repair and shoeshine). Some offer specialised services like recoloring

Union Works in Ginza and Naka-meguro area are probably the best known. They can even rebottom Bespoke shoes (handsewn of course)
Brass is excellent if you live towards Setagaya area
Rifare in Ebisu is also very reputable. I used to live nearby, and frequently visited them to chat. However, I find their toe-steel jobs a lil shoddy. They also operate the shoe repair booth at Shibuya Seibu Dept. store.
BALL Works in Ginza is top notch but expensive. They're really good at re-coloring and crack-repairs.

If you want English service, Spica in Azabu-juban specialises in taking foreign clients living nearby.

For shoeshine, Brift H in Aoyama is the king. Hasegawa san is well known from his youtube clip. Shoeshine Walts in Akihabara is operated by Maestro Matsumuro, you can visit maid cafe's or massages while you're waiting.lol8[1].gif
Shoeshine TOKYO in Shinbashi is also good. If you're lucky, you can have 'Shoeshiner Ken` work his magic

BUT if you're just looking for a good, fast repair job, my personal favorite is RESH, they operate shoe repair salons at Mitsukoshi Ginza and Nihonbashi, of all places. lol8[1].gif I find their service very clean and very fast.

hope I didn't confuse you. Let me know if you're looking for some specialised service. I can recommend specific stores for you smile.gif

Thanks a lot, you are definitely the shoe man of the moment. Are you Japanese?
post #236 of 2750
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

Thanks a lot, you are definitely the shoe man of the moment. Are you Japanese?

haha I just know what's going on in my neck of the woods. and yes I am, but I'm also part Taiwanese. Let me know if you're looking for repair shops in Taipei lol8[1].gif
post #237 of 2750
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

haha I just know what's going on in my neck of the woods. and yes I am, but I'm also part Taiwanese. Let me know if you're looking for repair shops in Taipei lol8[1].gif

Cheers
post #238 of 2750
Thread Starter 
SAION MTO and Bespoke Shoes

Had a chance to stroll around Ginza this weekend. I decided to drop by SAION and managed to snap a few photos of their bespoke and MTO shoes (with permission of course). Enjoy the pics!!



The MTO samples cabinet.


I think a number of you were interested in Saion MTO (Semi-Bespoke). They start from ¥126,000 (incl. tax) That is around $1280 in today's exchange. Lasts are customisable. Shoes are hand lasted and handsewn welted. Soles are machine stitched, the so called "9/10 handmade method".


Saion MTO. Very sleek profile.


Facing front.


Bevelled waist in burgundy. Very nice


Saion buckles MTO


In smart round toe.


Fiddle back waists cost a bit more since the soles have to be hand stitched (instead of machine). They really look like bespoke.


Other MTO samples


Boots look nice too!


The cabinet showcasing the ¥39,900 MTO shoes w/McKay construction. Limited to 6 models with 2 lasts to choose, but infinite leather combinations for no additional cost.


Saion Bespoke Sample. WOW! to the shape


Handsome face.


In tints of green


Beautiful sole. Not surprised by now.


Saion Bespoke sample. Black saddle.
Edited by nutcracker - 4/14/13 at 7:01am
post #239 of 2750
Those Saion shoes are really nice. My god.
post #240 of 2750
Ugolini-esque.
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